The brakes on my car are going out. I think I've waited as long as I could to change them, but I still don't have the money to pay a mechanic. My dad usually does my brakes but this is a different car with different kinds of brakes. I'm thinking instructions will help him if he gets confused. Step by step please! Thank you!
How do you change the brakes on a Ford Taurus (1996)?
changing brakes on american cars is accually very easy. it should have a sliding brake caliper on it which only takes the right size allen wrench to remove.once you have taken the boltsout of the caliper you will need to put a screwdriver or something similar in between the brake pad and the brake rotor. you need to do this because there is a %26quot;piston%26quot; on the back side of the caliper that you need to depress in order to have enough room in between the brake pads to lift the caliper and pads off the rotor. once you have done this just look at the old pads and replace each pad with the new one that looks exactly the same. as a note, once you have the brake caliper off, you will need to push the piston even further into the caliper to allow more room for the new pads. this can be done with a pair of caliper vise grips. any parts store should know exactly what you need. once you have the new pads on the brake caliper, put it back into position on the rotor, and slide the bolts back in and tight them.
How do you change the brakes on a Ford Taurus (1996)?
they change out just like any other brake pads. Remove the wheel. remove the caliper bolt, flip caliper up, take out the old pad but in the new. Compress the caliper with a C clamp or something else. Put the caliper back down, put the bolt back in, put the wheel back on.
Be sure to check the rotors for damage if they were overdue for a change.
The brake Cyl requires a tool to rotate cup back into Caliper--On Gm it takes c - clamp;
The ford turn Clockwise,Auto-zone has them
Friday, September 23, 2011
Why would brakes fail then seem to come back after changing the Master Cylinder but occasionally not work?
I have a 2005 Ford Taurus that I am having brake problems with. On a long trip the front brakes suddenly stopped working. The pedal went all the way to the floor before the back brakes would finally stop the car. We bled the brakes and changed the Master Cylinder but it still didn't work. Took it to a mechanic and he bled the brakes again. It worked for about 30 miles but then stopped again. After letting it sit for two days it seems to be working right for the most part but the pedal is still slightly squishy and they went to the floor once, pumped them and it immediately started working again. Everyone I know is stumped, including the mechanic, so I'm wondering if there is anyone who knows what could be causing this to happen? If it makes a difference there is also a constant high pitched squeal coming from the right front tire when going down the road and the brakes started squealing again when stopping, shoes pads and rotors are new though.
Why would brakes fail then seem to come back after changing the Master Cylinder but occasionally not work?
They need to be bled agin, but RIGHT this time. Do you know if the master cylinder was bench-bled? If not, that is the problem. The reason the pedal keeps going from firm to squishy is because there is air in the system.
There is still air in the system somewhere. they may have to bleed all 4 bakes to get it all out. or at the proportioning valve. does the brake light come on?
Why would brakes fail then seem to come back after changing the Master Cylinder but occasionally not work?
did you get a new master cylinder? I have had bad ones right out of the box before. Rebuilts are not very reliable. The inconsistent braking could be a bypass in the master cylinder. Which means it is leaking internally. If the pedal is squishy, it probably isn't bled out well enough. Sit in the car and start it up, leave it in park and push on the brake pedal once and note how low it goes before it bottoms. Then VERY VERY VERY VERY slowly push down on the brake pedal and see how far down it goes. It will go even lower if it is bypassing. Repeat both steps and compare. If it is the same or higher, then it needs to be bled out very thoroughly. Maybe with a vacuum bleeder if he didn't bleed it before installing.
Check the brake proportioning valve. They can sometimes get air trapped in them if the master cylinder is not bled properly
I would check the vacuum canister, And the brake relay on a ford. Don't know what they call it but it cost.
Why would brakes fail then seem to come back after changing the Master Cylinder but occasionally not work?
They need to be bled agin, but RIGHT this time. Do you know if the master cylinder was bench-bled? If not, that is the problem. The reason the pedal keeps going from firm to squishy is because there is air in the system.
There is still air in the system somewhere. they may have to bleed all 4 bakes to get it all out. or at the proportioning valve. does the brake light come on?
Why would brakes fail then seem to come back after changing the Master Cylinder but occasionally not work?
did you get a new master cylinder? I have had bad ones right out of the box before. Rebuilts are not very reliable. The inconsistent braking could be a bypass in the master cylinder. Which means it is leaking internally. If the pedal is squishy, it probably isn't bled out well enough. Sit in the car and start it up, leave it in park and push on the brake pedal once and note how low it goes before it bottoms. Then VERY VERY VERY VERY slowly push down on the brake pedal and see how far down it goes. It will go even lower if it is bypassing. Repeat both steps and compare. If it is the same or higher, then it needs to be bled out very thoroughly. Maybe with a vacuum bleeder if he didn't bleed it before installing.
Check the brake proportioning valve. They can sometimes get air trapped in them if the master cylinder is not bled properly
I would check the vacuum canister, And the brake relay on a ford. Don't know what they call it but it cost.
My brakes were changed on my car but now thereis no pressure?
theres no pressure in my brake pedal even though the lines were blead and pads replaced but there was pressure before the new pads were put on what else could be the problem
My brakes were changed on my car but now thereis no pressure?
sounds like there is still air in the lines. can you %26quot;pump%26quot; them up to get hard? could be (but prob.not), bad master cylinder.
did a cert. mechanic bleed the brakes or weekend warrior? alot of people i know %26quot;think%26quot; they know how to bleed brakes and they really dont.
Let me know if you have any other questions. feel free to give me a yell at 866-712-1984 or email wgarrison@logixautoparts.com
Best wishes in the New Year!!!
logixautoparts.com
My brakes were changed on my car but now thereis no pressure?
You've still got air in the lines.
Keep bleeding them sometimes on older cars it takes awhile,it also be your master cylinder
adjust the rear brakes pump up the pedal when you start getting a pedal re-bleed the brakes starting at the furthest one from the master cylinder r/r then to l/r then r/f then l/f and you should be good
It could be that once you went to reapply the brakes that you did not refill enough brake fluid. Try adding more fluid and then pump the brakes manually, cause the brake pedal might be stuck all the way down and you may need to pull it up.
It is possible that the seals on the Master Cylinder or the brake seals came off during the brake job or after. If it is in the Master Cylinder, you will have to replace it, which would cost you like in the $100 to $200 range. If it is the brake seals, it should be cheaper. Take it back to where they did the brake job, if it wasn't too long ago, and tell them the problem, and ask them to check those items. It's extremely dangerous to drive the car in that condition, so don't.
Either someone didn't bleed the brakes the proper way, the master cylinder is bad, or the master cylinder has air in it. It is important when you bleed brakes that the person pumping the pedal keeps it pushed to the floor until the other person has tightened the bleeder screw. otherwise air will be sucked back into the brake line. Also you have to keep an eye on your brake fluid reservoir to make sure you don't run out of fluid while your bleeding the brakes, or any time period.
You could have a few different problems.
On disc brakes you could have a bad caliper.
Check for fluid on your tires and the ground.
On drum brakes you could have a bad wheel cylinder.
Check for fluid on the tires and the ground for this type also.
It could be a bad master cylinder too.
Check for fluid around the master cylinder.
It could also be that you do have air in the lines but you didn't say that either the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) were replaced and this is the only way air can enter the system during a brake job. If you did replace any of these item's then bleed them more and in the proper order. RR - LR - RF - LF
If you have drum brakes did you adjust them after installing the new shoes? That could be part of the problem.
My brakes were changed on my car but now thereis no pressure?
sounds like there is still air in the lines. can you %26quot;pump%26quot; them up to get hard? could be (but prob.not), bad master cylinder.
did a cert. mechanic bleed the brakes or weekend warrior? alot of people i know %26quot;think%26quot; they know how to bleed brakes and they really dont.
Let me know if you have any other questions. feel free to give me a yell at 866-712-1984 or email wgarrison@logixautoparts.com
Best wishes in the New Year!!!
logixautoparts.com
My brakes were changed on my car but now thereis no pressure?
You've still got air in the lines.
Keep bleeding them sometimes on older cars it takes awhile,it also be your master cylinder
adjust the rear brakes pump up the pedal when you start getting a pedal re-bleed the brakes starting at the furthest one from the master cylinder r/r then to l/r then r/f then l/f and you should be good
It could be that once you went to reapply the brakes that you did not refill enough brake fluid. Try adding more fluid and then pump the brakes manually, cause the brake pedal might be stuck all the way down and you may need to pull it up.
It is possible that the seals on the Master Cylinder or the brake seals came off during the brake job or after. If it is in the Master Cylinder, you will have to replace it, which would cost you like in the $100 to $200 range. If it is the brake seals, it should be cheaper. Take it back to where they did the brake job, if it wasn't too long ago, and tell them the problem, and ask them to check those items. It's extremely dangerous to drive the car in that condition, so don't.
Either someone didn't bleed the brakes the proper way, the master cylinder is bad, or the master cylinder has air in it. It is important when you bleed brakes that the person pumping the pedal keeps it pushed to the floor until the other person has tightened the bleeder screw. otherwise air will be sucked back into the brake line. Also you have to keep an eye on your brake fluid reservoir to make sure you don't run out of fluid while your bleeding the brakes, or any time period.
You could have a few different problems.
On disc brakes you could have a bad caliper.
Check for fluid on your tires and the ground.
On drum brakes you could have a bad wheel cylinder.
Check for fluid on the tires and the ground for this type also.
It could be a bad master cylinder too.
Check for fluid around the master cylinder.
It could also be that you do have air in the lines but you didn't say that either the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) were replaced and this is the only way air can enter the system during a brake job. If you did replace any of these item's then bleed them more and in the proper order. RR - LR - RF - LF
If you have drum brakes did you adjust them after installing the new shoes? That could be part of the problem.
If I am barrowing my brothers car for a few months and the brakes go out am I reasponsible?
Ive had it for about 3 months while I save up for another car I pay for all the gas and oil changes and I work for jiffy lube so I take care of all the preventive maintance. His rear drum brakes were replaced 10 years ago he says. So should I have to pay for this, even though it is going back to him in 2 months
If I am barrowing my brothers car for a few months and the brakes go out am I reasponsible?
the right thin to do is pay for the brakes to be fixed just because he let you use the car for awhile
If I am barrowing my brothers car for a few months and the brakes go out am I reasponsible?
