Hi,
I recently changed the brakes on my 94 Mustang GT. The problem is that it keeps making these %26quot;clunk%26quot; noises when I%26#039;m about to brake, or when I brake, or sometimes after I break. These noises have been going on for a while and I thought changing the brakes would solve the problem. What could it be? Thanks in advance!|||1 ball joints
2 shock/strut /or its mount
3 universal joint [driveshaft]
4 [anti] sway bar bushings
front end is 15 yrs old...how much has been replaced???|||Clunks like this usually caused by worn U-Joints or differential. I%26#039;d check the U-joints first. They are easiest to check and cheapest to fix. You could probably just change them now and see if the noise goes away. If not, at least you have replaced 14 year old %26quot;wear%26quot; parts that probably needed it anyway.|||Brakes do not clunk. It could be a broken suspension piece, it could be a universal joint. If it were me, I%26#039;d be in my mechanics face..nicely but in his face anyway. If you had it done in a big box store like Walmart Automotive..good luck
If you said..my car clunks, fix it that%26#039;s one thing. If you said fix my brakes, that is another. Either way you may have a serious situation that needs fixing|||1 you want to make sure all of the clips for the pads are on then you want to make sure the bolt sleeves are in good condition. and then if that does not work it maybe your ABS that is making the problem happen
Saturday, June 4, 2011
Changing the rear brakes on my 97 Sentra. How do I get the star adjuster to spin out?
I guess I%26#039;m just stuck on stupid cuz I%26#039;ve done this cars brakes before but I can%26#039;t get the adjuster to spin out. Got to go to work in the morning so can you help?|||Not sure what you%26#039;r asking. You have to adjust the self adjusters all the way in to install the brake shoes. Then you turn the star out with a screwdriver until the shoes are close to the brake drum. Then you drive backwards, hitting the brakes every few feet until it feels right and the handbrake is correct. And yes, you can adjust the self adjusters by applying the handbrake as you go backwards slowly.
How do you change the front brakes on a car?
i bought brakes for my car, i cant find anyone to do it for me and i dont have the money to pay someone to do it for me. so im going to have to try, but i have no idea how. what tools are needed? i have a 91 mercury sable gs 3.0 engine. v6.|||brakes are not something you %26quot;try%26quot;. It%26#039;s the last thing in the world you want to do wrong on your car. I could tell you right now how to do it but if you have never worked on cars before or have no tools, its not worth it. I%26#039;d say to jack up your car and take the front wheels off, if you can do that then go ahead with the brake job.
Is it bad to turn the wheel while changing brakes?
Once I get the side that needs changed up on a jack I find it%26#039;s easier to work on the brakes if I then turn the steering wheel so that the caliper is turned towards me. Is it bad for the other wheel to be turned while the car is jacked up? Should I turn the wheels before I jack the car up? Or should I just leave it straight, crawl into the well and work in the dark?|||its not bad as long as it doest fall off the jack. the way i do it, is i throw the tire up under the frame, if it falls the tire will catch it. i know what you mean, you can get to the bolts better, if the caliper is pointed towards you.|||nope. I would crank the key and turn the steering wheel all the way and turn the key back to lock the wheel right there.|||Nope.
Just like you I find it easier if I turn the wheel during a brake job. I%26#039;ve also seen mechanics do the same.
Good Luck...|||It doesn%26#039;t hurt anything at all. By all means get at least a pair of quality jack stands to support your vehicle. Never work on it with just a jack supporting it or tires or especially cinder blocks or whatever else.|||That%26#039;s not a problem. What you need to be aware of is pressing the brake pedal while you have the caliper off the car or the brake drum off the car. You will destroy your brakes if you press the pedal.|||you can turn the wheel all you want and it won%26#039;t hurt a thing on the brakes.
Just like you I find it easier if I turn the wheel during a brake job. I%26#039;ve also seen mechanics do the same.
Good Luck...|||It doesn%26#039;t hurt anything at all. By all means get at least a pair of quality jack stands to support your vehicle. Never work on it with just a jack supporting it or tires or especially cinder blocks or whatever else.|||That%26#039;s not a problem. What you need to be aware of is pressing the brake pedal while you have the caliper off the car or the brake drum off the car. You will destroy your brakes if you press the pedal.|||you can turn the wheel all you want and it won%26#039;t hurt a thing on the brakes.
When i wash my car, the rear brakes lock up. The wheel starts to drag and make a loud noise when it unlock?
I have reverse and drive for it to unlock though.
I have tried machining the hub, change the brakes shoes and the cable line. Last night i washed the car but didnt use the park brake. It didnt lock so im wondering if its the rubber boot holding the cable line
What do you all think?|||I think you should have a mechanic work on your car. A rubber boot won%26#039;t keep brakes on. If the brakes work OK, I%26#039;d just wash the car with it in Park or 1st gear if it%26#039;s a manual transmission.
You may have a rusty pivot pin on the trailing brake shoe lever that the emergency brake cable pulls to set the emergency/parking brake.
It%26#039;s odd that it only happens when you wash the car unless that%26#039;s the only time you use the brake.|||Lube all the moving parts from the emergency brake to the rear beakes. Inclusing cable, springs, pivot points.
I had to take apart and lube the cable and pivot parts on my wifes honda once , because it stuck. I fixed it. Clean and lube.
That fixes most things. Clean and lube.|||Stop using the parking brake when you wash the car. It is probably a bad return spring.|||In my experience if you leave the parking brake on for awhile the brake tends to stick.|||check your wheel bearings sounds like they have gone.
I have tried machining the hub, change the brakes shoes and the cable line. Last night i washed the car but didnt use the park brake. It didnt lock so im wondering if its the rubber boot holding the cable line
What do you all think?|||I think you should have a mechanic work on your car. A rubber boot won%26#039;t keep brakes on. If the brakes work OK, I%26#039;d just wash the car with it in Park or 1st gear if it%26#039;s a manual transmission.
You may have a rusty pivot pin on the trailing brake shoe lever that the emergency brake cable pulls to set the emergency/parking brake.
It%26#039;s odd that it only happens when you wash the car unless that%26#039;s the only time you use the brake.|||Lube all the moving parts from the emergency brake to the rear beakes. Inclusing cable, springs, pivot points.
I had to take apart and lube the cable and pivot parts on my wifes honda once , because it stuck. I fixed it. Clean and lube.
That fixes most things. Clean and lube.|||Stop using the parking brake when you wash the car. It is probably a bad return spring.|||In my experience if you leave the parking brake on for awhile the brake tends to stick.|||check your wheel bearings sounds like they have gone.
How do I change the brakes on my car?
Thank you for looking. I own a 2006 Infiniti M35, and wish to change the brakes. How do I start off? I really wish to be able to learn all this so I can work on my vehicle, and not have to take it to the shop every time. Is it a matter of just taking the wheels off, and replacing the pads? Thanks a lot|||something debby didn%26#039;t mention,lock your car doors so your inexperienced friends don%26#039;t come over and put their foot on the brake pedal while the calipers are unbolted and off the rotor|||It%26#039;s pretty much that simple but when you go buy the brake pads buy a manual and follow the instructions|||It%26#039;s not hard at all but do yourself a favor and get your self a manual for it first, even if it is not available over the counter at shops you can get them from the manufacturer of your vehicle, they are more expensive but they have more detail and you will be able to do more repairs to your car thus saving even more money on repairs, i have always done it this way, and when you do change the pads do one side at a time so you know where everything goes when finished.|||Debby you have no clue what you are talking about on newer cars you have to clamp off brake hose and open bleeder screw then depress the piston or risk screwing up the anti lock part of the system they make a special tool to clamp the hose don%26#039;t use vise grips J.J take a class or take it to a shop cars are not as simple as they were 25 years ago i have been a mechanic for 27 years whats going to happen is you will do it yourself then have to pay more to fix it right when you take it to the shop I%26#039;ve seen it happen more times then i can count
Will all the stop and go traffic hurt my car brakes?
I have been driving a longer route (15 miles) to take my kids to school instead of the the shorter route (10 miles) because the short route has 10 stop signs. I heard that stop and go will hurt my brakes. But with the skyrocketing gas price, I would like to take the shorter route with all the stop signs. I would like to know if this equates to more frequent brake pad change, therefore costing me more in the long run?|||Brakes (like shoes and tires) are design to wear down with use. But they are ALSO design to be replaced - easily. Unlike other parts they replace fairly easily and with predictable cost.
Call around for local brake repair cost. Factor that into your cost of gas saved.
Good Luck.
P.S. shorter routed does NOT mean less gas if you have more stop and go.|||Yes.|||The more you use your breaks the faster they%26#039;ll wear down. I think that%26#039;s pretty obvious.|||Stop-and Go driving will hurt your brakes and gas mileage in the long run. It is always better to find a freeway the same route your going. Eventually, it will hurt them, but not really fast unless you slam your brakes all the time.|||The thing that %26quot;hurts your brakes%26quot; is when you let the pads wear down so far that they %26quot;score%26quot; the rotors and ruin them. Then you have to pay for two new rotors as well. Get the brakes checked for wear when your owner%26#039;s manual says to and you%26#039;ll be fine in my opinion.|||not hurt but eventually they wear out depending on how much you use them. be sure to have them checked once in a while.|||The more you use them, the faster they wear out. but, brake pads are cheap.
I wouldnt worry about it, just make sure you get the pds changed when thier worn out./|||im doin it the hard way!...the long way cost about 60 cents a day more,,,times 5 day weed....= 4 dollars a week....= 16 a month....new brakes cost 150 to 200 for front and same for rear....id say go the long way,,,|||the answer is yes, but what you describe is negligible. I have changed brakes for my mail lady over the years. That is what I call excess stop and go driving. Nothing in my driving experience stopping and starting could even match what this lady did. I wouldn%26#039;t worry about the brakes, you%26#039;ll still change them on schedule.
Call around for local brake repair cost. Factor that into your cost of gas saved.
Good Luck.
P.S. shorter routed does NOT mean less gas if you have more stop and go.|||Yes.|||The more you use your breaks the faster they%26#039;ll wear down. I think that%26#039;s pretty obvious.|||Stop-and Go driving will hurt your brakes and gas mileage in the long run. It is always better to find a freeway the same route your going. Eventually, it will hurt them, but not really fast unless you slam your brakes all the time.|||The thing that %26quot;hurts your brakes%26quot; is when you let the pads wear down so far that they %26quot;score%26quot; the rotors and ruin them. Then you have to pay for two new rotors as well. Get the brakes checked for wear when your owner%26#039;s manual says to and you%26#039;ll be fine in my opinion.|||not hurt but eventually they wear out depending on how much you use them. be sure to have them checked once in a while.|||The more you use them, the faster they wear out. but, brake pads are cheap.
I wouldnt worry about it, just make sure you get the pds changed when thier worn out./|||im doin it the hard way!...the long way cost about 60 cents a day more,,,times 5 day weed....= 4 dollars a week....= 16 a month....new brakes cost 150 to 200 for front and same for rear....id say go the long way,,,|||the answer is yes, but what you describe is negligible. I have changed brakes for my mail lady over the years. That is what I call excess stop and go driving. Nothing in my driving experience stopping and starting could even match what this lady did. I wouldn%26#039;t worry about the brakes, you%26#039;ll still change them on schedule.
How to change car brake light bulb in a citroen?
I have changed other cars brake lights but this one is a nightmare. cant get into the bloody thing!!! Any help..|||inside the boot has a panel. open the panel and there should be a metal clip at the bottom. push the clip with a screwdriver, it can be quite tough, once the clip is off then the whole light should come away from the car. once off this gives you the access to the bulbs in the light. good luck.|||Look in the car manual|||Le sanje dans l%26#039;abre.|||Every car is different. Don%26#039;t know what yours is, do I?|||normally they car brakes light bulbs are located in the boot under a pull down or unscrew panel from there you should be able to see the bulbs and therefore change it i hope this helps
When should you change your brakes on your car?
My co-worker told me by looking at my brakes that they need to be replaced, is that true? He told me he would do it. I just didnt think I should get them replaced because they haven%26#039;t caused me any problems.|||Yes, by looking at them you can tell when they need to be replaced, they will be fine until the pad is worn away then the metal starts grinding on the rotor then you might have to replace the rotor.... so it is better to replace the pads when they get low.|||I usually wait till I hear them make noise,
they have feelers that will alarm you when they need
replacing.|||Sometimes you can look at the brakes without taking them apart, but that%26#039;s only on disc brakes. Older cars do not have disc brakes and many cars only have disc brakes on the front only.
Most any car dealer would look at them and let you know for sure. Many times they can tell you about when you should by the number of miles, but that%26#039;s not always true. I sure would not let just anyone put brakes on for you. They are far too important for a %26quot;co-worker%26quot; to mess with.|||If a man offers to replace your brakes it is not because they are not worn out. Trust him. Guy%26#039;s tend to know this stuff. Then bring it to a brake masters to make sure he did it right.|||it is good for your car and if you don%26#039;t want accidents|||Your brakes are generally checked whenever you have your car inspected, but, he may speaking from experience. Could it hurt to have it looked at? Better safe than sorry.|||take your car for a general ride say about 10-20 miles per hour and shut off your radio, roll down your window ,stick your head out the window and if you can hear a screach, if you hear a screach either stopping or going- it%26#039;s a good signal you need your brakes replaced ASAP. DON%26quot;T wait until you have problems, that could be dangerous,|||If they are disc brakes like on the front of most cars there is a little notch that you can see. If you there is hardly any of the notch left then that maybe why he said that. If you have any squealing or grinding you should change them. If not you can damage the rotors and that will cost even more than a brake job. Good luck|||if the pads are worn low they need replacing
you don%26#039;t wait til there is trouble with the brakes. You replace them before the trouble begins otherwise it may cost you more than just pads.let your friend fix them for you soon|||I just wait till they start squeking, but thats just me, can I have ten points please?!|||Brakes have brake shoes and rotors. Brakes should be replaced when they start squealing because they are getting worn down to the point the indicator squeals. When these brakes are replaced, the rotors are also checked. Rotors can be reground several times before they need replacement. Rotors have to be smooth and they need ground down to become smooth.