When you use anyone else's vehicle, you should be responsible for ANY MAINTENANCE it needs while in your possession. Equally, if it is only a night or so, you need to return a vehicle in equal (or better) condition to what it was when you got it! (Like topping off the fuel tank)
well in most situations yes,because while your driving it you are responsible for keeping it up,so yes id pay for having them repaired,its not going to be that much,especially since he,s letting you use it for nothing i wouldn't question having to do a few small repairs to it,its still cheaper than paying a payment on one right now,good luck on it.
legaly returning it in the same condition, does not relate to wearable items such as brakes or tires. but for him being a good brother letting u use the car, i would for sure pay to put new brakes on it myself.
well if your in control of it, and if youve been paying for everything else and doing oil changes etc. then i would say yea you were using it for a few months its your responsibility, as it would be if you got a flat tire. be a good bro and dont try and stiff him and give his car back jacked up. that aint right!
we call that chicken $h1t
Yes you are responsible for anything that happens to the car because he left in it your care. Yes you should pay. Just think he was nice enough to loan it to you in the first place.
yep cause ur drivin it
a portion of it. a very liitle portion of it.
yes you should fix his brakes. common courtesy he is nice enough to borrow you his car. you can be nice enough to not give it back broken.
When I borrow something I always return it in as good as better condition as when I picked it up. I dought this is a law but it certainly is something you should do if you ever expect to borrow his car again. If you had borrowed it from me I wouldn't allow you to fix it but I would at least expect you to offer to get it repaired for me.
If you rented a car, then no it would be on him but saving the price of a rental, even a very cheap rental is $25.00 a day, so yes you should pay for the repairs and be glad you are able to borrow a car. Maybe try a taxi for a few days to put the car borrowing back in perspective.
That is something that needs to be worked out between you and your brother, and probably should have been in advance of borrowing it.car purchasing advice cat
If I am barrowing my brothers car for a few months and the brakes go out am I reasponsible?
the right thin to do is pay for the brakes to be fixed just because he let you use the car for awhile
If I am barrowing my brothers car for a few months and the brakes go out am I reasponsible?
When you use anyone else's vehicle, you should be responsible for ANY MAINTENANCE it needs while in your possession. Equally, if it is only a night or so, you need to return a vehicle in equal (or better) condition to what it was when you got it! (Like topping off the fuel tank)
well in most situations yes,because while your driving it you are responsible for keeping it up,so yes id pay for having them repaired,its not going to be that much,especially since he,s letting you use it for nothing i wouldn't question having to do a few small repairs to it,its still cheaper than paying a payment on one right now,good luck on it.
legaly returning it in the same condition, does not relate to wearable items such as brakes or tires. but for him being a good brother letting u use the car, i would for sure pay to put new brakes on it myself.
well if your in control of it, and if youve been paying for everything else and doing oil changes etc. then i would say yea you were using it for a few months its your responsibility, as it would be if you got a flat tire. be a good bro and dont try and stiff him and give his car back jacked up. that aint right!
we call that chicken $h1t
Yes you are responsible for anything that happens to the car because he left in it your care. Yes you should pay. Just think he was nice enough to loan it to you in the first place.
yep cause ur drivin it
a portion of it. a very liitle portion of it.
yes you should fix his brakes. common courtesy he is nice enough to borrow you his car. you can be nice enough to not give it back broken.
When I borrow something I always return it in as good as better condition as when I picked it up. I dought this is a law but it certainly is something you should do if you ever expect to borrow his car again. If you had borrowed it from me I wouldn't allow you to fix it but I would at least expect you to offer to get it repaired for me.
If you rented a car, then no it would be on him but saving the price of a rental, even a very cheap rental is $25.00 a day, so yes you should pay for the repairs and be glad you are able to borrow a car. Maybe try a taxi for a few days to put the car borrowing back in perspective.
That is something that needs to be worked out between you and your brother, and probably should have been in advance of borrowing it.
How much does it cost to change the brake pads in my car?
I have a Nissan Altima '97. I think it's just the front brakes that need replacing... How much should it cost at the garage to change if I don't buy my own? I'm a youngish girl and I'm aware they try to rip us off... ugh. :(
How much does it cost to change the brake pads in my car?
Buy the pads and have a friend do the work. The rotors will have to be turned or replaced. A garage would cost about $250, but that doesn't include replacing the rotors (in most cases).
How much does it cost to change the brake pads in my car?
Go the dealership and buy your own genuine pads and rotors. Many modern cars are designed to replace the rotors when the pads wear down anyway. They engineer things like this to save weight. You can do this job yourself with a few hand tools. Use ALLDATA data base found in many libraries, or a Haynes manual for your specific car brand. Keep the old rotors, have them inspected for proper thickness, and have them turned for the next time you need brakes. They probably are too thin, anyway. If they are re-usable, coat them in grease and sotre in wax paper. Don't forget that you need to have your brake fluid changed every 2-3 years. READ your owner's manual to understand why. Brake fluid wears out, just like oil and trans fluid. WHen it goes bad, the acids in it eat away at brake seals. Once again, use only GENUINE NISSAN brake fluid.. Mixing different brake fluids together can cause severe component issues. Good luck!!
The front brake pads should only cost 25$ or around there if you buy them from autozone and do it yourself. A reasonable charge for a shop to do it is 40$ - 50$ . The people who charge over that price should go kill themselves.
usually in a shop they charge around 50 - 100 per wheel.brakes ae simple im sure you have atleast one guy friend around who can do them.
How much does it cost to change the brake pads in my car?
Buy the pads and have a friend do the work. The rotors will have to be turned or replaced. A garage would cost about $250, but that doesn't include replacing the rotors (in most cases).
How much does it cost to change the brake pads in my car?
Go the dealership and buy your own genuine pads and rotors. Many modern cars are designed to replace the rotors when the pads wear down anyway. They engineer things like this to save weight. You can do this job yourself with a few hand tools. Use ALLDATA data base found in many libraries, or a Haynes manual for your specific car brand. Keep the old rotors, have them inspected for proper thickness, and have them turned for the next time you need brakes. They probably are too thin, anyway. If they are re-usable, coat them in grease and sotre in wax paper. Don't forget that you need to have your brake fluid changed every 2-3 years. READ your owner's manual to understand why. Brake fluid wears out, just like oil and trans fluid. WHen it goes bad, the acids in it eat away at brake seals. Once again, use only GENUINE NISSAN brake fluid.. Mixing different brake fluids together can cause severe component issues. Good luck!!
The front brake pads should only cost 25$ or around there if you buy them from autozone and do it yourself. A reasonable charge for a shop to do it is 40$ - 50$ . The people who charge over that price should go kill themselves.
usually in a shop they charge around 50 - 100 per wheel.brakes ae simple im sure you have atleast one guy friend around who can do them.
Car Brakes Squeaking?
i have a peugeot 306 and have just changed the brake pads and disks in the front and back as i have ABS. but when i go to break they squeak quite loudly, not all the time just most of the time, what cud it be as disks and pads r all new.
Car Brakes Squeaking?
If everything was done that should have been done then I would remove the pads and buff them up with emery paper. This will take off the glaze which will stop them squealing possibly temporarily. The long term solution is better quality pads and possibly discs.
Good Luck.h
Car Brakes Squeaking?
They meay just need bedding in, if they still do it after 100 miles get them checked (earlier if they get weak)
Have you cleaned the calipers %26amp; pistons properly?
Did you apply copper grease to the backs %26amp; edges of pad backings?
Did you fit all anti rattle clips %26amp; anti squeal shims?
I am guessing that brake noise reducer (a substance that can be applied to the back of the brake pads before they are inserted in the calipers) was not used.
have you checked that you don't have a mouse trapped in the calipers
it could be hard pads or just brake dust. try spraying them down with brake cleaner.
It may be the dust from your old pads, just clean the area
Two things, first the brakes will need to bed in over the next hundred or so miles. Second did you smear some copper grease on the back of the pads when you fitted them? If not you will need to remove the pads and apply a light smear to the back of the pads.
The copper grease will reduce the noise from the pads during the bedding in process. Remember to only apply the grease to the back of the pads and clean of any grease that there may be on the calipers or discs.
Ja.
Car Brakes Squeaking?
If everything was done that should have been done then I would remove the pads and buff them up with emery paper. This will take off the glaze which will stop them squealing possibly temporarily. The long term solution is better quality pads and possibly discs.
Good Luck.h
Car Brakes Squeaking?
They meay just need bedding in, if they still do it after 100 miles get them checked (earlier if they get weak)
Have you cleaned the calipers %26amp; pistons properly?
Did you apply copper grease to the backs %26amp; edges of pad backings?
Did you fit all anti rattle clips %26amp; anti squeal shims?
I am guessing that brake noise reducer (a substance that can be applied to the back of the brake pads before they are inserted in the calipers) was not used.
have you checked that you don't have a mouse trapped in the calipers
it could be hard pads or just brake dust. try spraying them down with brake cleaner.
It may be the dust from your old pads, just clean the area
Two things, first the brakes will need to bed in over the next hundred or so miles. Second did you smear some copper grease on the back of the pads when you fitted them? If not you will need to remove the pads and apply a light smear to the back of the pads.
The copper grease will reduce the noise from the pads during the bedding in process. Remember to only apply the grease to the back of the pads and clean of any grease that there may be on the calipers or discs.
Ja.
How can I change brake pads on my car by myself? Is there a website that tells how to do that?
Brake pads are not that hard to change, but instead of a website, you should go to an auto supply store and get the workshop manual for your car model/year range. Before you buy it, look through the section on changing brake pads, and see if it is something you are willing to do. Just remember, you life and the life of your passengers may depend on your brakes functioning correctly. Also, if you have it professionaly done by an honest shop, they will tell you if you really need to replace any other brake parts, like the rotors.
How can I change brake pads on my car by myself? Is there a website that tells how to do that?
If you have never done it before I suggest you not try it on your own. Your life depends on it. Maybe you can find someone who is familiar with the job.
Your best bet is just pay the mechanic to do it.
Good luck!
How can I change brake pads on my car by myself? Is there a website that tells how to do that?
What grandma g said.
first take off the tire, in the back of the metal wheel there's a tube, unscrew the tube and slide the pad off, replace it snap back and replace the tube, replace the tire and pupm the air out
Lets get this right, you do want to do it yourself, why? cheaper or you want the mechanical know how? It is not a good idea, look for a friendly mechanic and tell him you want to see it done, please, do not risk your (and others) life by doing yourself till you really know what you are doing, if done incorrectly the braking won't be even or safe. I do admire you for wanting to do it, just learn how first, then get checked before you go out.
When you buy brakes they come with instructions in the box.
Ask whom ever sell's you the brakes what tools you will need...
sure, what better way for you to learn how to be a mechanic than to start out on some thing that if you mess up you can get someone killed.
not the sharpest knife in the drawer.
you can get it at www.haynes.com, www.gearheadcafe.com you can get cd on certain vehicles there. or go to your local parts store and buy a repair manual there.
How can I change brake pads on my car by myself? Is there a website that tells how to do that?
If you have never done it before I suggest you not try it on your own. Your life depends on it. Maybe you can find someone who is familiar with the job.
Your best bet is just pay the mechanic to do it.
Good luck!
How can I change brake pads on my car by myself? Is there a website that tells how to do that?
What grandma g said.
first take off the tire, in the back of the metal wheel there's a tube, unscrew the tube and slide the pad off, replace it snap back and replace the tube, replace the tire and pupm the air out
Lets get this right, you do want to do it yourself, why? cheaper or you want the mechanical know how? It is not a good idea, look for a friendly mechanic and tell him you want to see it done, please, do not risk your (and others) life by doing yourself till you really know what you are doing, if done incorrectly the braking won't be even or safe. I do admire you for wanting to do it, just learn how first, then get checked before you go out.
When you buy brakes they come with instructions in the box.
Ask whom ever sell's you the brakes what tools you will need...
sure, what better way for you to learn how to be a mechanic than to start out on some thing that if you mess up you can get someone killed.
not the sharpest knife in the drawer.
you can get it at www.haynes.com, www.gearheadcafe.com you can get cd on certain vehicles there. or go to your local parts store and buy a repair manual there.
Almost no braking power after changing brake pads and bleeding the brakes 95 dodge neon non abs?
I recently changed my brake pads on a 95 dodge neon after they were changed out I took it for a test drive, the front driver side wheel started to smoke and smelled awful. I assumed it was a seized caliper so i replaced it from autozone with a new one.
After I got the new caliper on the same thing happened. A friend of mine told me it could be the brake line going to the caliper sometimes they will be damaged even though they look fine. I replaced that at autozone as well and got that on today and that seemed to fix the problem with the seized up caliper now I have almost no braking power at all. I tried to bleed the brakes several times and the pedal goes to the floor. When I have the car up on jackstands and put the car in drive and then push on the brakes it will stop but its nowhere near safe. I have checked all the bleeder valves to make sure they are tight, it doesnt have abs on it. when the car is off i can pump up the brakes no problem and it gets hard to push but as soon as i start the car the pedal hits the floor. I dont really have anymore money to sink into this car right now or i would try to replace the master cylinder.
Any help anyone could give would be great. Im not sure what else to do
Could someone tell me if the car is turned off and the pedal gets firm after i press down on it a few times could it still be caused by air in the system? a friend of mine said that if there was air in the system it would be soft when the car is off and on. is this true? i am hoping im just bleeding the brakes wrong or something and there is some quick easy fix. know my luck though its probably the master cylinder
The caliper i got was
Duralast Reman / Brake Caliper - Front
For your 1995 Dodge Neon 2.0L SFI SOHC 4cyl
Part Number: C424
Weight: 6.15 lbs
Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Notes: Driver side
The Brake hose i got was
Brakeware / Brake Hose - Front
For your 1995 Dodge Neon 2.0L SFI SOHC 4cyl
Part Number: 70656
Weight: 0.7 lbs
Almost no braking power after changing brake pads and bleeding the brakes 95 dodge neon non abs?
Simply sounds like you still have air in the lines. When the engine is off, pressing on the brake petal multiple times will pressurize the Master Brake cylender causing the brake petal to firm up, not reaching the floor anymore. As the engine is on the pressure is released and the petal will go back to normal operation... and in this case go to the floor as you compress air within the system.
Research online (one link provided) on proper ways to bleed the brakes and try again.
Testing the brakes via vehicle on blocks and running the tires will not be an effective test. In that case your only applying enough force to stop rotating a spinning tire, not 1 1/2 tons of car going down the street.
Almost no braking power after changing brake pads and bleeding the brakes 95 dodge neon non abs?
it's not the brakes or the master cylinder, it has power brakes and you probably bled the system with the engine off. with the engine off the pedal feels firm but when you start the car the pedal goes to the floor. Re bleed the brakes with the engine idling and you will notice a huge difference in pedal feel
if the peddle pumps up each time you pump the peddle then you still have air in the system
First yes the pedal will get hard if the engine is off. The brake booster needs vacuum to work correctly Replacing both caliper and hose may take a little longer to bleed the system. Bleed all the wheels starting with the rear pass side it is normally the furthest from the master cyl then the other rear then front pass then driver front. Bleed until clean fluid is coming from wheel cylinders.I guessing there was no problem with the brakes other than low pads to start. If the problem is still there then take it to a shop. Brakes are not to be guessed at Good Luck
after you got done bleeding the wheels did you refill the master cylinder? also did you bleed the brakes the right way? you start on the right rear then the left rear then you go to the right front then the left front. but if were just working on the front then the front wheels is the only ones you need to bleed.
After I got the new caliper on the same thing happened. A friend of mine told me it could be the brake line going to the caliper sometimes they will be damaged even though they look fine. I replaced that at autozone as well and got that on today and that seemed to fix the problem with the seized up caliper now I have almost no braking power at all. I tried to bleed the brakes several times and the pedal goes to the floor. When I have the car up on jackstands and put the car in drive and then push on the brakes it will stop but its nowhere near safe. I have checked all the bleeder valves to make sure they are tight, it doesnt have abs on it. when the car is off i can pump up the brakes no problem and it gets hard to push but as soon as i start the car the pedal hits the floor. I dont really have anymore money to sink into this car right now or i would try to replace the master cylinder.
Any help anyone could give would be great. Im not sure what else to do
Could someone tell me if the car is turned off and the pedal gets firm after i press down on it a few times could it still be caused by air in the system? a friend of mine said that if there was air in the system it would be soft when the car is off and on. is this true? i am hoping im just bleeding the brakes wrong or something and there is some quick easy fix. know my luck though its probably the master cylinder
The caliper i got was
Duralast Reman / Brake Caliper - Front
For your 1995 Dodge Neon 2.0L SFI SOHC 4cyl
Part Number: C424
Weight: 6.15 lbs
Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Notes: Driver side
The Brake hose i got was
Brakeware / Brake Hose - Front
For your 1995 Dodge Neon 2.0L SFI SOHC 4cyl
Part Number: 70656
Weight: 0.7 lbs
Almost no braking power after changing brake pads and bleeding the brakes 95 dodge neon non abs?
Simply sounds like you still have air in the lines. When the engine is off, pressing on the brake petal multiple times will pressurize the Master Brake cylender causing the brake petal to firm up, not reaching the floor anymore. As the engine is on the pressure is released and the petal will go back to normal operation... and in this case go to the floor as you compress air within the system.
Research online (one link provided) on proper ways to bleed the brakes and try again.
Testing the brakes via vehicle on blocks and running the tires will not be an effective test. In that case your only applying enough force to stop rotating a spinning tire, not 1 1/2 tons of car going down the street.
Almost no braking power after changing brake pads and bleeding the brakes 95 dodge neon non abs?
it's not the brakes or the master cylinder, it has power brakes and you probably bled the system with the engine off. with the engine off the pedal feels firm but when you start the car the pedal goes to the floor. Re bleed the brakes with the engine idling and you will notice a huge difference in pedal feel
if the peddle pumps up each time you pump the peddle then you still have air in the system
First yes the pedal will get hard if the engine is off. The brake booster needs vacuum to work correctly Replacing both caliper and hose may take a little longer to bleed the system. Bleed all the wheels starting with the rear pass side it is normally the furthest from the master cyl then the other rear then front pass then driver front. Bleed until clean fluid is coming from wheel cylinders.I guessing there was no problem with the brakes other than low pads to start. If the problem is still there then take it to a shop. Brakes are not to be guessed at Good Luck
after you got done bleeding the wheels did you refill the master cylinder? also did you bleed the brakes the right way? you start on the right rear then the left rear then you go to the right front then the left front. but if were just working on the front then the front wheels is the only ones you need to bleed.
Question about car brakes?
Hi, I've recently started noticing that when I brake on occasion my brakes will squeak. It doesn't happen everytime I brake, but I don't want to unintentionally ignore something that could be a problem. I had them checked and the brake pads replaced two months ago, so I know it isn't that (and it doesn't sound the same) ...the mechanic also said the only thing wrong with them were that the brake pads were almost down to the metal, he didn't mention anything about rotors or the brakes themselves, etc.
Does anyone have any ideas? I'm going out of town this weekend (4 hour drive one-way) so I definitely want to make sure my car is safe. I'm needing to get my oil changed as well, do any car service chains offer brake inspection in any of their packages, or do you think it isn't anything to worry about? I've had my car for almost 4 years, but it doesn't misbehave so I haven't had to deal with issues like this :) ...it has about 55,000 miles on it, and is a 2002 Honda Civic.
Sorry, a lot of questions, I know. Haha.
Question about car brakes?
To save u money do it urself but have someone wit u to help u out if u need the help yes its ur breaks but its u..
Question about car brakes?
If you had low-grade pads installed, the squeaking might be normal. These pads are semi-metallic, and tend to squeak. Just to be safe, you can ask the person who changes your oil to check your brakes for you. That would be a good idea. Make sure it is a reputable place, or someone that you trust.
how bad is the squeak? if it's a screech, that's bad. squeaks? not too bad. perhaps your mechanic didn't use the shims that came with the new pads, if they were even in the box at all.
how recently were the pads replaced? if it was yesterday, give them some time to wear-in to the rotors.
It's most likely not a problem - but you might want to take it back and have them inspect it just in case.
Sometimes a little bit of the ferrite that they put in the pads to make them squeak when they are getting closer to wearing out gets too far towards the face of the pad.
Sounds like you might have some brake dust building up.It's not a safety issue,but it can be very annoying.There is a product that most car parts stores sell.It comes in a can,and you can spray it on the rotors to get rid of the built up brake dust.I hope this helps.
Rule of thumb,
Brakes squeak, you have a little time to get them checked or replaced
Brakes squeel, time for a replacement this weekend.
Brakes grind, get'em fixed now.
Hope this helps!finger nails blue database
Does anyone have any ideas? I'm going out of town this weekend (4 hour drive one-way) so I definitely want to make sure my car is safe. I'm needing to get my oil changed as well, do any car service chains offer brake inspection in any of their packages, or do you think it isn't anything to worry about? I've had my car for almost 4 years, but it doesn't misbehave so I haven't had to deal with issues like this :) ...it has about 55,000 miles on it, and is a 2002 Honda Civic.
Sorry, a lot of questions, I know. Haha.
Question about car brakes?
To save u money do it urself but have someone wit u to help u out if u need the help yes its ur breaks but its u..
Question about car brakes?
If you had low-grade pads installed, the squeaking might be normal. These pads are semi-metallic, and tend to squeak. Just to be safe, you can ask the person who changes your oil to check your brakes for you. That would be a good idea. Make sure it is a reputable place, or someone that you trust.
how bad is the squeak? if it's a screech, that's bad. squeaks? not too bad. perhaps your mechanic didn't use the shims that came with the new pads, if they were even in the box at all.
how recently were the pads replaced? if it was yesterday, give them some time to wear-in to the rotors.
It's most likely not a problem - but you might want to take it back and have them inspect it just in case.
Sometimes a little bit of the ferrite that they put in the pads to make them squeak when they are getting closer to wearing out gets too far towards the face of the pad.
Sounds like you might have some brake dust building up.It's not a safety issue,but it can be very annoying.There is a product that most car parts stores sell.It comes in a can,and you can spray it on the rotors to get rid of the built up brake dust.I hope this helps.