Brakes can be changed by a shop or by a friend who knows how to put on new brakes. Buying them at an automotive stores is much less expensive than having brakes replaced by a shop. The new brakes may squeak or squeal for a couple of weeks, but that sound goes away and it is nothing to worry about.|||Rule of thumb is 30,000 miles front and 60,000 mile rear but that can vary by car and driver. Take it to a shop, get them looked at. If they need to be replaced take your co-worker up on the offer.|||when the brakes are wear out ,they have some metallic %26quot;slatches%26quot; that make lot of noise (always)without even pushing the brake pedal.
there is no way You co-worker could say You need brakes,just by looking the external side of the wheels.
when ready for brakes ,take to a real mechanic ,not a dump a...... that may killl You.
brakes are not a yoke is Your life!!!|||Yeah, you can visually inspect the pads on disc brakes. But brakes on newer cars have squealers that squeal when the brakes need to be replaced. You%26#039;ll have to listen carefully at first. The squeal becomes louder as time progresses. If too much time has passed, then the brake light will come on, and you%26#039;ll have metal-to-metal contact. If there%26#039;s too much contact, then the rotors will need to be replaced also. So listen carefully for a slight squeal while you drive. Have the brakes checked at the first sign of squealing. If you let your co-worker install the pads, make sure he hand torques the lug nuts with a torque wrench when putting the wheels back on, especially if you have an Asian car. And make sure he puts brake lubricant on the shims if the pads have them. The rotors have to be checked also. If they%26#039;re warped and not replaced or machined, then the new pads will wear very quickly.|||I prefere to uso one year brakes not life time its easier on your rotors and its a good b-day gift to myself. Are you sure he did not want you to come over to his house to get your rotors turned.
they have feelers that will alarm you when they need
replacing.|||Sometimes you can look at the brakes without taking them apart, but that%26#039;s only on disc brakes. Older cars do not have disc brakes and many cars only have disc brakes on the front only.
Most any car dealer would look at them and let you know for sure. Many times they can tell you about when you should by the number of miles, but that%26#039;s not always true. I sure would not let just anyone put brakes on for you. They are far too important for a %26quot;co-worker%26quot; to mess with.|||If a man offers to replace your brakes it is not because they are not worn out. Trust him. Guy%26#039;s tend to know this stuff. Then bring it to a brake masters to make sure he did it right.|||it is good for your car and if you don%26#039;t want accidents|||Your brakes are generally checked whenever you have your car inspected, but, he may speaking from experience. Could it hurt to have it looked at? Better safe than sorry.|||take your car for a general ride say about 10-20 miles per hour and shut off your radio, roll down your window ,stick your head out the window and if you can hear a screach, if you hear a screach either stopping or going- it%26#039;s a good signal you need your brakes replaced ASAP. DON%26quot;T wait until you have problems, that could be dangerous,|||If they are disc brakes like on the front of most cars there is a little notch that you can see. If you there is hardly any of the notch left then that maybe why he said that. If you have any squealing or grinding you should change them. If not you can damage the rotors and that will cost even more than a brake job. Good luck|||if the pads are worn low they need replacing
you don%26#039;t wait til there is trouble with the brakes. You replace them before the trouble begins otherwise it may cost you more than just pads.let your friend fix them for you soon|||I just wait till they start squeking, but thats just me, can I have ten points please?!|||Brakes have brake shoes and rotors. Brakes should be replaced when they start squealing because they are getting worn down to the point the indicator squeals. When these brakes are replaced, the rotors are also checked. Rotors can be reground several times before they need replacement. Rotors have to be smooth and they need ground down to become smooth.
Brakes can be changed by a shop or by a friend who knows how to put on new brakes. Buying them at an automotive stores is much less expensive than having brakes replaced by a shop. The new brakes may squeak or squeal for a couple of weeks, but that sound goes away and it is nothing to worry about.|||Rule of thumb is 30,000 miles front and 60,000 mile rear but that can vary by car and driver. Take it to a shop, get them looked at. If they need to be replaced take your co-worker up on the offer.|||when the brakes are wear out ,they have some metallic %26quot;slatches%26quot; that make lot of noise (always)without even pushing the brake pedal.
there is no way You co-worker could say You need brakes,just by looking the external side of the wheels.
when ready for brakes ,take to a real mechanic ,not a dump a...... that may killl You.
brakes are not a yoke is Your life!!!|||Yeah, you can visually inspect the pads on disc brakes. But brakes on newer cars have squealers that squeal when the brakes need to be replaced. You%26#039;ll have to listen carefully at first. The squeal becomes louder as time progresses. If too much time has passed, then the brake light will come on, and you%26#039;ll have metal-to-metal contact. If there%26#039;s too much contact, then the rotors will need to be replaced also. So listen carefully for a slight squeal while you drive. Have the brakes checked at the first sign of squealing. If you let your co-worker install the pads, make sure he hand torques the lug nuts with a torque wrench when putting the wheels back on, especially if you have an Asian car. And make sure he puts brake lubricant on the shims if the pads have them. The rotors have to be checked also. If they%26#039;re warped and not replaced or machined, then the new pads will wear very quickly.|||I prefere to uso one year brakes not life time its easier on your rotors and its a good b-day gift to myself. Are you sure he did not want you to come over to his house to get your rotors turned.
Has anyone ever heard of car brakes making a shafty sort of noise after driving in dirty water.? or should i?
have the brakes checked (I will) someone told me this could very well be the cause of my brakes sounding like sand paper rubbing together. The kicker is 6hrs latter i went outside just to look and see if i noticed any changes to the car from the outside of the tire and test drive it again and guess what the noise was gone.so is this mimiking the need for brake repair or dirty water can cause brakes can make noise other than the loud squeky noise.|||The materials used in both brake pads and rotors are very susceptible to making noise. When the brakes are hot and you hit a puddle it can cause the pads to become hard, and the rotors to get a %26quot;glaze%26quot; over them. Scuffing the pads and rotors with a light sanding wheel may help. Inexpensive brake pads are always going to make noise also. Also high metal content pads, such as the ones on police cars, can make a lot of noise when hot.
How can i change my brakes?
my cars brakes are beyond bad. the brake light comes on with this red exclamation point every now and then. my boyfriend seems busy and i dont like to keep asking him to do things. i am pretty handy with cars(changing oil, filters, etc) and i wanted to know if it was hard work to do brake work. i DO NOT trust mechanincs, nor do i feel like paying the extra labor rate to have them do it for me. How can i do this?|||depending on what kind of car and what set of brakes you are talking bout it is either simply to lil complicated if it is front disc brakes the procedure is simply jack up car remove front tire then you should see your caliper first thing i do is loosen up bleeder screw to make sure it turns then tighten it up do not pump brakes while bleeder screw is open then there are most likely bolts that hold the caliper on remove them and take the caliper off the rotor there is a hoses attached to the caliper do not take this off then depending on type of vehicle the pads will either be on the calipe or on a bracket note which is inside on and which is outside one take the inside one and use a c-clamp to compress the piston in the caliper open the bleeder screw once you have the c-clamp against the piston with the onld brake pad as a spacer to protect the piston and tighten the c-clamp untill the piston is fully seated and retighten the bleeder screw put new pads on the same way the old pads were on and reassembly using a little lithuim grease on contact points besure not to get any grease on oyur rotor and inspect the rotor for wear (grooves,pits or deep cracks) the repeat process on other wheel also take a minute and inspect your break hoses for anycracking if there are you will need to replace them
if you are talking bout rear brakes then it depends if it is rear dic or drum brakes rear disc breaks are basically the same as front except it requires a special tool to reseat the reat caliper piston the easiest way to tell is if you parking break cable is hooked up to your rear caliper then you need the tool
rear drum breaks are lil complicated and unless you have doon them befor would suggest you have some one who has there to help you do them|||uhhh take them off didididididididid......|||what car you working with . Email me ill send you info you need step by step.
Good Luck|||my best advice to you is to go to autozone etc. get the repair manual for youre car and follow the instructions. because not all cars are the same and each book is vehicle specific. they are around $15 and are worth the investment if you plan on keeping the car and tackling other simple maintenance projects in the future. good luck|||First, are you willing to trust your own work when it comes to the safety of the people you carry and the rest of the motoring public. If the answer is yes, then the answer is also yes, it is hard work if you do not have the right tools to do the job right. You may need to have the rotors turned and that you cannot do. Best yet is that it is dirty work, dirtier than oil changes etc. Let the professionals do it and have piece of mind that if anything goes wrong, you have a warranty and have grounds for legal action. If you do it, you have satisfaction until it fails and you are sued. You chose your poison....Good luck|||are they disk or drum, both are easy, disk, remove wheel, remove caliper, open top of brake fluid resivoir, replace pads and put caliper back on, put the wheel back on, put the top back on resivior, dont drive away till you make sure they are seated, and no air is in them, you may have to bleed them, or add more fluid. you can also go get a chiltons manual from the library for your car, that will help.|||More info required....make %26amp; model, front or rear brakes, are there any abnornal noises when applying brakes? is there any loss off brake fluid?|||i dont know|||where do you live mayby i could come and do them for you i live in kansas city
if you are talking bout rear brakes then it depends if it is rear dic or drum brakes rear disc breaks are basically the same as front except it requires a special tool to reseat the reat caliper piston the easiest way to tell is if you parking break cable is hooked up to your rear caliper then you need the tool
rear drum breaks are lil complicated and unless you have doon them befor would suggest you have some one who has there to help you do them|||uhhh take them off didididididididid......|||what car you working with . Email me ill send you info you need step by step.
Good Luck|||my best advice to you is to go to autozone etc. get the repair manual for youre car and follow the instructions. because not all cars are the same and each book is vehicle specific. they are around $15 and are worth the investment if you plan on keeping the car and tackling other simple maintenance projects in the future. good luck|||First, are you willing to trust your own work when it comes to the safety of the people you carry and the rest of the motoring public. If the answer is yes, then the answer is also yes, it is hard work if you do not have the right tools to do the job right. You may need to have the rotors turned and that you cannot do. Best yet is that it is dirty work, dirtier than oil changes etc. Let the professionals do it and have piece of mind that if anything goes wrong, you have a warranty and have grounds for legal action. If you do it, you have satisfaction until it fails and you are sued. You chose your poison....Good luck|||are they disk or drum, both are easy, disk, remove wheel, remove caliper, open top of brake fluid resivoir, replace pads and put caliper back on, put the wheel back on, put the top back on resivior, dont drive away till you make sure they are seated, and no air is in them, you may have to bleed them, or add more fluid. you can also go get a chiltons manual from the library for your car, that will help.|||More info required....make %26amp; model, front or rear brakes, are there any abnornal noises when applying brakes? is there any loss off brake fluid?|||i dont know|||where do you live mayby i could come and do them for you i live in kansas city
I want to change the brakes for my car by myself Where can I rent tools for that?
I have a Toyota Camery 1991
If I want to change brakes for 4 wheels ,how much should the reasonable quote be?
and where can I rent tools if I want to do it by myself?|||auto zone has free tool rental. you pay the price of the tool (just incase you run off with it) then you just return it to get your money.|||Here in Southern California we have Autozone stores and they loan you tools. Not sure if they have those were you live. Ask you local auto store if thye offer anything similar.|||the new pads should be around $35.00... the tool rental should be around $65.00. You can rent them at Autozone.|||carefull here neil you sound as if you dont have much experience here,doing brakes yourself is ok but try and get someone with a bit of experience to help you if you mess up here your talking about your life and meybe other peoples as well.different garages will give you different quotes, and you could probably but the tools you need as cheep as renting them, and you could use them again so good luck hope this helps
If I want to change brakes for 4 wheels ,how much should the reasonable quote be?
and where can I rent tools if I want to do it by myself?|||auto zone has free tool rental. you pay the price of the tool (just incase you run off with it) then you just return it to get your money.|||Here in Southern California we have Autozone stores and they loan you tools. Not sure if they have those were you live. Ask you local auto store if thye offer anything similar.|||the new pads should be around $35.00... the tool rental should be around $65.00. You can rent them at Autozone.|||carefull here neil you sound as if you dont have much experience here,doing brakes yourself is ok but try and get someone with a bit of experience to help you if you mess up here your talking about your life and meybe other peoples as well.different garages will give you different quotes, and you could probably but the tools you need as cheep as renting them, and you could use them again so good luck hope this helps
I just had the front brakes of my car changed, and it still makes a screeching sound when i brake. help?
Car is 2005 Toyota Corolla
I also had the rear brakes adjusted.|||The sound you are hearing, is it different from the sound before? Like most foreign cars they use an organic brake pad. When dust builds up they tend to be noisy. If the noise becomes unbearable take it back to the dealer or who ever did the break job and have them check the pads for contamination. Sometimes you will get grease or oil on the pads. The pads absorb the oil or grease and will cause a squeaking screeching sounds that (depending on how bad the contamination is) will rattle your teeth. Hope this helps.|||Did you break the new brakes in?
Once new brakes are installed you%26#039;re supposed to take it really easy. You%26#039;ll dammage the new brakes if you do heavy braking after they%26#039;re installed.|||is it a screech or a squeaking..
Major difference..
Screeches are grinding rotos...squeaking isn%26#039;t anything major..should stop by itself.|||Did they cut the rotors? Everytime you replace brakes they need to cut the rotors, call the garage and ask them...|||You may have rotor damage and make sure that the ABS system is adjusted right, Sometimes after a brake job it gets outta wack.
It%26#039;s called having the rotors turned...|||The reason they are making noises is either one or two things your brakes are too tight or because they are new brake pads it takes a day or two for them to ajust.|||If it is squeaking, I would try taking it to a powerwash. It is possibly you have some road grit between your rotors and brakes. Sometimes that grit will cause small grooves to form on your rotors which can cause squeaking as well. In that case, your braking will not be affected, but the squeaking won%26#039;t go away.|||You need to break in the new brakes.
You do that by accelerating and then by pressing at the brakes softly. But don%26#039;t come to a complete stop. unless you have to.
Do that for about 4 to 5 times|||when u change the brake pads, there is a silicon paste that is supposed to be put on the mounting surface. this dampens the vibration when the brakes are applied. if the mounting clips wasnt properly secured to the calipers, it could also cause the brakes to squeal. the brake/caliper assembly shouldnt be able to be moved by hand. if the brake assembly is tight, then its almost even money to say that the shop didnt put the anti-squeal silicon to the back of the brake pads.
btw, new brake pads do not require a %26#039;break in%26#039; per sae, but fresh brake shoes will be pretty touchy for the first 50 to 100 miles.
I also had the rear brakes adjusted.|||The sound you are hearing, is it different from the sound before? Like most foreign cars they use an organic brake pad. When dust builds up they tend to be noisy. If the noise becomes unbearable take it back to the dealer or who ever did the break job and have them check the pads for contamination. Sometimes you will get grease or oil on the pads. The pads absorb the oil or grease and will cause a squeaking screeching sounds that (depending on how bad the contamination is) will rattle your teeth. Hope this helps.|||Did you break the new brakes in?
Once new brakes are installed you%26#039;re supposed to take it really easy. You%26#039;ll dammage the new brakes if you do heavy braking after they%26#039;re installed.|||is it a screech or a squeaking..
Major difference..
Screeches are grinding rotos...squeaking isn%26#039;t anything major..should stop by itself.|||Did they cut the rotors? Everytime you replace brakes they need to cut the rotors, call the garage and ask them...|||You may have rotor damage and make sure that the ABS system is adjusted right, Sometimes after a brake job it gets outta wack.
It%26#039;s called having the rotors turned...|||The reason they are making noises is either one or two things your brakes are too tight or because they are new brake pads it takes a day or two for them to ajust.|||If it is squeaking, I would try taking it to a powerwash. It is possibly you have some road grit between your rotors and brakes. Sometimes that grit will cause small grooves to form on your rotors which can cause squeaking as well. In that case, your braking will not be affected, but the squeaking won%26#039;t go away.|||You need to break in the new brakes.
You do that by accelerating and then by pressing at the brakes softly. But don%26#039;t come to a complete stop. unless you have to.
Do that for about 4 to 5 times|||when u change the brake pads, there is a silicon paste that is supposed to be put on the mounting surface. this dampens the vibration when the brakes are applied. if the mounting clips wasnt properly secured to the calipers, it could also cause the brakes to squeal. the brake/caliper assembly shouldnt be able to be moved by hand. if the brake assembly is tight, then its almost even money to say that the shop didnt put the anti-squeal silicon to the back of the brake pads.
btw, new brake pads do not require a %26#039;break in%26#039; per sae, but fresh brake shoes will be pretty touchy for the first 50 to 100 miles.
My car brakes are schreeching what do I do?
ok my car is making noises whenever i stop or go. i know that there is a brake thing that indicates when you need to change the brakes,but i already changed them and they still make the sound.What do i do now?
i have a mazda 626|||Have your wheel bearings checked. I had brakes put on my Blazer, and they kept squeaking. Took it it back, and it turned out there was some sideways play in the wheel bearings.|||My roommate got his brakes replaced and a couple weeks later they were schreeching again. Go back to the brake shop and tell them what%26#039;s up. You should have some kind of warranty on that.|||it could be brake dust. it will make a noise.
i have a mazda 626|||Have your wheel bearings checked. I had brakes put on my Blazer, and they kept squeaking. Took it it back, and it turned out there was some sideways play in the wheel bearings.|||My roommate got his brakes replaced and a couple weeks later they were schreeching again. Go back to the brake shop and tell them what%26#039;s up. You should have some kind of warranty on that.|||it could be brake dust. it will make a noise.
I want to try changing the 2 serpentine belts on my 2003 Dodge Intrepid.?
The employee at AutoZone says that all I likely have to do is loosen a bolt for the tensioner, take the belt off and put a new one on, then re-tighten the tensioner.
Is that all there is too it? Is is a tight space that I%26#039;ll be working in or should I expect the car to give me some resistance? I%26#039;m pretty handy with tools and working on my car changing brakes and stuff, just so you know my experience level...
Thanks!|||Click below will give you step by step instructions. Good Luck.|||I have never changed a serpentine belt on a 2003 Dodge Intrepid, but I have changed plenty of them on other cars. It might be a little tight but normally it is pretty easy to do. I put a long wrench on the tensioner to pull it back and pull the belt off. route the belt back onto the pulleys the way they came off. There should be a belt routing diagram sticker some where under the hood. Find this sticker before you take the belt off and can%26#039;t figure out how it goes back on. If you can%26#039;t find it take a digital picture of it to make sure you don%26#039;t forget how it goes. Put it back on and wrench the tensioner back to let the belt go back on. That%26#039;s it.|||look on the front of the vehicle under the hood for a diagram of the belt routing before you start this job or it will get real confusing, if its not their go buy a haynes repair manual ,because it has good illustrations of how to do this and many other jobs you might want to do on that car,its not hard to do but most people forget where and how the belt routes and wind up coming on here for answers,and a repair book with pictures beats any answer we can give you,and if your nice to them they might even change it for you for free,good luck and have good new years,and be safe,|||Your vehicle does not have spring loaded tensioner for belt tension but an adjustable pulley as the person from Autozone stated. It%26#039;s a matter of loosing the pulley, removing the belt and re-installing. This task is not difficult and if you are handy with tools (metric) you should have no problems. Good luck|||look on the front of the vehicle under the hood for a diagram of the belt routing before you start this job or it will get real confusing, if its not their go buy a haynes repair manual ,because it has good illustrations of how to do this and many other jobs you might want to do on that car,its not hard to do but most people forget where and how the belt routes and wind up coming on here for answers,and a repair book with pictures beats any answer we can give you,good luck and have good new years,and be safe,|||Check for a belt diagram on the hood before you start. If it has no belt diagram make one yourself. If the rad is very close put a piece of card board between the rad and the belts so you don%26#039;t knock a hole in the rad. Match the new belts with the old ones .
Is that all there is too it? Is is a tight space that I%26#039;ll be working in or should I expect the car to give me some resistance? I%26#039;m pretty handy with tools and working on my car changing brakes and stuff, just so you know my experience level...
Thanks!|||Click below will give you step by step instructions. Good Luck.|||I have never changed a serpentine belt on a 2003 Dodge Intrepid, but I have changed plenty of them on other cars. It might be a little tight but normally it is pretty easy to do. I put a long wrench on the tensioner to pull it back and pull the belt off. route the belt back onto the pulleys the way they came off. There should be a belt routing diagram sticker some where under the hood. Find this sticker before you take the belt off and can%26#039;t figure out how it goes back on. If you can%26#039;t find it take a digital picture of it to make sure you don%26#039;t forget how it goes. Put it back on and wrench the tensioner back to let the belt go back on. That%26#039;s it.|||look on the front of the vehicle under the hood for a diagram of the belt routing before you start this job or it will get real confusing, if its not their go buy a haynes repair manual ,because it has good illustrations of how to do this and many other jobs you might want to do on that car,its not hard to do but most people forget where and how the belt routes and wind up coming on here for answers,and a repair book with pictures beats any answer we can give you,and if your nice to them they might even change it for you for free,good luck and have good new years,and be safe,|||Your vehicle does not have spring loaded tensioner for belt tension but an adjustable pulley as the person from Autozone stated. It%26#039;s a matter of loosing the pulley, removing the belt and re-installing. This task is not difficult and if you are handy with tools (metric) you should have no problems. Good luck|||look on the front of the vehicle under the hood for a diagram of the belt routing before you start this job or it will get real confusing, if its not their go buy a haynes repair manual ,because it has good illustrations of how to do this and many other jobs you might want to do on that car,its not hard to do but most people forget where and how the belt routes and wind up coming on here for answers,and a repair book with pictures beats any answer we can give you,good luck and have good new years,and be safe,|||Check for a belt diagram on the hood before you start. If it has no belt diagram make one yourself. If the rad is very close put a piece of card board between the rad and the belts so you don%26#039;t knock a hole in the rad. Match the new belts with the old ones .
Car brakes getting harder even after changing caliper...?
My brakes got super hard 2 weeks ago and I drove it into a garage to get it fixed. If I remember correctly 鈥?he fixed my caliper and some sort of hose or something. It worked fine when I left.
Last week on the high way (there was traffic) it started getting tighter again but not as much as the first time (the first time the car could come to a complete halt without me touching any pedals or anything). I didn鈥檛 think too much of it since it was a short ride and it wasn鈥檛 as bad. But this morning it started again鈥?br>
I can鈥檛 come to a complete halt without touching the pedals鈥?but If I stop my car completely (let鈥檚 say at a red light) 鈥?I can release the breaks and the car will not move until I press the gas. And that鈥檚 a on a perfectly flat surface.
And if I鈥檓 not mistaken, it ain鈥檛 moving on neutral either鈥?br>
I got screwed at the garage didn鈥檛 I? So what should I do/check?|||I would go get a free brake check at a national chain. Sounds like the rear brakes are adusted way too tight, you have seized calipers, collapsed brake hoses, or a master cylinder problem.|||It%26#039;s possible on an older vehicle for a brake hose to swell internally and when the pedal is pressed, the fluid pressure is trapped inside keeping the brake applied%26gt;
Last week on the high way (there was traffic) it started getting tighter again but not as much as the first time (the first time the car could come to a complete halt without me touching any pedals or anything). I didn鈥檛 think too much of it since it was a short ride and it wasn鈥檛 as bad. But this morning it started again鈥?br>
I can鈥檛 come to a complete halt without touching the pedals鈥?but If I stop my car completely (let鈥檚 say at a red light) 鈥?I can release the breaks and the car will not move until I press the gas. And that鈥檚 a on a perfectly flat surface.
And if I鈥檓 not mistaken, it ain鈥檛 moving on neutral either鈥?br>
I got screwed at the garage didn鈥檛 I? So what should I do/check?|||I would go get a free brake check at a national chain. Sounds like the rear brakes are adusted way too tight, you have seized calipers, collapsed brake hoses, or a master cylinder problem.|||It%26#039;s possible on an older vehicle for a brake hose to swell internally and when the pedal is pressed, the fluid pressure is trapped inside keeping the brake applied%26gt;
Changing brakes on an 89 buick lesabre?
What size star bit do I need to use to change the brakes on this car? I am not a mechanic, all information will be helpful. I have only changed brakes on Toyotas. How would I go about this? Thanks for your help.|||You need a torx bit. The problem is G.M. Uses both standard and metric size tools on may vehicles.
You can either take it apart and get the right size tool, repair it in a auto parts store parking lot that has free tool loaners, get a ride to buy the right size, buy the both standard and metric size torx, or buy a Chilton%26#039;s Manual - they tell you the right size.
You%26#039;ll need the the rotors and or drums cut to tru them. Some auto parts stores do it for free for buying the brake pads/shoes.|||You can use a #50 torque bit.
I would strongly caution you against performing a Brake job on your brakes by yourself.
This is a very important system and requires extreme care when performing repairs.
Please take the vehicle too a certified shop or have a skilled brake tech. assist you
in your DIY attempt.
You can either take it apart and get the right size tool, repair it in a auto parts store parking lot that has free tool loaners, get a ride to buy the right size, buy the both standard and metric size torx, or buy a Chilton%26#039;s Manual - they tell you the right size.
You%26#039;ll need the the rotors and or drums cut to tru them. Some auto parts stores do it for free for buying the brake pads/shoes.|||You can use a #50 torque bit.
I would strongly caution you against performing a Brake job on your brakes by yourself.
This is a very important system and requires extreme care when performing repairs.
Please take the vehicle too a certified shop or have a skilled brake tech. assist you
in your DIY attempt.
Changing brakes, can I re-use my old anti-squeal shim?
im changing the brakes on my car, can I re-use the other brakes anti-squeal shims, they look like they are in good condition.|||You can try, but the usually slide out place and make noise. I would use new ones or the blue goop you smear on the back.|||i cant see why not, as long as they fit tight and in good shape.|||Why not if there is nothing wrong with them.
I do ,and I%26#039;m very particular when it comes to brakes and steering.|||they are shims. They are not in contact with anything. They are a filler. You can reuse. May need some goop on them for maybe they had factory goop on them that melted off by now.?|||yeah sure .. you can pretty much do anything you want.. but new ones come with the new brakes so why use the old ones...???
I do ,and I%26#039;m very particular when it comes to brakes and steering.|||they are shims. They are not in contact with anything. They are a filler. You can reuse. May need some goop on them for maybe they had factory goop on them that melted off by now.?|||yeah sure .. you can pretty much do anything you want.. but new ones come with the new brakes so why use the old ones...???