Rule of thumb,
Brakes squeak, you have a little time to get them checked or replaced
Brakes squeel, time for a replacement this weekend.
Brakes grind, get'em fixed now.
Hope this helps!
Changing breaks on 1989 Buick Lesabre?
I was just wondering, how would I go about changing the front brakes on this car? I have changed breaks on a 2002 Toyota Camry, but have never changed brakes on an American car. Is it different? Thanks for anyone who can help me out on this. I don't want to take it to a mechanic because it's just too much money. Thanks again for anyone who can help.
Changing breaks on 1989 Buick Lesabre?
You need a Star Drive socket that you can get from an autoparts store, along with the new pads and rotors if you need them.
Put your car on jack stands, then pull the wheels. Use the star drive socket to remove the caliper from the rotor. The bolt is behind the caliper so you'll turn the socket towards yourself and undo it from behind the top of the caliper. You can then remove the old pads, and before you put the new ones on, make sure you put the anti-squeel paste on the back.
At this point, you probably need a spreader to open the caliper and get the new pads around the rotor. You probably want to inspect the rotor, if it's too thin it will need to be replaced. If the surface is too grooved, you will need to have it turned. It's not a bad idea to have them turned anyway.
Assembly is exactly reverse of the removal. Torq the bolt down to spec.
If you saw any brake fluid while working with your brakes, or if anything looks out of whack, have a professional take a look.
Changing breaks on 1989 Buick Lesabre?
it is the same as my 1988 oldsmobile. jack it up, take off the wheel, use a c-clamp and compress the caliper piston back in, take out the bolts, they are probably those star bolts. if they are they take a t-50 star bit. take the bolts out and remove the caliper and pads. if the caliper don,t wan to off the rotor lift it up with a big screwdriver, before putting it back together clean the slides where the caliper bolts up to and put a little high temperature grease on the slides.
Changing breaks on 1989 Buick Lesabre?
You need a Star Drive socket that you can get from an autoparts store, along with the new pads and rotors if you need them.
Put your car on jack stands, then pull the wheels. Use the star drive socket to remove the caliper from the rotor. The bolt is behind the caliper so you'll turn the socket towards yourself and undo it from behind the top of the caliper. You can then remove the old pads, and before you put the new ones on, make sure you put the anti-squeel paste on the back.
At this point, you probably need a spreader to open the caliper and get the new pads around the rotor. You probably want to inspect the rotor, if it's too thin it will need to be replaced. If the surface is too grooved, you will need to have it turned. It's not a bad idea to have them turned anyway.
Assembly is exactly reverse of the removal. Torq the bolt down to spec.
If you saw any brake fluid while working with your brakes, or if anything looks out of whack, have a professional take a look.
Changing breaks on 1989 Buick Lesabre?
it is the same as my 1988 oldsmobile. jack it up, take off the wheel, use a c-clamp and compress the caliper piston back in, take out the bolts, they are probably those star bolts. if they are they take a t-50 star bit. take the bolts out and remove the caliper and pads. if the caliper don,t wan to off the rotor lift it up with a big screwdriver, before putting it back together clean the slides where the caliper bolts up to and put a little high temperature grease on the slides.
A car is traveling at a velocity of 40km/h and brakes in 5.0 seconds. How much must velocity change each sec.?
A car is traveling at a velocity of 40km/h and brakes in 5.0 seconds. How much must velocity change each second?
the answer is -2.2m/s
but i want to know how to get that answer.
A car is traveling at a velocity of 40km/h and brakes in 5.0 seconds. How much must velocity change each sec.?
I converted the speed to m/s
40 km/h= about 11m/s
He then comes to a stop in 5 sec.
We will use this information to find acceleration, which will lead to the change in speed per sec.
a= (change in speed)/t
change in speed= -11 m/s
t= 5 sec
a= -11/5, which comes out to be -2.2m/s虏, which is how much he slows down in 1 sec.
A car is traveling at a velocity of 40km/h and brakes in 5.0 seconds. How much must velocity change each sec.?
V = -40/3.6 = -11.11 m/s
11.11m/s/5s = -2.22 m/s虏
well first convert 40 km/h into m/s
40km x 1000m x 1h
-------- --------- ----
1 h 1km 3600s
the km cancel and the hours cancel and u get 11.1 m/s
then divide 11.1m/s by 5s to get how many meters u stop per second and u get 2.2m/s. but then u must make it negative because u are decreasing velocity. if u were increasing it would be positive.
40 km/h to zero in 5 secs
=8 km/h in 1 sec, or 8km/h/sec
Now 8 km = 8000 metres,
so we're talking about 8000 metres/h/sec
= 8000/3600 metres/sec/sec (3600 seconds in an hour)
= 2.22 metres /sec each second.
V=40 km/h = 11.1111111 meters / second
T= 5 s
a=V/T %26quot;and add the - sign!%26quot;
you take it from here
good luck
the answer is -2.2m/s
but i want to know how to get that answer.
A car is traveling at a velocity of 40km/h and brakes in 5.0 seconds. How much must velocity change each sec.?
I converted the speed to m/s
40 km/h= about 11m/s
He then comes to a stop in 5 sec.
We will use this information to find acceleration, which will lead to the change in speed per sec.
a= (change in speed)/t
change in speed= -11 m/s
t= 5 sec
a= -11/5, which comes out to be -2.2m/s虏, which is how much he slows down in 1 sec.
A car is traveling at a velocity of 40km/h and brakes in 5.0 seconds. How much must velocity change each sec.?
V = -40/3.6 = -11.11 m/s
11.11m/s/5s = -2.22 m/s虏
well first convert 40 km/h into m/s
40km x 1000m x 1h
-------- --------- ----
1 h 1km 3600s
the km cancel and the hours cancel and u get 11.1 m/s
then divide 11.1m/s by 5s to get how many meters u stop per second and u get 2.2m/s. but then u must make it negative because u are decreasing velocity. if u were increasing it would be positive.
40 km/h to zero in 5 secs
=8 km/h in 1 sec, or 8km/h/sec
Now 8 km = 8000 metres,
so we're talking about 8000 metres/h/sec
= 8000/3600 metres/sec/sec (3600 seconds in an hour)
= 2.22 metres /sec each second.
V=40 km/h = 11.1111111 meters / second
T= 5 s
a=V/T %26quot;and add the - sign!%26quot;
you take it from here
good luck
Why do I hear a clicking sound on the front right side of my car when I step on the brakes?
I never had that clicking sound before but I recently had both my axles changed and after I got the car back from the mechanic I noticed this happening now but not always though, once in a while only. What could be the cause of this? Is it something the mechanic did?
Why do I hear a clicking sound on the front right side of my car when I step on the brakes?
I would take it back to him and have him check it. It could in fact be something that will go away on its own, but it could be a lof of things, ABS modules, improperly lubricated axle bearings, etc. If you wait, he wont warrantee it if something goes wrong.
Why do I hear a clicking sound on the front right side of my car when I step on the brakes?
this is interesting because I am having the same problem with my car. I wait to read some answers...
abs system working properly does your vehicle have abs light they may have removed it, turn key on look at lights look for abs to come on. does ur vehicle have abs? do u feel anything when u brake?
Take it back right away. It could be something minor, but if he say... forgot to tighten the lower ball joint and it falls out or breaks... that could be bad.
sounds like a brake pad is loose, also check the caliper to see if they tightened it.
it does not matter what the cause is. you paid a man to fix it and it wasn't done right. Get over there and complain. and keep complaining until it's right.
What if it caused you to lose control of the car and someone were killed or injured? Or it caused you to break down in the middle of no where etc?
I know u said the clicking starts when u brake, but how about when u turn? Honestly ur problem sounds like its more with your axle than ne thing. I would definently take it back and have it looked at. i had a similar in my integra and it was the axle the whole way!
Why do I hear a clicking sound on the front right side of my car when I step on the brakes?
I would take it back to him and have him check it. It could in fact be something that will go away on its own, but it could be a lof of things, ABS modules, improperly lubricated axle bearings, etc. If you wait, he wont warrantee it if something goes wrong.
Why do I hear a clicking sound on the front right side of my car when I step on the brakes?
this is interesting because I am having the same problem with my car. I wait to read some answers...
abs system working properly does your vehicle have abs light they may have removed it, turn key on look at lights look for abs to come on. does ur vehicle have abs? do u feel anything when u brake?
Take it back right away. It could be something minor, but if he say... forgot to tighten the lower ball joint and it falls out or breaks... that could be bad.
sounds like a brake pad is loose, also check the caliper to see if they tightened it.
it does not matter what the cause is. you paid a man to fix it and it wasn't done right. Get over there and complain. and keep complaining until it's right.
What if it caused you to lose control of the car and someone were killed or injured? Or it caused you to break down in the middle of no where etc?
I know u said the clicking starts when u brake, but how about when u turn? Honestly ur problem sounds like its more with your axle than ne thing. I would definently take it back and have it looked at. i had a similar in my integra and it was the axle the whole way!
Merrill92 9.RC.10] The internal force of a car's brakes can stop a car. Which of the following is a valid reas
Merrill92 9.RC.10] The internal force of a car's brakes can stop a car. Which of the following is a valid reason why:
Because the car is an isolated system.
Because the internal force causes an external force to act on the car.
Because the car does not undergo a change in momentum when it stops.
Because the internal force is a frictional force.
Merrill92 9.RC.10] The internal force of a car's brakes can stop a car. Which of the following is a valid reas
Because the internal force causes an external force to act on the car.
Gravity+friction
Because the car is an isolated system.
Because the internal force causes an external force to act on the car.
Because the car does not undergo a change in momentum when it stops.
Because the internal force is a frictional force.
Merrill92 9.RC.10] The internal force of a car's brakes can stop a car. Which of the following is a valid reas
Because the internal force causes an external force to act on the car.
Gravity+friction
My brakes stopped working when I was backing up my car! What happened? Check engine light came on earlier too?
I was backing up into a parking spot earlier today when my brakes stopped working. They just didnt work and then went stiff. I pulled my Ebrake so luckily i didnt hit anything/anyone. After I turned off and restarted my car it worked again. Earlier in the day the check engine light came on, possibly its related? Also 10 minutes before the brakes stopped working I took my in for an oil change. Anyone knows what might have happened? Is it safe to drive. The brakes seem to be working fine now but, I dont know what went wrong and if it could do it again. Any help would be appreciated!
My brakes stopped working when I was backing up my car! What happened? Check engine light came on earlier too?
you might be low on brake fluid
My brakes stopped working when I was backing up my car! What happened? Check engine light came on earlier too?
Get your car checked out NOW.
It could be the Power Booster or other problem. Get it checked out. You know you have a problem and are in-dangering others. Your fault if accident happens.
How much Liability Insurance do you have? 2 or 10 million dollars?
Get it looked at NOW.
your brake fluid level might be really low or there could be a problem in your brake lines such as a block. I would take it to a reapair shop to have the brakes looked at.