How do you change car brakes?
the above 2 answers are right. But you also need to apply grease to the shaft of the 2 bolts. It fits in a rubber boot.|||the simplest solution to your problem is to go to a mechanic.if you%26#039;d like to change them yourself,it all depends of what type of brakes do you have installed on your car.
if you have a simple type you have to remove the wheels and disengage the hydraulic sistem.after that you remove the braking plates(2 pieces/wheel)and take out the braking system.
that is as simple as i could describe|||It%26#039;s not hard really. Just watch out for my spelling. If your car uses DISK PADS and not BRAKE SHOES it is easy. All you need are the appropriate spanners. I don%26#039;t remember the sizes, but if you have from 14 up, you should be ok. Remove the tyre/rim. Find the brake calliper. There should be 2 bolts on the calliper, one longer than the other (you%26#039;ll know when you take it off). Remove one, or both if you%26#039;re more comfortable working with the calliper off. Remove the disk pads. You may need to pry the calliper down, as in the current position, when you place the new disk pads in it wont fit back onto your disk wheel. Place in the new disk wheels, and do the reverse of pulling it down. Make sure you put back the long bolt and short bolt in their appropriate spots. If your car is different from how I described it, I recommend not trying, unless you know you want to and can have a mechanic come and fix it if you make a mistake.|||on the front jack up the car and remove the rim now you should be able to see the rotor and calaper the calaper is what holds the brake pads on the back side of the calaper should be two bolts holding it on remove them and the calaper should slide off remove the old brake pads there is a pistion in the calaper that has to be colapsed so the new brakes will fit on the rotor some cars are different that others but this method usualy works for most cars take off the cover on the break fluid resovior first then take a big c clamp and a socket that will fit in the center of the calaper piston position the c clamp with the screw inside the piston and the other side on the back of the calaper be careful not to damage any break lines while cranking the c clamp turn the c clamp until the pistion is all the way inside the calaper now you are ready put the new brakes on put them in the calaper and slide the calaper back on the rotor bolt it back on put cover back on the resovior start the car and apply the breaks pump them until you feel them getting tight turn off the car check the fluid check the calapers and the break line for leaks if ok put the tire back on ps when colapsing the calaper pistion fluid may leak out of the resoviou this is normal but messy so you may want to put a pan under it to catch the overflow no need to bleed the brakes there should not be any air in the lines good luck
if you have a simple type you have to remove the wheels and disengage the hydraulic sistem.after that you remove the braking plates(2 pieces/wheel)and take out the braking system.
that is as simple as i could describe|||It%26#039;s not hard really. Just watch out for my spelling. If your car uses DISK PADS and not BRAKE SHOES it is easy. All you need are the appropriate spanners. I don%26#039;t remember the sizes, but if you have from 14 up, you should be ok. Remove the tyre/rim. Find the brake calliper. There should be 2 bolts on the calliper, one longer than the other (you%26#039;ll know when you take it off). Remove one, or both if you%26#039;re more comfortable working with the calliper off. Remove the disk pads. You may need to pry the calliper down, as in the current position, when you place the new disk pads in it wont fit back onto your disk wheel. Place in the new disk wheels, and do the reverse of pulling it down. Make sure you put back the long bolt and short bolt in their appropriate spots. If your car is different from how I described it, I recommend not trying, unless you know you want to and can have a mechanic come and fix it if you make a mistake.|||on the front jack up the car and remove the rim now you should be able to see the rotor and calaper the calaper is what holds the brake pads on the back side of the calaper should be two bolts holding it on remove them and the calaper should slide off remove the old brake pads there is a pistion in the calaper that has to be colapsed so the new brakes will fit on the rotor some cars are different that others but this method usualy works for most cars take off the cover on the break fluid resovior first then take a big c clamp and a socket that will fit in the center of the calaper piston position the c clamp with the screw inside the piston and the other side on the back of the calaper be careful not to damage any break lines while cranking the c clamp turn the c clamp until the pistion is all the way inside the calaper now you are ready put the new brakes on put them in the calaper and slide the calaper back on the rotor bolt it back on put cover back on the resovior start the car and apply the breaks pump them until you feel them getting tight turn off the car check the fluid check the calapers and the break line for leaks if ok put the tire back on ps when colapsing the calaper pistion fluid may leak out of the resoviou this is normal but messy so you may want to put a pan under it to catch the overflow no need to bleed the brakes there should not be any air in the lines good luck
When someone changes your brakes on your car?
do you have to bleed them? i had my brakes changed and the guy said all you have to do is change the pads. well now my car has a nasty smell and it smokes where the pads were changed. does anyone know what may be the problem?|||Did you have some one change them that knew what they were doing, If they got any grease on the rotor it will get hot and smoke , The only time I open the system is to repair the system otherwise the system stays closed that avoids extra work. hope this helps|||They must be bled if the system is opened. If only the pads were changed it doesn%26#039;t need to be done. If the brakes still smell after another day or 2 take it back to the shop.|||You could have a caliper sticking. Jack up the wheel that is smoking and see if you can turn it if it turns with out to much effort your caliper is probably OK. Just be sure you have the car in neutral if its a drive wheel and the parking brake is off if the parking brake works that wheel. Put blocks in front of and behind the wheels that are on the ground to be sure the car doesn%26#039;t fall on you.|||the rotors should be turned and every thing should be cleaned with brake parts cleaner if done properly they should not smoke or stink
i would take it back just to be safe
have to agree with mark g the caliper could be stuck but who ever did the brakes should have found that prob.
if you added brakefluid to the car before the brakes were done when the tech compressed the calipers it could have spilled brake fluid out of the master cylinder|||The fluid does not have to be changed when the pads are replaced and rotors worked on. It is not a bad idea to bleed the system every couple of years as the fluid accumulates water and this can cause corrosion on the inside of the calipers. If your breaks are smoking and stinking then something is burning. If it does not stop or you notice an increased stopping distance then take it back to the shop. someone then messed up.
i would take it back just to be safe
have to agree with mark g the caliper could be stuck but who ever did the brakes should have found that prob.
if you added brakefluid to the car before the brakes were done when the tech compressed the calipers it could have spilled brake fluid out of the master cylinder|||The fluid does not have to be changed when the pads are replaced and rotors worked on. It is not a bad idea to bleed the system every couple of years as the fluid accumulates water and this can cause corrosion on the inside of the calipers. If your breaks are smoking and stinking then something is burning. If it does not stop or you notice an increased stopping distance then take it back to the shop. someone then messed up.
Sqealing Disk Brakes On Car - Is it a sign that the pads need changing?
Hi,
I have a suzuki swift sport, and it has done roughly 14k miles..
I have noticed that the brakes tend to sqeal if I either brakes lightly or very harshly......
Is sqealing brakes a sign that they need changing?
How can I get rid of the sqeal?
Thanks - Matty :D|||Nowadays it%26#039;s the pads that last for ever and the disks wear out, ever since they took the asbestos out. However 14 k is not very far and I would expect there is a build up of brake dust causing this. IMHO around 40k should be the life of a brake set|||Yes, it is a sign they need changing|||Its a Sign that the pads are completely worn through and the squealing is metal scarping against metal.|||It doesn%26#039;t necessarily mean that the pads are worn, but it can do - have the brakes inspected at any local independent garage if you don%26#039;t know what you%26#039;re looking at yourself.
At 14,000 miles, it shouldn%26#039;t need new pads unless you%26#039;ve been very heavy on the brakes.
If it isn%26#039;t pad wear, the car could just need the brakes stripping, cleaning %26amp; some copper grease applied to moving parts.|||They may need replacing - you can only tell by looking at the thickness of the linings which hould not be much undr 2 - 3mm.
May be able to cure with anti=squeal shims, which go between the pads and brake pistons.|||I bought a new Malibu and it squealed at 2k miles. This is how I fixed it. Go to your favorite parts store and get a spray can or bottle of brake squeal preventer. You will have to remove the brake pads and apply the brake squeal preventer on the backs of the pads and mating brake surfaces.|||not all the time ! sometimes it,s only brake dust. get some brake cleaner and spray the brakes.|||Dry weather with lots of dust and dirt can cause squeals - just check them for wear. 14k miles seems a relatively low mileage.
I have a suzuki swift sport, and it has done roughly 14k miles..
I have noticed that the brakes tend to sqeal if I either brakes lightly or very harshly......
Is sqealing brakes a sign that they need changing?
How can I get rid of the sqeal?
Thanks - Matty :D|||Nowadays it%26#039;s the pads that last for ever and the disks wear out, ever since they took the asbestos out. However 14 k is not very far and I would expect there is a build up of brake dust causing this. IMHO around 40k should be the life of a brake set|||Yes, it is a sign they need changing|||Its a Sign that the pads are completely worn through and the squealing is metal scarping against metal.|||It doesn%26#039;t necessarily mean that the pads are worn, but it can do - have the brakes inspected at any local independent garage if you don%26#039;t know what you%26#039;re looking at yourself.
At 14,000 miles, it shouldn%26#039;t need new pads unless you%26#039;ve been very heavy on the brakes.
If it isn%26#039;t pad wear, the car could just need the brakes stripping, cleaning %26amp; some copper grease applied to moving parts.|||They may need replacing - you can only tell by looking at the thickness of the linings which hould not be much undr 2 - 3mm.
May be able to cure with anti=squeal shims, which go between the pads and brake pistons.|||I bought a new Malibu and it squealed at 2k miles. This is how I fixed it. Go to your favorite parts store and get a spray can or bottle of brake squeal preventer. You will have to remove the brake pads and apply the brake squeal preventer on the backs of the pads and mating brake surfaces.|||not all the time ! sometimes it,s only brake dust. get some brake cleaner and spray the brakes.|||Dry weather with lots of dust and dirt can cause squeals - just check them for wear. 14k miles seems a relatively low mileage.
Can u change brakes without changing the rotters?
My car needs brakes and rotters (sp?) can i have my brakes done now and rotters done later (money is tight)? or do they have to b done together?|||you can, but the rotors will wear the brakes down faster esp if they are really bad- If its due to cost that you are waiting you can have the rotors resurfaced unless they are too thin|||Rotors not needed unless the pads were worn down from metal to metal contact or they are warped, (steering wheel wobble) or have hot spots, (feels like the brakes are catching/jerking when appling the brakes)?
If there was no metal to metal contact then new pads can be installed and they will seat in fine.
If there was metal to metal then the new pads will be ruined.
If there was no metal to metal contact then new pads can be installed and they will seat in fine.
If there was metal to metal then the new pads will be ruined.
Soft brakes after changing brake pads, bleeding, and replacing master cylinder? What else could it be?
2002 Honda Accord LX V6 with ABS brake system. Took the car to midas for a regular brake pad change after squealers were heard. Right after I got my car back, the brake pedal suddenly felt soft, and if I pushed with a little extra force, the pedal hit the floor. So after bleeding the brakes, Midas said it was a leak in the master cylinder and it was coincidental. After a little arguing, I got them to replace the master cylinder at no charge. However, the pedal feels a little better, but it%26#039;s still extremely soft. Again, with a little extra force, I could push the pedal until it almost hits the floor. What else could it be? This has been hell. All I initially went for was a routine brake pad change.|||There is STILL air in the brake system.|||either still air in the lines, or (if you have rear drum brakes) the rear could be out of adjustment. Good Luck|||Take your car back emitidly where you had brakes done and have them bleed and pressure check the system out, this is not right , it is a safety check and should not cost any thing|||Other fault possibilities that are allowing air to get into the system are:
Leaking Lines
Leaking or Faulty Caliper/s
Loose Bleeder Screw/s
Leaking Line Connections at Master Cylinder
Low Reservoir Content
Leaking Line Connections at Rear Wheel
Cylinders or any other point where threaded
fittings enter.
Faulty New or Rebuilt Master Cylinder
Brake Rotor/s Excessive wear.
Incompetent Air Bleeding Procedure.
Leaking Lines
Leaking or Faulty Caliper/s
Loose Bleeder Screw/s
Leaking Line Connections at Master Cylinder
Low Reservoir Content
Leaking Line Connections at Rear Wheel
Cylinders or any other point where threaded
fittings enter.
Faulty New or Rebuilt Master Cylinder
Brake Rotor/s Excessive wear.
Incompetent Air Bleeding Procedure.
I drove 55k miles & brakes still feel fine, this normal? HOW MANY MILES YOU drive B4 change car brakes?
How many miles are you supposed to change your brakes for you car?? I owned my car for 4 years this month and put on 55k miles and the brakes are the still the original factory (never changed them or anything), Im worried cuz so far the brakes feel GREAT and like new (lol) but what if they stop workin all of sudden?! [and i DONT consider myself a conversative driver, i tend to race a kinda lot and have heavy foot kinda, i get road rage easily.lol.]
SO HOW MANY MILES are you supposed change your BRAKES? also list the kind of car cuz may thatdepends? i drive 05 corolla XRS (the sportier corolla, so i figure they gave me the Better Brakes?)|||After 55k I would defiantly recommend a brake inspection. I%26#039;m sure the Toyota dealer would recommend replacement at like 40k. Go to a tire store and get the %26quot;free brake inspection%26quot;. They will tell you to probably replace them. It%26#039;s better to replace them before they start making noise and have a bad feel to them anyway. If you run the old brake pad too long they can damage the rotor and caliper.|||It depends on how many times you press the brake pedals and not mileage or years.|||If those are highway miles then you should be fine.|||Listen to ME. I put less than 20K on brakes and changed them. Another car I drove had about 30,000 miles before the brakes needed changed. It depends on the type of brakes (Autozone vs Brembo) and how they%26#039;re used (Grandma-style vs 0-60-0 in about 1000 ft. Im pretty hard on my brakes so they wont last as long. My dad drives pretty slow so he will hardly ever need brakes replaced. If they dont make ANY sounds or if the brake pedal doesnt pulsate during NORMAL braking action (just resting right foot on pedal to slow) then they%26#039;re fine. Squealing you hear from other people%26#039;s brakes means they neglect their car and could run into somebody if they needed to brake really hard, and its actually chatter. The pads are jumping off and onto the brake rotor. This is a very bad thing. When you feel your pedal and car pulsate when you hit the brakes, your rotors are warped and the repair just became about 3-4 X more expensive.
SO HOW MANY MILES are you supposed change your BRAKES? also list the kind of car cuz may thatdepends? i drive 05 corolla XRS (the sportier corolla, so i figure they gave me the Better Brakes?)|||After 55k I would defiantly recommend a brake inspection. I%26#039;m sure the Toyota dealer would recommend replacement at like 40k. Go to a tire store and get the %26quot;free brake inspection%26quot;. They will tell you to probably replace them. It%26#039;s better to replace them before they start making noise and have a bad feel to them anyway. If you run the old brake pad too long they can damage the rotor and caliper.|||It depends on how many times you press the brake pedals and not mileage or years.|||If those are highway miles then you should be fine.|||Listen to ME. I put less than 20K on brakes and changed them. Another car I drove had about 30,000 miles before the brakes needed changed. It depends on the type of brakes (Autozone vs Brembo) and how they%26#039;re used (Grandma-style vs 0-60-0 in about 1000 ft. Im pretty hard on my brakes so they wont last as long. My dad drives pretty slow so he will hardly ever need brakes replaced. If they dont make ANY sounds or if the brake pedal doesnt pulsate during NORMAL braking action (just resting right foot on pedal to slow) then they%26#039;re fine. Squealing you hear from other people%26#039;s brakes means they neglect their car and could run into somebody if they needed to brake really hard, and its actually chatter. The pads are jumping off and onto the brake rotor. This is a very bad thing. When you feel your pedal and car pulsate when you hit the brakes, your rotors are warped and the repair just became about 3-4 X more expensive.
After how many miles do you change the brakes on your car?
It%26#039;s cold outside and I%26#039;m too lazy to go look at my car owner%26#039;s manual, but how often do you change the brakes on a car - specifically a 2001 Acura TL? This set of brakes probably has 50k miles on it and a lot of it has been city driving. I%26#039;m not hard on my brakes, but do more stop and go than I do highway miles.|||I recommend changing them when they need it, not by mileage. If you have some experience with a local mechanic, have them check them when you have your tires rotated. They don%26#039;t really need to be replaced until they wear down to the indicators, which emit a high pitched squeaking or chirping sound.|||It also depends on how high quality of pads you put on. A set of ceramic pads will last a lot longer than cheap metal composite.
At 50k with lots of city driving it couldn%26#039;t hurt to have them looked at, they could be ready to go or they could give another 50k|||It varies a lot according to the car and the driver. If you have 50K miles it is definitely time to check them out, but you must be pretty gentle with them to have made it this far. 50K is a lot of miles.|||just look and see how much pad is left between the disk and the backing plate..... i have had most last over 50K .
At 50k with lots of city driving it couldn%26#039;t hurt to have them looked at, they could be ready to go or they could give another 50k|||It varies a lot according to the car and the driver. If you have 50K miles it is definitely time to check them out, but you must be pretty gentle with them to have made it this far. 50K is a lot of miles.|||just look and see how much pad is left between the disk and the backing plate..... i have had most last over 50K .
How much should I charge to change the brakes on an car for a relative?
Do you think charging my sister-in-law $40.00 for changing her back brakes is a bad price? She bought the pads herself and thought that $40 bucks was too high. Did anyone ever get their brakes done at a service station? How much were you charged, just a rough estimate please!!!|||Well, I wouldn%26#039;t have a problem charging a relative to do their breaks. It takes time, and it%26#039;s a skill that not everybody has, and to do everything for free isn%26#039;t realistic sometimes unless they are doing you favors in return that are worth the hassle. I love my relatives and family, but I don%26#039;t have time to give away either.
I would feel $20 each side is very reasonable. I know that to do the front pads and rotors, shops charge $300 and the parts are only $100. They make a KILL, and if your relative is complaining about $40 labor, then they need to go to the shop and find out what they would be paying normally. They probably feel it%26#039;s too high, because they don%26#039;t know what the shops charge.
Charging your relative doesn%26#039;t mean that you don%26#039;t love them. I cannot do everything for free either. I understand that time is money, and if it%26#039;s saving my relative a lot of money, then I%26#039;m doing them a favor by only charging a little to do the job.|||I would just do it for a lunch or something back brakes are harder then the front if u use a vice to push down the caliper rather than bleeding the brakes.|||when will you learn never to work on relative car//you cant win//if something messes up you will hear it forever//always tell relatives you are too busy//dont sell them a car either..god forbid somethjing goes wrong and you dont fix it for free 3 years later//cars and relatives dont mix|||I don%26#039;t charge relatives for minor repairs, with major repairs i will ask for a similar worth favor or charge $10/hr.
One hour to change some pads/shoes is nothing for the fam.
Ken%26#039;s family must suck, It doesn%26#039;t matter to me, if the family member tries to hold something done as a favor against me in the future, i would(and have) just write them off. I have a petty cousin, and an uncle from another side who have lost any type of family hook-up. Seriously, it%26#039;s family, we help each other. (incidentally the cousins wife and the uncles son will now bring their cars, and they still get fixed, but i won%26#039;t deal with them directly)|||Yes it is high for a relative. You should be doing it for free. I do.
I%26#039;m happy if I get a six-pack for it.
The last time I had a shop do mine it was $60au. There%26#039;s no way I%26#039;d pay a relative $40 , especially if I%26#039;d already bought the pads. Do you even have the tools to check disc runout, or to machine the discs? Or are you just doing the old %26#039;change the pads%26#039;?
If all you are doing is changing pads, you should definetly doing it for free!|||that,s not a bad price ! that,s $20.00 a side. sounds like you gave her a break. i change my own brakes but i bet the garage would be charging more then $ 40.00. i don,t like to work on relatives cars. if something turns out the way they think it should,nt then i would,nt hear the last of it.|||I%26#039;m going to have to say that $40.00 isn%26#039;t bad figure, but it%26#039;s seems your sister in-law is either out of touch on what the avg. hourly rate is at a repair shop or just doesn%26#039;t have the extra cash.
So if you know that her money is tight, then you do it for free or exchange for something like lunch or dinner on her.
Basically I never put a figure on auto repair for family, I just let them pay what they think is fair, for the most part my family over pays. because they know that I%26#039;m hooking them up at their convenience.
I think the key is to never give a figure up front, just let them offer compensation, maybe it nothing or maybe it%26#039;s double. If nothing at least you know that they will owe you one when your in need. It%26#039; what family do for one another.
I would feel $20 each side is very reasonable. I know that to do the front pads and rotors, shops charge $300 and the parts are only $100. They make a KILL, and if your relative is complaining about $40 labor, then they need to go to the shop and find out what they would be paying normally. They probably feel it%26#039;s too high, because they don%26#039;t know what the shops charge.
Charging your relative doesn%26#039;t mean that you don%26#039;t love them. I cannot do everything for free either. I understand that time is money, and if it%26#039;s saving my relative a lot of money, then I%26#039;m doing them a favor by only charging a little to do the job.|||I would just do it for a lunch or something back brakes are harder then the front if u use a vice to push down the caliper rather than bleeding the brakes.|||when will you learn never to work on relative car//you cant win//if something messes up you will hear it forever//always tell relatives you are too busy//dont sell them a car either..god forbid somethjing goes wrong and you dont fix it for free 3 years later//cars and relatives dont mix|||I don%26#039;t charge relatives for minor repairs, with major repairs i will ask for a similar worth favor or charge $10/hr.
One hour to change some pads/shoes is nothing for the fam.
Ken%26#039;s family must suck, It doesn%26#039;t matter to me, if the family member tries to hold something done as a favor against me in the future, i would(and have) just write them off. I have a petty cousin, and an uncle from another side who have lost any type of family hook-up. Seriously, it%26#039;s family, we help each other. (incidentally the cousins wife and the uncles son will now bring their cars, and they still get fixed, but i won%26#039;t deal with them directly)|||Yes it is high for a relative. You should be doing it for free. I do.
I%26#039;m happy if I get a six-pack for it.
The last time I had a shop do mine it was $60au. There%26#039;s no way I%26#039;d pay a relative $40 , especially if I%26#039;d already bought the pads. Do you even have the tools to check disc runout, or to machine the discs? Or are you just doing the old %26#039;change the pads%26#039;?
If all you are doing is changing pads, you should definetly doing it for free!|||that,s not a bad price ! that,s $20.00 a side. sounds like you gave her a break. i change my own brakes but i bet the garage would be charging more then $ 40.00. i don,t like to work on relatives cars. if something turns out the way they think it should,nt then i would,nt hear the last of it.|||I%26#039;m going to have to say that $40.00 isn%26#039;t bad figure, but it%26#039;s seems your sister in-law is either out of touch on what the avg. hourly rate is at a repair shop or just doesn%26#039;t have the extra cash.
So if you know that her money is tight, then you do it for free or exchange for something like lunch or dinner on her.
Basically I never put a figure on auto repair for family, I just let them pay what they think is fair, for the most part my family over pays. because they know that I%26#039;m hooking them up at their convenience.
I think the key is to never give a figure up front, just let them offer compensation, maybe it nothing or maybe it%26#039;s double. If nothing at least you know that they will owe you one when your in need. It%26#039; what family do for one another.
How often should I get my brakes changed on my car?
I got my car about 3 yrs ago. It%26#039;s a used %26#039;94 Ford Taurus. I believe the brakes were new when I got the car and I haven%26#039;t really had any problems so far with the brakes. Thanks for looking and answering!|||I was going to say check them every 2 years. But it really depends on your driving habits. Brake inspections are free, there%26#039;s no reason not to have one done.|||Brakes should be always checked every time you get an oil change. We all drive differently so it depends on how you drive. I%26#039;ve seen brakes changed at 3000 miles. If you live uphill will also make a difference since going downhill requires brakes. There%26#039;s really no time frame for brakes on how long they will last, its a matter of how you drive or where you drive.You sometimes feel a rough feeling when you press the brakes,or a squeal, but it does not mean you need new brakes. Have it checked ASAP.|||AS LONG AS YOU DON%26#039;T RIDE BRAKE PEDAL OR LIVE IN HILLY AREA 60,000 MILES AVERAGE.|||it depend on how hard you on them.i mean do you ride you foot on the brake?have someone check them for you.
How often do you change car brake disks and /or pads?
I am getting lots of conflicting information from different mechanics. There is noise in the car, and I am not using it much now because of it. I dont want to be charged to much for something I dont need. Would wear and tear distroy brakes in 30K miles (brand new), in heavy trafic?
How much do disks/ pad%26#039;s cost to replace. The stupid dealer told me 600 bucks. Yeah right. Any ideas or suggestions on national brands where its reliable and cheap?|||Well here is the most definative %26quot; that depends%26quot;.
You did not say what kind of car you have. In general the dealer does not beleive you know anything about cars so they can %26quot;take%26quot; you. Brakes jobs are fast easy and HIGH MARGIN.
Dealers are often trying to improve the bottom line.
That being said, Brake wear measurably depends on your driving style. Brakes wear quickly in two cases. Very good (ie.%26quot;agressive%26quot;) and very poor drivers. Poor drivers tend to drag on their brakes which heat them up and wear them out. Agressive drivers tend to use them hard which contributes to quick wear. 30K miles is not too much for front pads. I wear out pads on my pick up and minivan in 20K miles. The Mini and Camry go much further 35K and 60 K respectively. If you caught the required change before the pads broke down to the steel backer pads you do not need rotors. Do not let anyone change rotors without making them prove that they are either scored or warped. A simple pad change should be less than $ 200.00.
The only way a dealer could get to $ 600.00 is pads and rotors all around. That is excessive and probaby not required. Take the car to a place that will show you what they are talking about. Make them show you the pad material if there is a quarter inch of pad left you don%26#039;t need them. If below a quarter inch change them.
Make them show you the rotors and their condition. If they are not heavily grooved or glazed and discolored they do not need replaced.
I have had good success with NTB or Sears Automotive not lying to me( at least less than the rest). I%26#039;ve never used Pep Boys but do not have a good opinion of Midas.
A good way to find out would be to take it to a tire shop and have the alignment checked and have them check the brakes while they are in there. If they are after the suspension you might get a better opinion of the brakes. You should be able to get the alignment checked, tires rotated and an oil change in the $ 80.00
range which is not money misspent. The money saved in tires by having the alignment checked is worth the expence anyway.
Depending on the car again your OEM tires will be leaving you in the next 5K to 20K anyway. Anything which prolongs that change is worth it.|||try to use dealer pads, especially on late model cars.
30K is decent for front brakes to wear out.
brakes arent something you might or might not need. if the friction material is worn down to the limit, the car is unsafe and should be repaired. its as much of an issue as you want it to be.|||they all have a squeaker build in, change a the first sign of squeaking|||Yes brakes can wear out in 30k miles if their put under heavy wear and tear driving conditions. You can save yourself money by going through an auto parts dealer like Murrays or Autozone or Napa
You will also want to adjust your back brakes every 6,000 miles in stop and go traffic. It will help prelong the life of your brakes. Or use parking brake but this is depending on the model car. Check with your dealer. They will tell you up front.|||I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings but yes it is very possible to wear out the brakes in 30 k miles. If you ignored the noise and let the metal backing on the brake pads eat into one or both rotors than it could be an expensive proposition. The most expensive brake job will be at the dealer, but you will get original factory parts and knowledgeable labor for that price. But if price is the main concern try getting a few estimates from brake places like Midas or Pep Boys. They can usually shave 20-50% of of the dealers prices, but use aftermarket parts.|||This one%26#039;s easy. Generally speaking, if your brakes are noisy and there%26#039;s 30 thousand miles or more on the pads, change them. My sister knows how, it%26#039;s not rocket science. Jack up your car and get after it. Always do both sides and check the rotors for uneven wear, most mechanics (shadetree and professional) recommend turning the rotors whenever you change your pads. I think that if your rotors appear to have even wear and no unusual problems, you can do it every other time you change pads.|||The only way to know is to examine them for remaining material.
New pads cost about $20 and take a couple hours total to replace.
If the dealer replaces them they will turn the drums whether they need it or not. They will find a few other things to fix also.
The reason they replace unnecessary parts is because they have to warranty the work and people sue them if anything happens even if it isn%26#039;t the dealers fault, so they have to cover their (hind ends) politically correct for a--s. If you want to do it yourself or have a friend help, buy a manual for the car at the parts store, and buy any tool they recommend Book $20, tools $20 Buy the pads at the parts store , not the dealer. Most aftermarket pads are as good or better than the oem.|||It%26#039;s not that expensive to chang the pads. The rotors need to be checked to see if they need to be milled down that is where the cost comes in. $600 to replace rotors and pads is a fair price from an OEM dealership. I wouldn%26#039;t use Midas, Tuffy, etc. you see TV News shows doing undercover stings on these places all of the time, they always try to up sell if you need it or not. Get a good recommendation for an independant shop and have them do the repair. I have 63,000 miles on my origional brakes on my GMC SUV, still plenty of pad there.|||depending on what car you drive and how hard, but you,ve got your moneys worth out of those pads at 30k, discs prob change between 30 and 60k, as for 600 dollars your lucky, motoring is not a poormans hobby|||30K is ok for heavy traffic. You use the brakes four times as much as someone on the open highway.
Believe it or not, I%26#039;ve found Sears to be one of the most honest and fair for brake jobs. 600 is a little ridiculous. You probably don%26#039;t need rotors.
How much do disks/ pad%26#039;s cost to replace. The stupid dealer told me 600 bucks. Yeah right. Any ideas or suggestions on national brands where its reliable and cheap?|||Well here is the most definative %26quot; that depends%26quot;.
You did not say what kind of car you have. In general the dealer does not beleive you know anything about cars so they can %26quot;take%26quot; you. Brakes jobs are fast easy and HIGH MARGIN.
Dealers are often trying to improve the bottom line.