No, if you have a problem that renders your brakes not effective, your car isn't safe to drive. As to whether the check engine light, or the oil change has any connection, I have no idea. You might ask your mechanic about that when you have it towed in to him for repairs.
The brake booster is failing, It works off the vacuum from the engine which is why the check engine light came on. It may be as simple as a vacuum leak. The only way to tell is to have a vacuum test done. And no it is not safe to drive.
The Anti Lock Brake system is operated by a electric pump that maintains a minimum amount of pressure. The system constantly checks itself and if there is a failure it will trigger the Check Engine light. It could also result in the failure of the brakes.
The computer on the car stores events that trigger the light, and can be retrieved by your mechanic with a diagnostic scanner. It will tell them exactly what caused the light to come on.
Your brake vacuum booster may be leaking.That would cause the check engine light to come on due to loss of vacuum and the brakes would not operate with power assist (very hard pedal).
ADDITIONAL:P lease get the brake system checked immediately,if this failure happens again during driving it could cause you to loose normal braking.
ALSO!!!! check the rubber hose that goes from the intake manifold to the brake vacuum booster,the mechanic may have inadvertently damaged (cracked ) the hose or pulled it partially off the manifold or brake booster.
Please, please, please get your brakes and the rest of your car checked.. It's very, very scary to have the brakes suddenly go out. That happened to me a number of yrs. ago, I went to stop at a traffic signal on a busy main street and when I pushed the pedal NOTHING happened ! The pedal just sunk down to the floor... Luckily, I had an older car that decelerated quickly and I was able to coast all the way home.. However, I wouldn't suggest that either....
first i would check your brake fluid level if its low enough you might of got air in all the lines you'll have to bleed all for brake cylinders, calipers ect. second i would check the brake booster vacuum line if that came off or is cracked that will cause the brake pedal to be stiff. also i would have the master cylinder checked. but i would not drive the car until a mechanic checks it because you cause a accident and possibly kill someone over a stupid but serious problem.does anyone know virtual barber shop
My brakes stopped working when I was backing up my car! What happened? Check engine light came on earlier too?
you might be low on brake fluid
My brakes stopped working when I was backing up my car! What happened? Check engine light came on earlier too?
Get your car checked out NOW.
It could be the Power Booster or other problem. Get it checked out. You know you have a problem and are in-dangering others. Your fault if accident happens.
How much Liability Insurance do you have? 2 or 10 million dollars?
Get it looked at NOW.
your brake fluid level might be really low or there could be a problem in your brake lines such as a block. I would take it to a reapair shop to have the brakes looked at.
No, if you have a problem that renders your brakes not effective, your car isn't safe to drive. As to whether the check engine light, or the oil change has any connection, I have no idea. You might ask your mechanic about that when you have it towed in to him for repairs.
The brake booster is failing, It works off the vacuum from the engine which is why the check engine light came on. It may be as simple as a vacuum leak. The only way to tell is to have a vacuum test done. And no it is not safe to drive.
The Anti Lock Brake system is operated by a electric pump that maintains a minimum amount of pressure. The system constantly checks itself and if there is a failure it will trigger the Check Engine light. It could also result in the failure of the brakes.
The computer on the car stores events that trigger the light, and can be retrieved by your mechanic with a diagnostic scanner. It will tell them exactly what caused the light to come on.
Your brake vacuum booster may be leaking.That would cause the check engine light to come on due to loss of vacuum and the brakes would not operate with power assist (very hard pedal).
ADDITIONAL:P lease get the brake system checked immediately,if this failure happens again during driving it could cause you to loose normal braking.
ALSO!!!! check the rubber hose that goes from the intake manifold to the brake vacuum booster,the mechanic may have inadvertently damaged (cracked ) the hose or pulled it partially off the manifold or brake booster.
Please, please, please get your brakes and the rest of your car checked.. It's very, very scary to have the brakes suddenly go out. That happened to me a number of yrs. ago, I went to stop at a traffic signal on a busy main street and when I pushed the pedal NOTHING happened ! The pedal just sunk down to the floor... Luckily, I had an older car that decelerated quickly and I was able to coast all the way home.. However, I wouldn't suggest that either....
first i would check your brake fluid level if its low enough you might of got air in all the lines you'll have to bleed all for brake cylinders, calipers ect. second i would check the brake booster vacuum line if that came off or is cracked that will cause the brake pedal to be stiff. also i would have the master cylinder checked. but i would not drive the car until a mechanic checks it because you cause a accident and possibly kill someone over a stupid but serious problem.
Screeching noise coming from my car--something to do with transmission fluid?
I have a 2000 Honda Civic with 130,000 miles on it (it's been mostly a commuter car). A family member recently borrowed it for a few weeks, and said it was making horrible noises and took it in and got the front brakes replaced. He said that the mechanic said we should also get our transmission fluid changed.
Just a few days ago (about 2 weeks since the brakes were changed) it started making horrible screeching noises when we back up, or even just regularly driving. Is this because we need our transmission fluid changed or something else?
I've read that getting the transmission fluid changed on cars with high mileage can actually do damage to the car--if this is true, what am I supposed to do? Keep driving with the old fluid or is there another option?
Please help! We're poor newlywed college students and don't want to spend more money than we have to to get this fixed, but don't want the car to die on us either! Thanks!
Screeching noise coming from my car--something to do with transmission fluid?
no,it wont hurt anything to change the tranny fluid.i did and mine has over 100,000 miles and it didnt hurt my tranny,but it doesnt sound like its your tranny.it sounds like the brakes,orthe mechanic put the brakes on wrong.does it make noise just when you apply the brakes,if so then its in the brake system.
Screeching noise coming from my car--something to do with transmission fluid?
i sujest u take it to a meachanic
Just a few days ago (about 2 weeks since the brakes were changed) it started making horrible screeching noises when we back up, or even just regularly driving. Is this because we need our transmission fluid changed or something else?
I've read that getting the transmission fluid changed on cars with high mileage can actually do damage to the car--if this is true, what am I supposed to do? Keep driving with the old fluid or is there another option?
Please help! We're poor newlywed college students and don't want to spend more money than we have to to get this fixed, but don't want the car to die on us either! Thanks!
Screeching noise coming from my car--something to do with transmission fluid?
no,it wont hurt anything to change the tranny fluid.i did and mine has over 100,000 miles and it didnt hurt my tranny,but it doesnt sound like its your tranny.it sounds like the brakes,orthe mechanic put the brakes on wrong.does it make noise just when you apply the brakes,if so then its in the brake system.
Screeching noise coming from my car--something to do with transmission fluid?
i sujest u take it to a meachanic
Why do my car Shake when I go to put on Brakes if I am over 60 miles per Hr?
I just had my Front Pads and Rotors changed 2 months ago and my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe brakes fine. In the last week or so when I go over 60 miles per hr and go to break my car starts to shake or something like a knocking I hope you understand what I am trying to say. It is not the engie it is only when I go to put on brakes if I am over 60 miles per hour and I am gentle when I go to put on breaks.
Why do my car Shake when I go to put on Brakes if I am over 60 miles per Hr?
Have your rotors or drums turned becuase they become out of balance and or is known as worped.To have them turned is called truing them back to origional condition.And have your tires rebalanced and torqued to the right specs.And most likely everything will stop the from shaking on the front end or back end.
Why do my car Shake when I go to put on Brakes if I am over 60 miles per Hr?
Sounds like your rotors may be warped.
I still think it is the rotors. Hard spots on the rotors.
Did it stop when you had them changed and then start up again after a while?
Did they cut or 'turn' the rotors or replace them with new ones? And where they aftermarket or OEM?
I'd go back to the place that did the job and be assertive about getting it fixed correct.
could be tires out of balance or also sticking brake calipers
Your wheels/tires probably need to be balanced. You may also have air in the brake line. A certified mechanic can these items out and get you back on the road for under a $100
A couple thoughts:
Really sounds like a bad rotor....or a caliper that is not acting right. Might want to go back to garage that did the work.
Tire balance is a possiblity...but I would think you would feel it at other times.
YOUR ROTORS ARE WARPED EVEN THOUGH THEY ARE NEW SOME TIME WE SILL HAVE TO RESURFACE THEM TAKE IT BAKE TO THE SHOP THAT DID THE WORK THEY WILL UNDERSTAND
It's your Rotor or Rotors they where not turned correctly, Plain and simple. Best thing to do is go to a parts place like auto-zone pick up a set of new ones which is not but a few dollars more than having them turned and have someone esle put them on. 1 hour job. -- With it acting like it is now watch out on wet roads. GOOD LUCK
You need a front end alignment. Have you hit a huge pothole in the recent past? That will do it. Also, have the dealership or your mechanic check the lifters.
Possibilities: Tire balance, bent/damaged wheel, loose wheel, loose rotor, damaged rotor (rear rotor maybe?), a problem with the caliper(s). Take it back to the shop that did the brake job, or take it to one of those places that will do a free brake inspection.
Sounds like your tires are out of balance. That is what was wrong with mine when I had that problem.
Why do my car Shake when I go to put on Brakes if I am over 60 miles per Hr?
Have your rotors or drums turned becuase they become out of balance and or is known as worped.To have them turned is called truing them back to origional condition.And have your tires rebalanced and torqued to the right specs.And most likely everything will stop the from shaking on the front end or back end.
Why do my car Shake when I go to put on Brakes if I am over 60 miles per Hr?
Sounds like your rotors may be warped.
I still think it is the rotors. Hard spots on the rotors.
Did it stop when you had them changed and then start up again after a while?
Did they cut or 'turn' the rotors or replace them with new ones? And where they aftermarket or OEM?
I'd go back to the place that did the job and be assertive about getting it fixed correct.
could be tires out of balance or also sticking brake calipers
Your wheels/tires probably need to be balanced. You may also have air in the brake line. A certified mechanic can these items out and get you back on the road for under a $100
A couple thoughts:
Really sounds like a bad rotor....or a caliper that is not acting right. Might want to go back to garage that did the work.
Tire balance is a possiblity...but I would think you would feel it at other times.
YOUR ROTORS ARE WARPED EVEN THOUGH THEY ARE NEW SOME TIME WE SILL HAVE TO RESURFACE THEM TAKE IT BAKE TO THE SHOP THAT DID THE WORK THEY WILL UNDERSTAND
It's your Rotor or Rotors they where not turned correctly, Plain and simple. Best thing to do is go to a parts place like auto-zone pick up a set of new ones which is not but a few dollars more than having them turned and have someone esle put them on. 1 hour job. -- With it acting like it is now watch out on wet roads. GOOD LUCK
You need a front end alignment. Have you hit a huge pothole in the recent past? That will do it. Also, have the dealership or your mechanic check the lifters.
Possibilities: Tire balance, bent/damaged wheel, loose wheel, loose rotor, damaged rotor (rear rotor maybe?), a problem with the caliper(s). Take it back to the shop that did the brake job, or take it to one of those places that will do a free brake inspection.