That being said, Brake wear measurably depends on your driving style. Brakes wear quickly in two cases. Very good (ie.%26quot;agressive%26quot;) and very poor drivers. Poor drivers tend to drag on their brakes which heat them up and wear them out. Agressive drivers tend to use them hard which contributes to quick wear. 30K miles is not too much for front pads. I wear out pads on my pick up and minivan in 20K miles. The Mini and Camry go much further 35K and 60 K respectively. If you caught the required change before the pads broke down to the steel backer pads you do not need rotors. Do not let anyone change rotors without making them prove that they are either scored or warped. A simple pad change should be less than $ 200.00.
The only way a dealer could get to $ 600.00 is pads and rotors all around. That is excessive and probaby not required. Take the car to a place that will show you what they are talking about. Make them show you the pad material if there is a quarter inch of pad left you don%26#039;t need them. If below a quarter inch change them.
Make them show you the rotors and their condition. If they are not heavily grooved or glazed and discolored they do not need replaced.
I have had good success with NTB or Sears Automotive not lying to me( at least less than the rest). I%26#039;ve never used Pep Boys but do not have a good opinion of Midas.
A good way to find out would be to take it to a tire shop and have the alignment checked and have them check the brakes while they are in there. If they are after the suspension you might get a better opinion of the brakes. You should be able to get the alignment checked, tires rotated and an oil change in the $ 80.00
range which is not money misspent. The money saved in tires by having the alignment checked is worth the expence anyway.
Depending on the car again your OEM tires will be leaving you in the next 5K to 20K anyway. Anything which prolongs that change is worth it.|||try to use dealer pads, especially on late model cars.
30K is decent for front brakes to wear out.
brakes arent something you might or might not need. if the friction material is worn down to the limit, the car is unsafe and should be repaired. its as much of an issue as you want it to be.|||they all have a squeaker build in, change a the first sign of squeaking|||Yes brakes can wear out in 30k miles if their put under heavy wear and tear driving conditions. You can save yourself money by going through an auto parts dealer like Murrays or Autozone or Napa
You will also want to adjust your back brakes every 6,000 miles in stop and go traffic. It will help prelong the life of your brakes. Or use parking brake but this is depending on the model car. Check with your dealer. They will tell you up front.|||I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings but yes it is very possible to wear out the brakes in 30 k miles. If you ignored the noise and let the metal backing on the brake pads eat into one or both rotors than it could be an expensive proposition. The most expensive brake job will be at the dealer, but you will get original factory parts and knowledgeable labor for that price. But if price is the main concern try getting a few estimates from brake places like Midas or Pep Boys. They can usually shave 20-50% of of the dealers prices, but use aftermarket parts.|||This one%26#039;s easy. Generally speaking, if your brakes are noisy and there%26#039;s 30 thousand miles or more on the pads, change them. My sister knows how, it%26#039;s not rocket science. Jack up your car and get after it. Always do both sides and check the rotors for uneven wear, most mechanics (shadetree and professional) recommend turning the rotors whenever you change your pads. I think that if your rotors appear to have even wear and no unusual problems, you can do it every other time you change pads.|||The only way to know is to examine them for remaining material.
New pads cost about $20 and take a couple hours total to replace.
If the dealer replaces them they will turn the drums whether they need it or not. They will find a few other things to fix also.
The reason they replace unnecessary parts is because they have to warranty the work and people sue them if anything happens even if it isn%26#039;t the dealers fault, so they have to cover their (hind ends) politically correct for a--s. If you want to do it yourself or have a friend help, buy a manual for the car at the parts store, and buy any tool they recommend Book $20, tools $20 Buy the pads at the parts store , not the dealer. Most aftermarket pads are as good or better than the oem.|||It%26#039;s not that expensive to chang the pads. The rotors need to be checked to see if they need to be milled down that is where the cost comes in. $600 to replace rotors and pads is a fair price from an OEM dealership. I wouldn%26#039;t use Midas, Tuffy, etc. you see TV News shows doing undercover stings on these places all of the time, they always try to up sell if you need it or not. Get a good recommendation for an independant shop and have them do the repair. I have 63,000 miles on my origional brakes on my GMC SUV, still plenty of pad there.|||depending on what car you drive and how hard, but you,ve got your moneys worth out of those pads at 30k, discs prob change between 30 and 60k, as for 600 dollars your lucky, motoring is not a poormans hobby|||30K is ok for heavy traffic. You use the brakes four times as much as someone on the open highway.
Believe it or not, I%26#039;ve found Sears to be one of the most honest and fair for brake jobs. 600 is a little ridiculous. You probably don%26#039;t need rotors.
Roughly how much does it cost for a mechanic to change yours car disk brakes?
My friend needs new disk brakes, I offered to do it myself, but she said she will just pay someone. Her mechanic said it woul $168, does that seem like alot?|||Hard to say. A lot of it depends on the quality of the pads, and does that include turning the rotors? There are a lot of variables involved to say for sure. However the price quoted doesn%26#039;t seem to be out of line for the job.
good luck|||My husband did them- and Ive been fine but when we had originally called around it was b/t 60-100$ but this is in NC....it varies from shop to state im sure.|||$168 is a little high in price but also you gotta take into account how many brakes are being replaced and wht type of brakes are being put on the car ... hope that helped a little.|||depends on whats needed. car type, size and if rotors must be serviced. sounds like a fair price.are you really qualified and have the tools to do it.|||In dealing with cars, one of my rules is to NEVER take it to a mechanic for a brake job. You can walk away with a bill of over $300.00. When you take it in and tell them you just need brake pads, they will give you a quote on that. However, once they have your car, you will be getting a call that you also need your discs either turned or replaced, as well as your calipers.
Since you are speaking of %26quot;disk brakes%26quot;, I assume you have disk on front and drums on the rear. 80% of your stopping comes from the front brakes, so they wear out faster.
New front pads will only cost you about $30.00, and they are easy to replace. However, don%26#039;t offer to do it for her unless you have experience at such things.
Jack her up and pull the wheel and remove the caliper. Look at the pads and ensure they are evenly worn. If they are not evenly worn, or the pad next to the caliper piston is worn more than the outside, you need work on the caliper. Don%26#039;t try to rebuild it. Just buy a new one. Check your disc and if it is really rough, have it %26quot;turned%26quot; or replace it. Taking off too much metal from the disc will cause it to overheat and you will have what is called %26quot;brake fade%26quot;.
On some cars you don%26#039;t even have to remove the caliper. Just push in the piston and slip in the new pads. If you put on a new caliper, you will need to bleed the brake line.
I NEVER advise anyone to take their car to a shop for a %26quot;brake job%26quot; if they know someone who has the expertise to do it for them.
good luck|||My husband did them- and Ive been fine but when we had originally called around it was b/t 60-100$ but this is in NC....it varies from shop to state im sure.|||$168 is a little high in price but also you gotta take into account how many brakes are being replaced and wht type of brakes are being put on the car ... hope that helped a little.|||depends on whats needed. car type, size and if rotors must be serviced. sounds like a fair price.are you really qualified and have the tools to do it.|||In dealing with cars, one of my rules is to NEVER take it to a mechanic for a brake job. You can walk away with a bill of over $300.00. When you take it in and tell them you just need brake pads, they will give you a quote on that. However, once they have your car, you will be getting a call that you also need your discs either turned or replaced, as well as your calipers.
Since you are speaking of %26quot;disk brakes%26quot;, I assume you have disk on front and drums on the rear. 80% of your stopping comes from the front brakes, so they wear out faster.
New front pads will only cost you about $30.00, and they are easy to replace. However, don%26#039;t offer to do it for her unless you have experience at such things.
Jack her up and pull the wheel and remove the caliper. Look at the pads and ensure they are evenly worn. If they are not evenly worn, or the pad next to the caliper piston is worn more than the outside, you need work on the caliper. Don%26#039;t try to rebuild it. Just buy a new one. Check your disc and if it is really rough, have it %26quot;turned%26quot; or replace it. Taking off too much metal from the disc will cause it to overheat and you will have what is called %26quot;brake fade%26quot;.
On some cars you don%26#039;t even have to remove the caliper. Just push in the piston and slip in the new pads. If you put on a new caliper, you will need to bleed the brake line.
I NEVER advise anyone to take their car to a shop for a %26quot;brake job%26quot; if they know someone who has the expertise to do it for them.
How often do you change your car brakes?
When they wear out. How long that is will depend on your driving habits. If you do a lot of stop-and-go driving, they%26#039;ll wear out sooner. I knew a guy who had a newspaper route. He wore out his brakes on a new car in 20,000 miles. I have a car at home that has over 100,000 miles on the original brakes, but it gets used for a lot of highway miles.
If you%26#039;re not sure about them, have them checked at a brake shop. Some of the chains will do free inspections.|||I change them less often if I drive less often and more often if I drive more often. :)
I inspect them twice a year and %26quot;I%26quot; seem to need pad replacement once every 3 years.
In the fall and spring I take my brakes apart and clean and lube critical parts as this helps with longevity.
Your brakes, properly working, should last about 3 years on the pads as well.|||that depends if you drive where there is a lot of stop and go driving like the city or hilly roads where you have to use your brakes a lot.|||A new car typically gets its first front disc brake check at 30,000 miles. Rear brakes often last twice as many miles as the front brakes. My cars usually get at least 50,000 miles on the front and 100,000 miles on the rear brake pads or shoes, but some cars can routinely wear out front brake pads in 15,000 miles depending on the car and driver use.|||when they where out
to check them just take the wheel off and have a look the inside pad usually wares the most .
Change them when they get to 1.5mm (1/16%26quot;)
If you%26#039;re not sure about them, have them checked at a brake shop. Some of the chains will do free inspections.|||I change them less often if I drive less often and more often if I drive more often. :)
I inspect them twice a year and %26quot;I%26quot; seem to need pad replacement once every 3 years.
In the fall and spring I take my brakes apart and clean and lube critical parts as this helps with longevity.
Your brakes, properly working, should last about 3 years on the pads as well.|||that depends if you drive where there is a lot of stop and go driving like the city or hilly roads where you have to use your brakes a lot.|||A new car typically gets its first front disc brake check at 30,000 miles. Rear brakes often last twice as many miles as the front brakes. My cars usually get at least 50,000 miles on the front and 100,000 miles on the rear brake pads or shoes, but some cars can routinely wear out front brake pads in 15,000 miles depending on the car and driver use.|||when they where out
to check them just take the wheel off and have a look the inside pad usually wares the most .
Change them when they get to 1.5mm (1/16%26quot;)
Changing brakes on a car?
do you need to change front and back brakes all at once or will it be bad if say i replaced my front brakes then my rear brakes a week or 2 after? (if t helps i drve an 84 trans am) thanks|||as long as you replace both of whatever end you decide to replace(i.e. both front or both rear), your fine|||nah just the 2 front brakes the ones in back probably wont need changing for a while you probably have shoes in the back|||if you%26#039;re going to do that, check all 4 hubs and see which ones need changing first. in any case there shouldn%26#039;t be a problem with the way you planned unless there is some other problem you see while checking the hubs.|||you don,t need to change all 4 wheels if 2 or the wheels are still good. just look at them and change the ones that are bad.|||Rear brakes tend to last a lot longer than front brakes. Change the front and examine the rear. They don%26#039;t need to be changed at the same time.|||If this is an 84 the fronts have been changed more than once
already and you should check the rear shoes,the wheel will have
to come off and the brake drum will also have to be removed,but
to remove the drum you may have to back off the adjustment it
takes a screw driver or a brake tool and a probe to lift the rachet
lever off the adjustment wheel.
already and you should check the rear shoes,the wheel will have
to come off and the brake drum will also have to be removed,but
to remove the drum you may have to back off the adjustment it
takes a screw driver or a brake tool and a probe to lift the rachet
lever off the adjustment wheel.
Changing car brake or not?
I thought I needed to change my brakes, but my mechanic said it looks like I still have around 50% life left in them, what should I do? I looked through my rims, and only see enough space for a wooden toothpick in between the caliper and the rotor. I only drive street, and donot ride the brake hard, I average around 6,000 miles a week.|||Wait for the warnings..
when brakes get low there is a sensor that will start making noise. It%26#039;s a light rubbing sound and it stops when the brake is applied. The brakes will also squeak when they get too low.
I don%26#039;t think you drive 6,000 miles a week.|||if you feel that your mechanic is wrong, go to another and get a second opinion.|||thin as a dime on any pad swap them
i recomend wagner thermoquiet pads there great if you want to do it yourself read my 360 page for instrutions|||theres 1 way you can find out, take the wheel off and see how far the squeeler is from the rotor.if its close, i would change them. the squeeler will let you know when its time to change them.
when brakes get low there is a sensor that will start making noise. It%26#039;s a light rubbing sound and it stops when the brake is applied. The brakes will also squeak when they get too low.
I don%26#039;t think you drive 6,000 miles a week.|||if you feel that your mechanic is wrong, go to another and get a second opinion.|||thin as a dime on any pad swap them
i recomend wagner thermoquiet pads there great if you want to do it yourself read my 360 page for instrutions|||theres 1 way you can find out, take the wheel off and see how far the squeeler is from the rotor.if its close, i would change them. the squeeler will let you know when its time to change them.
Changing brake on a car with ABS?
2001 Honda Accord w/ ABS. I had rear brakes (PAD) changed at a shop. They put the car on the wrack and it never came down while the brakes were changed. The process looked identical to changing brake on a car w/o ABS.