Sounds like your tires are out of balance. That is what was wrong with mine when I had that problem.
Why one of my car brakes is sticking?
It's a Mercury Sable 96, the rear left pads are sticking with the rotor after driving 8-10 kms and start to make a continuous and loud noise (friction), when I stop I check all wheels and only this one is hot and smelling burnt, I changed the caliper 2 months ago because of this, the noise dissapear but since 2 days ago it started again, yesterday I changed the brake hose of this wheel because I thought the old one was clogged and the problem is still there. The noise only dissapears when I hit the brakes, but as soon as I loose the pedal the noise starts again. Does it have something to do with a malfunctioning ABS system, could it be the bearing that is coming hot and transfering the heat to the rotor and pads?
Why one of my car brakes is sticking?
I think your bearing is bad and the play is causing the brake to touch.
If you jack up the wheel, you should not be able to move the top of the tire in and out at all.
If there is any play replace your wheel bearings.
Why one of my car brakes is sticking?
replace the brake master cylinder...this is in front of the brake booster (hydrovac).
It can be a fault on the wheel bearing,
Jack up the car, grip the top and bottom of the wheel,
try rocking the wheel top and bottom and side to side,
if any movement is present re-new the bearings.
You may also have a problem with your brake master
cylinder, check the opposite front brake to make sure it's not binding, if it is the problem will be in the master cylinder.
You might want to get this car into shop for repairs because you may have some worn rotors here?
I had this problem with my 95 Tarsus a few months ago. I took it to CarX and they said it was the brake adjuster. Cost was $27 to have them replace it.
Best bet is to take your car to a place you trust and have them look at it.
Why one of my car brakes is sticking?
I think your bearing is bad and the play is causing the brake to touch.
If you jack up the wheel, you should not be able to move the top of the tire in and out at all.
If there is any play replace your wheel bearings.
Why one of my car brakes is sticking?
replace the brake master cylinder...this is in front of the brake booster (hydrovac).
It can be a fault on the wheel bearing,
Jack up the car, grip the top and bottom of the wheel,
try rocking the wheel top and bottom and side to side,
if any movement is present re-new the bearings.
You may also have a problem with your brake master
cylinder, check the opposite front brake to make sure it's not binding, if it is the problem will be in the master cylinder.
You might want to get this car into shop for repairs because you may have some worn rotors here?
I had this problem with my 95 Tarsus a few months ago. I took it to CarX and they said it was the brake adjuster. Cost was $27 to have them replace it.
Best bet is to take your car to a place you trust and have them look at it.
What brand of brakes are recommended for a 2005 Nissan Altima?
Instead of paying too much at Nissan maintenance center, I know someone that is capable of changing brake pads. What type work best for my car?
What brand of brakes are recommended for a 2005 Nissan Altima?
the recommended brakes for the car are factory nissan pads and rotors.
What brand of brakes are recommended for a 2005 Nissan Altima?
It depends on which auto supply place you go to. PepBoys carries ProStop and I've used them on my Acura, Honda, Lexus and they seem to work just fine. Just make sure you get a %26quot;premium%26quot; pad rather than the cheaper pads.
If you want to treat yourself, then Brembo makes one of the best brake parts (pad, rotors, calipers, etc.).
The brake rotors are around 40 at Autozone and the pads are 30 both with a lifetime warranty. There just as good but cost less. Good Luck and GOD Bless
What brand of brakes are recommended for a 2005 Nissan Altima?
the recommended brakes for the car are factory nissan pads and rotors.
What brand of brakes are recommended for a 2005 Nissan Altima?
It depends on which auto supply place you go to. PepBoys carries ProStop and I've used them on my Acura, Honda, Lexus and they seem to work just fine. Just make sure you get a %26quot;premium%26quot; pad rather than the cheaper pads.
If you want to treat yourself, then Brembo makes one of the best brake parts (pad, rotors, calipers, etc.).
The brake rotors are around 40 at Autozone and the pads are 30 both with a lifetime warranty. There just as good but cost less. Good Luck and GOD Bless
A car is traveling at 30 mph on a level road when the brakes are applied to bring it to a screaching halt?
a) Describe any change in the car's potential energy, if there is any.
b) Describe any change in the car's kinetic energy, if there is any.
c) During the stop sound is created and the tires become hot. Where did the energy for these actions come from? This is an example of what basic principle of science?
Short answers OK, you'll get 10 points.
THANKS!
A car is traveling at 30 mph on a level road when the brakes are applied to bring it to a screaching halt?
a) There is no change in potential energy unless the heat energy gained by the brakes and tires is regarded as potential energy. ( you could, say, whip off the brake discs and fry an egg on them. )
b) The Kinetic energy of the car is reduced to zero.
c) The KE is converted to heat energy by the brakes and tires. And a little bit of sound energy. The energy came from the KE that the car loses.
The basic principle illustrated is The Conservation of Energy - Energy cannot be created or destroyed. It can only be transferred or transformed.
To be absolutely correct that should read %26quot;The conservation of Mass/Energy %26quot; since mass and energy are interchangable - the same thing.
A car is traveling at 30 mph on a level road when the brakes are applied to bring it to a screaching halt?
a) momentum slows down
b) idk
c) conduction heat, thermal energy
a. potential (energy at rest) energy approaches maximum
b. kinetic (energy in motion) energy approaches minimum
c. the kinetic energy of the tires is converted into heat energy.
d. Principle of Science: Energy is neither created nor destroyed, it can only transformed from one form to another.
well, applying the brakes is kinectic energy because it is the action used to bringing it to the given speed.
and ummmm i know that the potential energy turned to thermal energy.
sorry i couldn't elaborate more!
p.s. pick me as the best answer :)dynamic editing streamreader
b) Describe any change in the car's kinetic energy, if there is any.
c) During the stop sound is created and the tires become hot. Where did the energy for these actions come from? This is an example of what basic principle of science?
Short answers OK, you'll get 10 points.
THANKS!
A car is traveling at 30 mph on a level road when the brakes are applied to bring it to a screaching halt?
a) There is no change in potential energy unless the heat energy gained by the brakes and tires is regarded as potential energy. ( you could, say, whip off the brake discs and fry an egg on them. )
b) The Kinetic energy of the car is reduced to zero.
c) The KE is converted to heat energy by the brakes and tires. And a little bit of sound energy. The energy came from the KE that the car loses.
The basic principle illustrated is The Conservation of Energy - Energy cannot be created or destroyed. It can only be transferred or transformed.
To be absolutely correct that should read %26quot;The conservation of Mass/Energy %26quot; since mass and energy are interchangable - the same thing.
A car is traveling at 30 mph on a level road when the brakes are applied to bring it to a screaching halt?
a) momentum slows down
b) idk
c) conduction heat, thermal energy
a. potential (energy at rest) energy approaches maximum
b. kinetic (energy in motion) energy approaches minimum
c. the kinetic energy of the tires is converted into heat energy.
d. Principle of Science: Energy is neither created nor destroyed, it can only transformed from one form to another.
well, applying the brakes is kinectic energy because it is the action used to bringing it to the given speed.
and ummmm i know that the potential energy turned to thermal energy.
sorry i couldn't elaborate more!
p.s. pick me as the best answer :)
Is there a place i can go to get a hand with fixing my car.?
My passenger side window won't roll up. it's electric. its raining i dont think it has fallen off track . i really dont want to take it to a mechanic because i know they will charge me hourly to find the wiring throughout the car. i am a girl but i know a little bit about cars. i can change brake pads and a tire and i know how to change an alternator, i can sometimes tell whats wrong with a car by the sounds it makes (i have had so many) what should i do?
Is there a place i can go to get a hand with fixing my car.?
If you can't help, just say you want the 2pts. and move on - but don't give lame advice. (You know who you are...)
Give me a minute and I'll see what I can do to help you - K? I'll be right back...
OK, this is the only website I have so far:
http://www.misterfixit.com
it's not the best; you have to scroll thru a bunch of babble... but it might help for now, and it's free. :)
back again... i just went to http://www.google.com and typed in - I need to fix my cars electical windows - many things came up that might help you to fix your windows.
Another suggestion: the transportation dept. in your city... school bus mechanics, tour bus mechanics, taxi mechanics... some of these guys run fix-it-shops out of their homes and charge MUCH CHEAPER RATES than others.
High schools and colleges need cars to fix (for training their students) and are willing to do the work for free or next to nothing.
On LAFB there is a shop where the military guys go to play around, (their hobby) w/ cars, and they are always quick to offer their help/knowledge/insight. Great guys. There are also %26quot;car shows%26quot; here every weekend in the Library parking lot. Those guys LOVE working on cars/showing them off/helping you figure out what yours needs...
I hope something here has helped you.
God bless you Sweetheart. And good for you that you do your best to take care of yourself, and NOT let others take advantage of you! :)
Is there a place i can go to get a hand with fixing my car.?
take it to the dealer or a repair shop
Just do it yourself
you are such a mechanic
The motor went out...$150 for labor and $50 for the motor..
Good Luck with all that...
You can take it to a company that installs car windows. It doesn't have to be a mechanic unless it is an electrical problem. You don't really have much of a choice.
Unless you know someone that would do you a favor like that the only option is to go to a mechanic. Yeah its expensive but you're not the only one with a car problem.
Get one of those Chilton library books that show the repair drawings for your car. Check out the window mechanisms. If you can't hear the motor maybe a fuse has blown. If you hear noise and bumping the operator or gears might need replacement. If you hear the motor but no motion it might be the connection from the operator to the window. Are you sure it is still on the track - can you slide it up and down by hand? Good luck.
I had a problem with my car regarding my driver side window not rolling up awhile back. I have power windows and I believe the motor is about to go. I went to my dealership and they gave me a little tip that you can try. If you have power windows, turn your car on, and while holding the window button (in the window going up position), use your fist and strike the door in a sort of upperward position kind of below where the handle to the door is (on the inside of the door). Keep holding the button and keep doing it until it rolls up. It worked for me several times and haven't had a problem with my windows again so far. Though it may not be a permanent solution, it might at least get your windows up in case it rains or so no one breaks into your car.
You can try you Technical school they usaully have opening that they use your car for the student to work on and I think you get the parts for wholsale or something like that. You need to check with them. If you really want to get handy maybe you might think about taking class or two there as well.
Some community colleges have a auto class and it is sometime free or cheap to have them work on it for you. The first thing you should do is check the fusees and make sure they are not blown. the next thing is with the switch on and the door open try movng the wires that go into the door. A lot of the time a wire willl short where it goes in the door.
You did not specify what kind of location you live in. Around military bases especially there are cooperative groups. I forget their names. But it is part of the MWR, morale, welfare, and recreation. They have cooperative garages with bays with lifts, expensive items, lifts, pullers, etc. down to good tool sets. You can rent the tools. Along with the tools comes a knowledgeable person who can advise but not do the work. I have never seem them on the civilian side but I do not live near a large city. Your next bet would be a training site for mechanics. That would be a junior college trade school or high school shop class. They would have rules in the way though.