If ABS doesn%26#039;t effect the process of brake changes, I%26#039;d like to change the front brakes (PAD)myself at my home garage. Is it safe to do so? Both front and rear are pads.|||the process is similar to doing brakes that aren%26#039;t abs,but there%26#039;s a different procedure to bleeding them out,if their not bleed out right they wont work right,you also have to loosen the bleeders when you depress the piston in for the calipers,other wise the wont work right,its not as easy as it looks and its not hard either,tools will be a main concern you must have the right tools to work with,you also need to have a good repair manual on hand to work with,other wise you will need information and it wont be there,so get a really good repair manual and it will help you a lot on doing this,good luck with it.|||its the same exact process. the only thing ABS does is pulses the brakes extremely fast so you stll have strong stopping control, but without the skidding.|||AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE CORRECT TOOLS YOU WILL BE ABLE TO DO IT BUT IF YOU FINISH AND THERE IS AIR IS THE BRAKE SYSTEM THEN YOU SHOULD STOP BECAUSE IT WILL NEED TO BE BLEED OUT BY A PROFESSIONAL.|||For safety, you need %26quot;jack stands%26quot; available at auto stores and many Sams and Costco price clubs. The car jack can%26#039;t be used safely to hold the car up while you crawl under to unbolt the caliper bolts etc.
http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.a鈥?/a>
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/frn鈥?/a>|||I had an autoshop teacher back in high school totally wig out
on me for changing the brake pads on a 97 accord without cracking open the bleeder valve while compressing the caliper and bleeding the system afterwards for fear that pushing fluid backwards through the abs motor will fry it. After asking 2 ASE certified technicians at Honda ( 10+ years exp. each) 1 Honda service advisor , 1 Mitsubishi service tech (15 years experience) and researching. I have come to find that it is not completely neccessary to do anything different for a pad change on a car with ABS. None of the mechanics disconnected the brake lines and bled the system some of them would pinch the brake line with a special brake line clamp ( sounds a bit iffy to me like it would weaken the hose) I have done pad changes on a 2002 Maxima, 1995 Legend, and a handful of other cars with no adverse effects. The way I see it, just make sure your brake fluid is squeaky clean, if it is a bit dark I would change it instead of run DIRTY brake fluid back through the ABS motor. I don%26#039;t know of any instances where an ABS system has been damaged doing it the traditional way, but thats not to say it hasnt happened before. Until the day I get an ABS light on the dash after a pad change,I will keep doing it the old way .|||just a disc brake change like any car with or without ABS brakes, no difference in installation.
If ABS doesn%26#039;t effect the process of brake changes, I%26#039;d like to change the front brakes (PAD)myself at my home garage. Is it safe to do so? Both front and rear are pads.|||the process is similar to doing brakes that aren%26#039;t abs,but there%26#039;s a different procedure to bleeding them out,if their not bleed out right they wont work right,you also have to loosen the bleeders when you depress the piston in for the calipers,other wise the wont work right,its not as easy as it looks and its not hard either,tools will be a main concern you must have the right tools to work with,you also need to have a good repair manual on hand to work with,other wise you will need information and it wont be there,so get a really good repair manual and it will help you a lot on doing this,good luck with it.|||its the same exact process. the only thing ABS does is pulses the brakes extremely fast so you stll have strong stopping control, but without the skidding.|||AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE CORRECT TOOLS YOU WILL BE ABLE TO DO IT BUT IF YOU FINISH AND THERE IS AIR IS THE BRAKE SYSTEM THEN YOU SHOULD STOP BECAUSE IT WILL NEED TO BE BLEED OUT BY A PROFESSIONAL.|||For safety, you need %26quot;jack stands%26quot; available at auto stores and many Sams and Costco price clubs. The car jack can%26#039;t be used safely to hold the car up while you crawl under to unbolt the caliper bolts etc.
http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.a鈥?/a>
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/frn鈥?/a>|||I had an autoshop teacher back in high school totally wig out
on me for changing the brake pads on a 97 accord without cracking open the bleeder valve while compressing the caliper and bleeding the system afterwards for fear that pushing fluid backwards through the abs motor will fry it. After asking 2 ASE certified technicians at Honda ( 10+ years exp. each) 1 Honda service advisor , 1 Mitsubishi service tech (15 years experience) and researching. I have come to find that it is not completely neccessary to do anything different for a pad change on a car with ABS. None of the mechanics disconnected the brake lines and bled the system some of them would pinch the brake line with a special brake line clamp ( sounds a bit iffy to me like it would weaken the hose) I have done pad changes on a 2002 Maxima, 1995 Legend, and a handful of other cars with no adverse effects. The way I see it, just make sure your brake fluid is squeaky clean, if it is a bit dark I would change it instead of run DIRTY brake fluid back through the ABS motor. I don%26#039;t know of any instances where an ABS system has been damaged doing it the traditional way, but thats not to say it hasnt happened before. Until the day I get an ABS light on the dash after a pad change,I will keep doing it the old way .|||just a disc brake change like any car with or without ABS brakes, no difference in installation.
How much will new brakes cost for my car?
Hii... Ok i dont know anything about cars, im just wondering how much would it cost to change my car brakes, i need to do that ASAP cuz when i brake it sounds horrible!! But i dont want a mechanic to charge me more and if they do i wouldnt know if its alot or not!.. can someone give me an estimation??? (if u really know)
I drive a Dodge Stratus SE 2001|||If your brakes are squeaaling its because the wear tab on the brake pads is hitting the rotor, thats what its there for, it makes the brakes squeal when the pads are low so you know when to replace them.
Pads cost 20-100 dollars per set (front or rear) depending on the car, the quality of pads, and the markup where you buy them, you will also need to pay for labor to install them which isnt much at all.
You may need new rotors as well, in that case each rotor will cost anywhere from ~50$ to as much as 400 per rotor depending on the car, and the quality fo the rotor, most shops will rape you in the *** on rotors, so if you cna find a shop that allows you to bring in parts from outside vendors, pay them for the labor, and have them install parts you buy at autozone or pepboys or something. youls save hundreds of dollars. Delaerships and most franchised garages like pepboys, sears auto, etc will not allow parts form outside vendors, you need to go and ask the little tiny garages at gas stations if they will allow it. If you goto a parts store ot buy parts you need only know what make,model,and year your car is, and what size engine it has, they will then get you the parts.
it coudl cost anywhere from 200 bucks for basic pads and labor, 450 bucks for pads, and cheap rotors to as much as 2k for high end pads and rotors, depending on what you have to do to it|||not much, parts are maybe around 100 bucks for all 4, or something like that.
I drive a Dodge Stratus SE 2001|||If your brakes are squeaaling its because the wear tab on the brake pads is hitting the rotor, thats what its there for, it makes the brakes squeal when the pads are low so you know when to replace them.
Pads cost 20-100 dollars per set (front or rear) depending on the car, the quality of pads, and the markup where you buy them, you will also need to pay for labor to install them which isnt much at all.
You may need new rotors as well, in that case each rotor will cost anywhere from ~50$ to as much as 400 per rotor depending on the car, and the quality fo the rotor, most shops will rape you in the *** on rotors, so if you cna find a shop that allows you to bring in parts from outside vendors, pay them for the labor, and have them install parts you buy at autozone or pepboys or something. youls save hundreds of dollars. Delaerships and most franchised garages like pepboys, sears auto, etc will not allow parts form outside vendors, you need to go and ask the little tiny garages at gas stations if they will allow it. If you goto a parts store ot buy parts you need only know what make,model,and year your car is, and what size engine it has, they will then get you the parts.
it coudl cost anywhere from 200 bucks for basic pads and labor, 450 bucks for pads, and cheap rotors to as much as 2k for high end pads and rotors, depending on what you have to do to it|||not much, parts are maybe around 100 bucks for all 4, or something like that.
Im changing the brakes on my car and need help?
can i get step by step instructions to change the brakes on an %26#039;s%26#039;reg hyundai accent.i can%26#039;t get the flange to come off no matter what i do.ive changed dozens of brakes before but these are proving a real nightmare.any suggestions?|||the best idea on this one would be to get a Haynes repair manual on that car,it will cover all the basics on doing that ,they cost around 15 bucks but their worth that and more,and they also have real good pics of doing the job also,i use them around the shop because of the info they have in them,it helps a lot to know whats ahead of you on a job like this,good luck with it.|||%26quot;Flange%26quot; is not a standard term for brake repair to my knowledge. You remove the caliper and rotor or you remove the drum and shoes. Maybe you mean you can%26#039;t get the rear drum off? Be more specific. Release the parking brake and use a crow bar to lever the rear drum off the brake shoes. Early Hondas need a special tool to remove the front rotors.
Changing Car Brakes....?
I have a 2001 Quest and I%26#039;ve owned it for 5 years without changing the brake pads and now it is time to change them. After removing the wheel, the caliper is bolted down to the rotor with two allen key bolts but when I try to remove the bolt, it seems as if its stuck and i can%26#039;t remove it (I%26#039;m guessing its really tight due to the fact that the pads were never changed in 5 years). I want to change the pads myself, so does anyone have a method to loose the bolts so that I can remove them and change the brake pads? Is there a tool I can buy that will help me remove them because I only have regular allen keys? |||spray the bolts with WD40
You really need a socket set with allen key sockets. Also a breaker bar(a peace of pipe that you slide over the socket wrench to give you more torc). |||the calliper should be split into two parts the calliper it self and the carrier the calliper will split from the carrier.the bolts on the carrier will tight hell but the bolts that bolt the calliper to he carrier should be able to be undo using regular allen keys use the ring end of a spanner to get more leverage on the allan key hope this helps|||Spray some penetrating oil (liquid wrench) on the threads to help loosen then. If you have a socket wrench get a socket with the correct size hex key.|||first make sure you turnning them the right way and maybe try bumpping it with a hammer i always remover top off master and push back the old pads with a screwdriver before removing bolts|||man if you only have allen key sthen your gonna have a problen.
you need at least a breaker bar and a allen socket instead of the key.
you need leverage to break off the nut, its on there tight.
spray some wd-40, it helps.
heres the breaker bar
http://www.redboxtools.com/detail.cfm?pr鈥?/a>
heres the sockets
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016ZWQXC?smid鈥?/a>
|||Howard has it right, If they are stuck try penetrating fluid like wd40 or liquid wrench (brake cleaner also will work if you have nothing else). If it is still stuck, get a allen socket for a ratchet. Use a socket that has a 3/8 inch drive or a 1/2 inch drive, a 1/4 inch drive may break. I always use allen sockets for disk brakes because of the extra leverage. Usually those bolts are slightly rusted and the added leverage is necessary. If you are planning to do your brakes on your vehicle yourself for the duration of the vehicle the allen socket is an excellent and wise investment witch is only a couple of bucks or so at an automotive or hardware store.
You really need a socket set with allen key sockets. Also a breaker bar(a peace of pipe that you slide over the socket wrench to give you more torc). |||the calliper should be split into two parts the calliper it self and the carrier the calliper will split from the carrier.the bolts on the carrier will tight hell but the bolts that bolt the calliper to he carrier should be able to be undo using regular allen keys use the ring end of a spanner to get more leverage on the allan key hope this helps|||Spray some penetrating oil (liquid wrench) on the threads to help loosen then. If you have a socket wrench get a socket with the correct size hex key.|||first make sure you turnning them the right way and maybe try bumpping it with a hammer i always remover top off master and push back the old pads with a screwdriver before removing bolts|||man if you only have allen key sthen your gonna have a problen.
you need at least a breaker bar and a allen socket instead of the key.
you need leverage to break off the nut, its on there tight.
spray some wd-40, it helps.
heres the breaker bar
http://www.redboxtools.com/detail.cfm?pr鈥?/a>
heres the sockets
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016ZWQXC?smid鈥?/a>
|||Howard has it right, If they are stuck try penetrating fluid like wd40 or liquid wrench (brake cleaner also will work if you have nothing else). If it is still stuck, get a allen socket for a ratchet. Use a socket that has a 3/8 inch drive or a 1/2 inch drive, a 1/4 inch drive may break. I always use allen sockets for disk brakes because of the extra leverage. Usually those bolts are slightly rusted and the added leverage is necessary. If you are planning to do your brakes on your vehicle yourself for the duration of the vehicle the allen socket is an excellent and wise investment witch is only a couple of bucks or so at an automotive or hardware store.
How much do they usually charge to change car brakes?
I%26#039;m talking about a regular car, such as a Saturn 2000. I need to have them replaced but I don%26#039;t want to get ripped off. So how much would you say is a reasonable price?
Thanks|||How long is a piece of string? It depends on a variety of factors, including whether you rotors will need to be changed or turned.
So, the charge would be the cost of parts, plus the labor rate multiplied by the time to do the job. If you just need new pads you would be talking about a $100 per axle. If it goes beyond that there would be more parts, rotors alone run $50 or more, plus more time to do to the job.|||its easier and cheaper to do it yourself.
Thanks|||How long is a piece of string? It depends on a variety of factors, including whether you rotors will need to be changed or turned.
So, the charge would be the cost of parts, plus the labor rate multiplied by the time to do the job. If you just need new pads you would be talking about a $100 per axle. If it goes beyond that there would be more parts, rotors alone run $50 or more, plus more time to do to the job.|||its easier and cheaper to do it yourself.
Can I change my car brakes one side at a time?
Im changing my 1992 toyota paseo car brakes one at a time since Im going to use the jack the car came with, is it okay to change one side, and then lower the vehicle and then do the other side? any ups or downs to this?|||Yeah you can do that just be sure you get a jack stand also don%26#039;t depend on the Jack alone,also be sure to pump your brakes after your done,(before moving vehicle)|||Yeah, that%26#039;s the normal method. when they say you need to replace both at the same time, they just mean %26quot;Don%26#039;t do one tire and completely ignore the other one%26quot;. By the time you put the jack away, both brakes should be replaced. Jack up one side, replace the pads, put the tire back on, repeat for the other side.|||Yes, you can do that. A couple of recommendations: If you%26#039;re using the jack that came with the car, do not at any time get under the car or put any part of your body under the car in case it collapses. Those jack are flimsy. Pay a little extra and buy ceramic pads. Cheap semi-metallic pads have a good chance of squeaking or squealing. Use disc brake grease on any places where the brake pads will be touching the calipers. This will help ensure no squealing during the break-in period. After you are done, check the brake fluid level before you pump the brakes. The fluid lelvel will drop when you pump th brakes, as the caliper pistons extend. You don%26#039;t want air to get sucked into the brake lines.|||Thats best|||Is this a %26quot;Trick Question??%26quot;|||no you have to change them in pairs . they wear evenly . if they dont you have a problam|||seriously man..common sense..
Is there any difference when changing the brakes on a car with ABS than w/o ABS?