Now if you would actually join the National Guard or other branch of services, you could probably access the military base MWR garage.
The best investment I ever made is buying a Haynes manual for your specific car. These manuals can be purchases at your local parts store. They average between $10 -$25.
Buy a cheap voltmeter and a general tool kit. You will be surprised at what you can accomplish and the money you save while doing your own repairs.
Buy about 10ft of wire. If the switch is bad you can hook one end of the wire to the +of the battery and the other end of the wire to window switch to get the window up for now. Most electrical failures occur because of dirt. Buy some electrical contact cleaner and spray it in the switch. It might help.
Is there a place i can go to get a hand with fixing my car.?
If you can't help, just say you want the 2pts. and move on - but don't give lame advice. (You know who you are...)
Give me a minute and I'll see what I can do to help you - K? I'll be right back...
OK, this is the only website I have so far:
http://www.misterfixit.com
it's not the best; you have to scroll thru a bunch of babble... but it might help for now, and it's free. :)
back again... i just went to http://www.google.com and typed in - I need to fix my cars electical windows - many things came up that might help you to fix your windows.
Another suggestion: the transportation dept. in your city... school bus mechanics, tour bus mechanics, taxi mechanics... some of these guys run fix-it-shops out of their homes and charge MUCH CHEAPER RATES than others.
High schools and colleges need cars to fix (for training their students) and are willing to do the work for free or next to nothing.
On LAFB there is a shop where the military guys go to play around, (their hobby) w/ cars, and they are always quick to offer their help/knowledge/insight. Great guys. There are also %26quot;car shows%26quot; here every weekend in the Library parking lot. Those guys LOVE working on cars/showing them off/helping you figure out what yours needs...
I hope something here has helped you.
God bless you Sweetheart. And good for you that you do your best to take care of yourself, and NOT let others take advantage of you! :)
Is there a place i can go to get a hand with fixing my car.?
take it to the dealer or a repair shop
Just do it yourself
you are such a mechanic
The motor went out...$150 for labor and $50 for the motor..
Good Luck with all that...
You can take it to a company that installs car windows. It doesn't have to be a mechanic unless it is an electrical problem. You don't really have much of a choice.
Unless you know someone that would do you a favor like that the only option is to go to a mechanic. Yeah its expensive but you're not the only one with a car problem.
Get one of those Chilton library books that show the repair drawings for your car. Check out the window mechanisms. If you can't hear the motor maybe a fuse has blown. If you hear noise and bumping the operator or gears might need replacement. If you hear the motor but no motion it might be the connection from the operator to the window. Are you sure it is still on the track - can you slide it up and down by hand? Good luck.
I had a problem with my car regarding my driver side window not rolling up awhile back. I have power windows and I believe the motor is about to go. I went to my dealership and they gave me a little tip that you can try. If you have power windows, turn your car on, and while holding the window button (in the window going up position), use your fist and strike the door in a sort of upperward position kind of below where the handle to the door is (on the inside of the door). Keep holding the button and keep doing it until it rolls up. It worked for me several times and haven't had a problem with my windows again so far. Though it may not be a permanent solution, it might at least get your windows up in case it rains or so no one breaks into your car.
You can try you Technical school they usaully have opening that they use your car for the student to work on and I think you get the parts for wholsale or something like that. You need to check with them. If you really want to get handy maybe you might think about taking class or two there as well.
Some community colleges have a auto class and it is sometime free or cheap to have them work on it for you. The first thing you should do is check the fusees and make sure they are not blown. the next thing is with the switch on and the door open try movng the wires that go into the door. A lot of the time a wire willl short where it goes in the door.
You did not specify what kind of location you live in. Around military bases especially there are cooperative groups. I forget their names. But it is part of the MWR, morale, welfare, and recreation. They have cooperative garages with bays with lifts, expensive items, lifts, pullers, etc. down to good tool sets. You can rent the tools. Along with the tools comes a knowledgeable person who can advise but not do the work. I have never seem them on the civilian side but I do not live near a large city. Your next bet would be a training site for mechanics. That would be a junior college trade school or high school shop class. They would have rules in the way though.
Now if you would actually join the National Guard or other branch of services, you could probably access the military base MWR garage.
The best investment I ever made is buying a Haynes manual for your specific car. These manuals can be purchases at your local parts store. They average between $10 -$25.
Buy a cheap voltmeter and a general tool kit. You will be surprised at what you can accomplish and the money you save while doing your own repairs.
Buy about 10ft of wire. If the switch is bad you can hook one end of the wire to the +of the battery and the other end of the wire to window switch to get the window up for now. Most electrical failures occur because of dirt. Buy some electrical contact cleaner and spray it in the switch. It might help.
How to change brake pads on my car?
I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am (6 cylinder). I want to change the brake pads. I bought the pads already. I just need to know what else I will need and maybe some pointers so I don't mess up. Thank you much
How to change brake pads on my car?
Go to the autozone.com website, register, enter your vehicle info in the profile, and click %26quot;repair info%26quot; then %26quot;view repair guide%26quot;. Click %26quot;brakes%26quot; then %26quot;front(?) disc brakes%26quot;. There you will find links to sections on calipers, pads, and rotors.
This will cover the basics, but is far from everything you really should know to do a brake job. For example, it doesn't mention that you should lubricate the sliding mechanism.
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/鈥?/a>
It doesn't mention shims or anti-rattle clips. It doesn't tell you what tools you will need. It doesn't tell you that the rotor should be either re-surfaced or replaced, or that the rotor will probably be too thin after going through one set of pads to be legally resurfaced because they are very thin to start with.
Worst of all, it doesn't tell you that you should replace the cover for the master cylinder before pumping the brakes, so that brake fluid (which eats paint) doesn't end up all over your drivers side fender. Well, OK, maybe that's not the worst that could happen, but it does kinda bite.
btw, if the setup they're using on Grand Ams is similar to what they're using on Grand Prix's of the same vintage, you won't need a TORX (star socket LOL) bit. It's a totally different design. TEVES calipers, not Delco-Moraine.
And you won't need to bleed the brakes. How a guy who thinks that gets a 32% rating is beyond me.
How to change brake pads on my car?
Don't allow any fluid out of, or air into, the brake lines, and do not attempt to change the fluid. If you mess it up, you'll lose control of the brakes and crash into something hard and heavy and you'll die, and your family won't even have anyone around to sue.
Does that go some way to explaining how extremely careful you should be with your brake lines?
That said, you can change the pads yourself, of course you can. Just don't 'bleed the brakes' like others have suggested, unless you're a fully licensed and fully qualified mechanic. And even then, better to have someone else to hold to account if something goes wrong.
Well if you insist on doing it yourself this is how. After you take the tire off there should be two bolts holding on the caliper which is what holds the brake pads. Take the two bolts off and then pull the caliper off the rotor which is the big metallic disc. It will be hard to pull off but it will come off. Then take the pads out and use a big c clamp to compress the piston on the caliper make sure to remove the reservoir cap on the brake fluid under the hood then put the new pads in. Then put the caliper back on the rotor and bolt it down. Now you have to bleed the brake to get all of the air out of the line. There should be a small nipple looking bolt on the back of the caliper. You will need some one else to help. Someone needs to get in the car and pump the brakes and hold them to the floor while there doing that someone else needs to loosen that nipple and let the fluid come out and then tighten it back up before the person lets there foot off the brake. Do that three or four times and make sure there is plenty of brake fluid in the reservoir.
well let,s see ! you will need a c-clamp to push the caliper piston back in and either a allen wrench or a star socket, probably it takes a star. ok jack up the car, put jack stands under it for safety, take off the wheel, run a couple of nuts on the rotor to keep it straight, take a 3/8 drive ratchet and the star socket or allen head and take the caliper bolts out but leave the caliper on the rotor for right now. now take your c-clamp and run the piston back in all the way, take the c-clamp off and remove the caliper. change the pads, clean off the slides where the caliper bolts to and smear a small amount of high temperature grease on the slides, put the caliper back on, tighten the bolts, take the 2 nuts off the rotor, put the tire back on and tighten the lug nuts. now do the same on the other side. you won,t need to bleed the brakes because you don,t have to loosen any hoses or lines. putting pads on won,t put air in the lines.
there is a lot of videos about replacing brakepads on youtube. it wasn't really hard if you pay attention from those videos. First you should have all the tools you might need. Floorjack, jackstand, c-clamp probably to push the piston in. 17%26quot; socket to remove two bolts (they are kinda tight) that holds caliper and brake cleaner. Goodluck
You'll need a Torx bit and ratchet to loosen the caliper. You will need a large C-clamp (6-8 inch) to compress the piston in the brake caliper.
If it's your first time, you'll need to have someone who's done
this properly to help guide you. There's too much riding on your brakes to just dive in...
Good Luck on your front brake job..
How to change brake pads on my car?
Go to the autozone.com website, register, enter your vehicle info in the profile, and click %26quot;repair info%26quot; then %26quot;view repair guide%26quot;. Click %26quot;brakes%26quot; then %26quot;front(?) disc brakes%26quot;. There you will find links to sections on calipers, pads, and rotors.
This will cover the basics, but is far from everything you really should know to do a brake job. For example, it doesn't mention that you should lubricate the sliding mechanism.
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/鈥?/a>
It doesn't mention shims or anti-rattle clips. It doesn't tell you what tools you will need. It doesn't tell you that the rotor should be either re-surfaced or replaced, or that the rotor will probably be too thin after going through one set of pads to be legally resurfaced because they are very thin to start with.
Worst of all, it doesn't tell you that you should replace the cover for the master cylinder before pumping the brakes, so that brake fluid (which eats paint) doesn't end up all over your drivers side fender. Well, OK, maybe that's not the worst that could happen, but it does kinda bite.
btw, if the setup they're using on Grand Ams is similar to what they're using on Grand Prix's of the same vintage, you won't need a TORX (star socket LOL) bit. It's a totally different design. TEVES calipers, not Delco-Moraine.
And you won't need to bleed the brakes. How a guy who thinks that gets a 32% rating is beyond me.
How to change brake pads on my car?
Don't allow any fluid out of, or air into, the brake lines, and do not attempt to change the fluid. If you mess it up, you'll lose control of the brakes and crash into something hard and heavy and you'll die, and your family won't even have anyone around to sue.
Does that go some way to explaining how extremely careful you should be with your brake lines?
That said, you can change the pads yourself, of course you can. Just don't 'bleed the brakes' like others have suggested, unless you're a fully licensed and fully qualified mechanic. And even then, better to have someone else to hold to account if something goes wrong.