I%26#039;ve heard that it is quite difficult to change brake pads and turning rotors on a vehicle with ABS than on e w/o is this true? Any advice/tips would be greatly appreciated?|||On the vehicles I have worked on and changed brakes on, there isn%26#039;t any difference. The ABS is a computer system that regulates the pressure of the fluid. Only issues you might have are if you let the fluid in the reservoir drain out when bleeding. Then, you run the risk of getting an air bubble stuck in the ABS system. Otherwise, its no different.|||No. They are exactly the same.|||No difference in the pads and rotors, its just the breaking system is computer controlled to apply the breaks intermittently to prevent skidding..........#######|||There%26#039;s a big difference. If you%26#039;re not sure, (Absolutely sure) of what you%26#039;re doing, then leave it to the professionals or those who know what they%26#039;re doing. I%26#039;ve been a mechanic for over thirty years, and still have trouble with ABS equiped vehicles.|||when you push back the caliper piston the fluid that goes back to the master cylinder has dirt in it that can damage the abs you should lossen the bleeder and push the piston back ,and make shore that the abs senor doesn%26#039;t have little bits of metal stuck to the magnet|||I%26#039;ve never done brakes on a vehicle without ABS to my recollection, and none of the vehicles I%26#039;ve ever done brakes on have been difficult. Most cases only involve removing the tire and wheel, 2-4 bolts for the caliper, change the pads, and re-install. Some vehicles even have a 2-piece caliper that is ridiculously easy to work on.|||who ever told you that is full of crap it is the same set up on the calipers|||Some abs equipped vehicles are impossible to bleed without the proper electronic equipment. If all you are doing is a simple pad/rotor change, you should be okay.
Changing car brakes?
I have a 1996 bmw 318 and I need to change the rear brake pads. Is it easy to do it yourself or is it best to just take it to a shop and have it done by professionals? Thanks for the help.|||It%26#039;s not difficult...it%26#039;s not even complicated. If you can change a tire and swing a rubber mallet, you can change disc brakes. (You said brake pads...I%26#039;m therefore assuming you have discs on the back.)
You%26#039;ll need:
All the tools required to remove a tire (jack, stand, lug wrench)
Rubber mallet (not essential but very handy)
Brake caliper spreader (can be had for $5 at a parts store)
Brake parts cleaner solvent(ditto)
New brake pads
New brake rotors (simplest) or have the old rotors machined/turned (usually cheapest)
Ratchet %26amp; socket for removing caliper assy (My %26#039;90 Buick used a Torx T-50--you%26#039;ll need to look and see what yours are)
Once you have all the right tools, the job takes about 30 minutes a side first time through.|||you won%26#039;t save enough money doing it yourself to make it worthwhile..take it to a shop. at least you%26#039;ll know it was done right and you won%26#039;t have to bother with it|||yourself. back ones might be a littttttttle bit harder than the front, but not much. it%26#039;ll cost you about 200 to have someone else do it. a lot of people like buying that car%26#039;s brakes.. (BMW) and just do it urself. try to get someone to show u once or twice
its easy. my first time, my uncle showed me only and i did it in 30 mins for the front two.|||if you have rotors in the back then its a cinch just like the front, if you have drums, well those are fun with the springs and all. I%26#039;d suggest takin it to a shop if you have drums. Unless your willing to go and buy a Haynes or Chilton book and spend an afternoon learning how to do drums =)
You%26#039;ll need:
All the tools required to remove a tire (jack, stand, lug wrench)
Rubber mallet (not essential but very handy)
Brake caliper spreader (can be had for $5 at a parts store)
Brake parts cleaner solvent(ditto)
New brake pads
New brake rotors (simplest) or have the old rotors machined/turned (usually cheapest)
Ratchet %26amp; socket for removing caliper assy (My %26#039;90 Buick used a Torx T-50--you%26#039;ll need to look and see what yours are)
Once you have all the right tools, the job takes about 30 minutes a side first time through.|||you won%26#039;t save enough money doing it yourself to make it worthwhile..take it to a shop. at least you%26#039;ll know it was done right and you won%26#039;t have to bother with it|||yourself. back ones might be a littttttttle bit harder than the front, but not much. it%26#039;ll cost you about 200 to have someone else do it. a lot of people like buying that car%26#039;s brakes.. (BMW) and just do it urself. try to get someone to show u once or twice
its easy. my first time, my uncle showed me only and i did it in 30 mins for the front two.|||if you have rotors in the back then its a cinch just like the front, if you have drums, well those are fun with the springs and all. I%26#039;d suggest takin it to a shop if you have drums. Unless your willing to go and buy a Haynes or Chilton book and spend an afternoon learning how to do drums =)
Car: changing front brakes??
dose any one have a video tutorial on how to change your front car brakes. best answer gets 10 points.|||Get a repair manual or go to your local library to see if they have a free one. Or check the major brake supplies like Bendix to see if their web site has any free stuff.|||If you can%26#039;t figure it out yourself i don;t think a tutorial is going to help much. It%26#039;s not very complicated get the tire and rim off then its only 2 more bolts in most cases.|||brakes are pretty east to do but if you dont know how to do them, other than looking at a manual you should be able to look and figure them out. if you are not comfortable doing them still you should probably have them done by someone because they are a safety concern if done wrong.
Changing car brakes and caliper won't open?
I%26#039;m changing my brake pads on my 96 Taurus and got to the point where I needed to reset the calipers but they won%26#039;t budge...please help me|||Does the piston have a plus sign style groove in it? You may have to turn them back, not just push it back like many others. My moms car had rear disc brakes where this was the case. You can buy a tool that looks like the frame of a box. It goes onto a ratchet and has diffrent prongs on all sides for diffrent vehicles. You simply ratchet it backwards. Also make sure you remove the cap for the brake fluid resevoir to allow to fluid and pressure to have a place to go. Good luck!|||If they are front discs you need a large 6%26quot; C-clamp.
If it%26#039;s on the rear discs, you%26#039;ll probably have to rent the special tool from the AutoParts store, usually for free.
If it%26#039;s on the rear discs, you%26#039;ll probably have to rent the special tool from the AutoParts store, usually for free.
What is the fair price for changing car 2 front brakes?
I%26#039;ve got the part already but just need fitting. thank you|||Should be no more than an hours labour at a typical 拢50 plus a little for consumerbles like brake dust cleaner and maybe some high melt point grease - say 拢57.50 the lot.
More if you use a franchised dealer or are located in the south, less in the north.|||I wish I could fully understand your terminology. When you say: (Fit) do you mean install? If you%26#039;re from Great Britain I%26#039;d be interested in knowing what particular brake rotors and pads are among the best.
A pound is worth $1. (dollar) and .623 (cents). In the USA you would have to get the brakes installed buy a new car dealer or a really private mechanic who works for cash. A new car dealer would charge between 45 - 49 pounds which is equal to $80.00. A private mechanic would charge 25% less.|||it depends on what is being changed and everything that they do to to repair the brakes...
are they installing new rotors, turning the rotors or just installing new pads?
are you replacing the calipers or just reusing the old ones...?
are you replacing the wheel bearings, repacking them, or just leaving them alone?
you could be paying $79.95 for a set of new pads, or you could pay $500 bucks or more for new pads, rotors, and calipers...
it depends.|||Pretty much what other people have said. If it is a slightly more fiddly job then about one and a half hours labour charge is pretty standard down south. If it is a simple car and straight forward job about an hour labour is right. If it is an older vehicle look out for additional work that might need to be carried out such as lubricating the brake caliper slides and of course there will be sundries to pay such as a brake cleaner.|||The fact that you,ve got the parts yourself will not go in your favour and you will pay more for labour as a result in a reputable garage with high overheads because there is no profit to be made on the spares by the garage.Your best bet is to locate a competent back street single operator who would charge you around 拢30 for the task|||It`s impossible to give you a answer without the make and model of your car.|||50 bucks at least thats what i charge for front pads and 60 for drums|||100 dollars is fair....dealer price 175/200
More if you use a franchised dealer or are located in the south, less in the north.|||I wish I could fully understand your terminology. When you say: (Fit) do you mean install? If you%26#039;re from Great Britain I%26#039;d be interested in knowing what particular brake rotors and pads are among the best.
A pound is worth $1. (dollar) and .623 (cents). In the USA you would have to get the brakes installed buy a new car dealer or a really private mechanic who works for cash. A new car dealer would charge between 45 - 49 pounds which is equal to $80.00. A private mechanic would charge 25% less.|||it depends on what is being changed and everything that they do to to repair the brakes...
are they installing new rotors, turning the rotors or just installing new pads?
are you replacing the calipers or just reusing the old ones...?
are you replacing the wheel bearings, repacking them, or just leaving them alone?
you could be paying $79.95 for a set of new pads, or you could pay $500 bucks or more for new pads, rotors, and calipers...
it depends.|||Pretty much what other people have said. If it is a slightly more fiddly job then about one and a half hours labour charge is pretty standard down south. If it is a simple car and straight forward job about an hour labour is right. If it is an older vehicle look out for additional work that might need to be carried out such as lubricating the brake caliper slides and of course there will be sundries to pay such as a brake cleaner.|||The fact that you,ve got the parts yourself will not go in your favour and you will pay more for labour as a result in a reputable garage with high overheads because there is no profit to be made on the spares by the garage.Your best bet is to locate a competent back street single operator who would charge you around 拢30 for the task|||It`s impossible to give you a answer without the make and model of your car.|||50 bucks at least thats what i charge for front pads and 60 for drums|||100 dollars is fair....dealer price 175/200
Changing car brakes?
CAN I CHANGE MY CARS BRAKES BY USING THE JACK THAT CAME WWITH THE CAR TO HOLD ONE SIDE OF THE CAR UP? i WILL ALSO PUT SOME MASON BRICKS(STRONG BRICKS) ALONGSIDE THE JACK SO INCASE THE JACK LOOSES IT, IS THIS OKAY? THANK YOU!!!!!!!!|||sure can!!|||you should be fine, but jack stands would be best.|||Yes, but spending a few pennies on some axle stands is a better idea as bricks, no matter how hard, can crumble if the car slips off the jack. http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php?鈥?/a>
Changing car brakes, change brake oil too?
Im having my front disc brakes changed on my 1992 toyota paseo. When they charge 150 dollars for parts and labor, does this mean that they also fill your car with new brake fluid, or do theyuse the same one already in it.|||Changing pads doesn%26#039;t lose any brake fluid. But if the pads are worn, putting new pads on will change the most recent orientation of the pistons. It%26#039;s a good idea to bleed the brakes a bit, just to get rid of the bit of fluid closest to the cylinders.
Ask the shop if they%26#039;ll bleed the brakes for you after they put on new pads.
This is also a good time to put a micrometer on the brake discs to make sure they%26#039;re not too thin and to take this opportunity to true them. This requires a bit of machining and some skill. See if this is included in the price.|||No, thats not included in the price. 150 dollars is dirt cheap, i paid triple that in the UK for new brakes.|||That does not include changing the brake fluid. You%26#039;d only need to do that if the fluid was bad for some unlikely reason, like contamination.
Ask the shop if they%26#039;ll bleed the brakes for you after they put on new pads.
This is also a good time to put a micrometer on the brake discs to make sure they%26#039;re not too thin and to take this opportunity to true them. This requires a bit of machining and some skill. See if this is included in the price.|||No, thats not included in the price. 150 dollars is dirt cheap, i paid triple that in the UK for new brakes.|||That does not include changing the brake fluid. You%26#039;d only need to do that if the fluid was bad for some unlikely reason, like contamination.
After changing brake pads, the car brakes seem to be activated all the time?
I changed front and rear disc brake pads on my 1998 GMC jimmy today. I took the car out for a spin, and it stops fine. The problem is that the brakes seem to be engaging the calipers all of the time, and the enging really has to work to keep the car moving. What have I done wrong?|||Just as a guess I would say that one of the brake calipers is not releasing and causing the brakes to bind. Did the calipers seem to press back into place easily? Are you sure you got all of the parts back in place correctly? Good luck.|||check the emerg. brake may be it needs to be loosened off
|||You may have to adjust the emergency brake cable on your jimmy, research it online, it%26#039;s pretty easy. Did you bleed them?|||You need to go back and get them readjusted|||You have either installed the wrong pads so as the calipers cannot float as the pads are too wide. You have installed the calipers without proper lubrication and the calipers are stuck, thus not able to fully release the brakes. You have adjusted the park brake improperly so as to have it on all the time. I suggest you drive it and feel all 4 wheels to see which one is getting hot and these are where you have done something wrong. You can usually smell the brakes that are burning hot. Then take them apart and check for interference fits and/or binding.|||the mecanic that did the job did not bleed the brakes right and there is air on the brake lines that is why you are having problems|||There could be rust on the calliper slides that is keeping them from opening up all the way. Or, if you installed the pads with a shim on the outside of the pad. (a thin piece of metal) it may be causing the pads to stay in contact with the rotors.|||Jack the car up and spin the wheels by hand to see which one is dragging.
If it is a front, you may have a stuck caliper.
If it is a rear, the emergengy brake cable may need to be backed off.|||Valente G got it right. You did not bleed your brakes or did not do it properly|||Check your parking brake, also check the fluid reservoir for too much brake fluid. Too much fluid puts pressure on the pads. Someone else already said to make sure the pads are the right ones,and installed right.
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|||You may have to adjust the emergency brake cable on your jimmy, research it online, it%26#039;s pretty easy. Did you bleed them?|||You need to go back and get them readjusted|||You have either installed the wrong pads so as the calipers cannot float as the pads are too wide. You have installed the calipers without proper lubrication and the calipers are stuck, thus not able to fully release the brakes. You have adjusted the park brake improperly so as to have it on all the time. I suggest you drive it and feel all 4 wheels to see which one is getting hot and these are where you have done something wrong. You can usually smell the brakes that are burning hot. Then take them apart and check for interference fits and/or binding.|||the mecanic that did the job did not bleed the brakes right and there is air on the brake lines that is why you are having problems|||There could be rust on the calliper slides that is keeping them from opening up all the way. Or, if you installed the pads with a shim on the outside of the pad. (a thin piece of metal) it may be causing the pads to stay in contact with the rotors.|||Jack the car up and spin the wheels by hand to see which one is dragging.
If it is a front, you may have a stuck caliper.
If it is a rear, the emergengy brake cable may need to be backed off.|||Valente G got it right. You did not bleed your brakes or did not do it properly|||Check your parking brake, also check the fluid reservoir for too much brake fluid. Too much fluid puts pressure on the pads. Someone else already said to make sure the pads are the right ones,and installed right.
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