Well if you insist on doing it yourself this is how. After you take the tire off there should be two bolts holding on the caliper which is what holds the brake pads. Take the two bolts off and then pull the caliper off the rotor which is the big metallic disc. It will be hard to pull off but it will come off. Then take the pads out and use a big c clamp to compress the piston on the caliper make sure to remove the reservoir cap on the brake fluid under the hood then put the new pads in. Then put the caliper back on the rotor and bolt it down. Now you have to bleed the brake to get all of the air out of the line. There should be a small nipple looking bolt on the back of the caliper. You will need some one else to help. Someone needs to get in the car and pump the brakes and hold them to the floor while there doing that someone else needs to loosen that nipple and let the fluid come out and then tighten it back up before the person lets there foot off the brake. Do that three or four times and make sure there is plenty of brake fluid in the reservoir.
well let,s see ! you will need a c-clamp to push the caliper piston back in and either a allen wrench or a star socket, probably it takes a star. ok jack up the car, put jack stands under it for safety, take off the wheel, run a couple of nuts on the rotor to keep it straight, take a 3/8 drive ratchet and the star socket or allen head and take the caliper bolts out but leave the caliper on the rotor for right now. now take your c-clamp and run the piston back in all the way, take the c-clamp off and remove the caliper. change the pads, clean off the slides where the caliper bolts to and smear a small amount of high temperature grease on the slides, put the caliper back on, tighten the bolts, take the 2 nuts off the rotor, put the tire back on and tighten the lug nuts. now do the same on the other side. you won,t need to bleed the brakes because you don,t have to loosen any hoses or lines. putting pads on won,t put air in the lines.
there is a lot of videos about replacing brakepads on youtube. it wasn't really hard if you pay attention from those videos. First you should have all the tools you might need. Floorjack, jackstand, c-clamp probably to push the piston in. 17%26quot; socket to remove two bolts (they are kinda tight) that holds caliper and brake cleaner. Goodluck
You'll need a Torx bit and ratchet to loosen the caliper. You will need a large C-clamp (6-8 inch) to compress the piston in the brake caliper.
If it's your first time, you'll need to have someone who's done
this properly to help guide you. There's too much riding on your brakes to just dive in...
Good Luck on your front brake job..
Car brakes?
i hav 2006 seanna minivan and it has about 35000 km on it. shud i change the brake pads and the rotors? or should i wait more?
Car brakes?
Look at the pads and see how warn they are and go from there.
Car brakes?
Don't fix it if it isn't broke. As advised before, check the thickness of the pads by removing the wheels and looking through the inspection holes in the calipers.
you are probably still good depending on the type of driving you do but I think I would have them checked just to make sure how much longer you can go.
Car brakes?
Look at the pads and see how warn they are and go from there.
Car brakes?
Don't fix it if it isn't broke. As advised before, check the thickness of the pads by removing the wheels and looking through the inspection holes in the calipers.
you are probably still good depending on the type of driving you do but I think I would have them checked just to make sure how much longer you can go.
When replacing brakes/rotors on front of 99 Oldsmobile Alero,do you need special tools for removing the rotors
I have a 1999 Oldsmobile Alero and wanted to know if the rotors are easily changed? I am familliar with changing the brakes on this car however was not sure if the rotors needed a puller of any sort to take them off and place the new ones on. Someone has told me that they are easy on rotors and are held on by the wheel. Anyone know for sure? I want to find out before I start. Thanks.
When replacing brakes/rotors on front of 99 Oldsmobile Alero,do you need special tools for removing the rotors
They are most likely held on by the wheels. Most Olds are. Sometimes there are small clips where the lug nut studs go into the rotors you have to cut off. Sometimes, the rotors are stuck due to rust, and you need to heat them up a little bit. I did one that was so rusted on, I had to use a hammer and chisel,and break them apart. Mostly, though, they are a snap to get off.
UPDATE:I just went to autozone.com, and yes they need no special tools to remove.http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker鈥?/a>
When replacing brakes/rotors on front of 99 Oldsmobile Alero,do you need special tools for removing the rotors
This is a good question. And I have been sitting here for a minute trying to figure out how to reply to it. Although I do not know the answer, I am going to look over the net, and do a search on Google, and Yahoo, and other sites and try to find out. I wish I knew what the answer was because I think a question like this deserves the answer. I am wonder how many other people would benefit from the answer. I am glad you asked this question, as it has really got me thinking............. thanks again!!!
PS, this question reminds me of other questions I have seen in my lifetime, which I still have yet to come up worth an answer. Maybe you might know the answer to them............
1.If you cut one head off of a two headed man, have you decapitated him?
2.What is the maximum height of a short man?
3. When does a fertilized egg develop into a person?
The rotor slides on and off the wheel studs.
When you remove the caliper the rotor will slide off.
you'll find out quick.. if the rotors are held on by the rim, you're in luck, otherwise, you'll need a large socket, size is probably 30-32mm. that giant nut allows the rotor (and cv axle) to be removed.
I believe that yes, it's free-floating rotors, and very easy to change once you remove the calipers. Should be no problem, but make sure you get your new rotors cut down when you change your brakes for maximum rotor life and dependability.
?~!, we are on to you. Very clever. You are cutting and pasting with lots of different questions to score points. Good idea.
When replacing brakes/rotors on front of 99 Oldsmobile Alero,do you need special tools for removing the rotors
They are most likely held on by the wheels. Most Olds are. Sometimes there are small clips where the lug nut studs go into the rotors you have to cut off. Sometimes, the rotors are stuck due to rust, and you need to heat them up a little bit. I did one that was so rusted on, I had to use a hammer and chisel,and break them apart. Mostly, though, they are a snap to get off.
UPDATE:I just went to autozone.com, and yes they need no special tools to remove.http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker鈥?/a>
When replacing brakes/rotors on front of 99 Oldsmobile Alero,do you need special tools for removing the rotors
This is a good question. And I have been sitting here for a minute trying to figure out how to reply to it. Although I do not know the answer, I am going to look over the net, and do a search on Google, and Yahoo, and other sites and try to find out. I wish I knew what the answer was because I think a question like this deserves the answer. I am wonder how many other people would benefit from the answer. I am glad you asked this question, as it has really got me thinking............. thanks again!!!
PS, this question reminds me of other questions I have seen in my lifetime, which I still have yet to come up worth an answer. Maybe you might know the answer to them............
1.If you cut one head off of a two headed man, have you decapitated him?
2.What is the maximum height of a short man?
3. When does a fertilized egg develop into a person?
The rotor slides on and off the wheel studs.
When you remove the caliper the rotor will slide off.
you'll find out quick.. if the rotors are held on by the rim, you're in luck, otherwise, you'll need a large socket, size is probably 30-32mm. that giant nut allows the rotor (and cv axle) to be removed.
I believe that yes, it's free-floating rotors, and very easy to change once you remove the calipers. Should be no problem, but make sure you get your new rotors cut down when you change your brakes for maximum rotor life and dependability.
?~!, we are on to you. Very clever. You are cutting and pasting with lots of different questions to score points. Good idea.
When changing fluids in your car, whats the best way to clean it out before putting new fluids in?
I'm changing my: Oil, Transmission Fluid, Power Steering Fluid, and Brake Fluid.
Curious if there is a good substance to run through that will clean everything out before putting the new fluids in.
When changing fluids in your car, whats the best way to clean it out before putting new fluids in?
no are a waste of money, just completely drain and refill except for tran. you need to have equipment to flush.funny pet name going to release
Curious if there is a good substance to run through that will clean everything out before putting the new fluids in.
When changing fluids in your car, whats the best way to clean it out before putting new fluids in?
no are a waste of money, just completely drain and refill except for tran. you need to have equipment to flush.
Why do my brakes squeal after I recently replaced them?
One month ago, I changed my brakes on my car. After two weeks, it started squealing when I softly press on my brakes. This is not the case when I press hardly on my brakes. Only when I PRESS SOFTLY ON THEM.
Any help would be great.
Why do my brakes squeal after I recently replaced them?
this happened to me ,i took my car back and they said for me to take it to the car wash and use comet cleaner to scrub them with and it worked....they prob. just need to be cleaned
Why do my brakes squeal after I recently replaced them?
Sounds like you need a good lube job. And get those breaks looked at too.
bring them back in, maybe they were put on wrong
They are too small. Its not a problem but quite annoying. You can get as much use of them as possible, then next time make sure you know your exact size. Take care
becuase they still might be new or who ever did em didnt apply enough grease needed. simply get sum grease in the rotors and the squeeking will stop. or if you got dust or dirt in your breaks that will cause them to sqweek also....
I'd be willing to bet you didn't get the most expensive pads available. The composite materials in cheaper pads will aid in bringing your vehicle to rest just as well as the more expensive ones, but you have to deal with the noise and associated residue that will be left on your wheels soon. You get what you pay for!
there usu. is no problem. the reason why brakes squeal is because of brake dust. it happens to all cars no matter how old. its completely normal but if it bothers u, then u can try taking the brakes off and cleaning them. unless there is something wrong with ur breaks like stopping very short etc (then u need ur brakes aligned %26amp; fixed). if no other probs then ur fine
they just need to wear in
their may be some sort of contaminant on them due to the person who changed them. he could have had grease or something on his hands.
They have a anti squeal that you apply to back of pads should have gotten it with breaks although it's probably sold separate now.
It's probably brake dust. It occurs usually when you use a non-metallic pad. There are stop squealing products you could get or you could blow them off with an air gun. If your rims are getting dirty faster than usual dust is probably the problem. This squeal is not a stopping problem just an annoyance.
%26quot;assuming the rotors and drums are in good shape%26quot;They actually sell a lubicant and cleaner designed to clean asbestos residue from break components. I usually use soap and water to clean the rotors and new breaks which works fine too.
First of all, there are SOME systems that will squeak no matter what you do when pressing softly. This is a little rare, however.
You said that you replaced them yourself. This being said, the most likely thing that happened is that the rotors/drums were not machined to match the new pads. This will cause a noise because the set needs to burnish itself to get good contact. This is especially critical on metallic composition pads.
Next, make sure you lubricated every moving part in the system with grease before installing the pads/shoes. Some pads don't come new with shims that go between the pad and the caliper, so watch for that, too.
If you don't want to machine the rotor, then the best thing you can really do (cheating, by the way) is take some sort of circular action sander and some relatively smooth sandpaper and brush a circular pattern into the rotors. Sometimes this helps eliminate noises, other times you just have to rough up the pads, machine the rotors/drums and reinstall.
It needs oil on it.
They need the anti squel applied to the back of the disk. The anti squel is a rubber goop you add to the back and it stops the harmonic vibrations from forming thus your car is quiet when you stop.
Depending on the brake pads that were used and the most important thing is, did you have the rotors machined, by not doing this it can always cause the best pads to squeal.
Any help would be great.
Why do my brakes squeal after I recently replaced them?
this happened to me ,i took my car back and they said for me to take it to the car wash and use comet cleaner to scrub them with and it worked....they prob. just need to be cleaned
Why do my brakes squeal after I recently replaced them?
Sounds like you need a good lube job. And get those breaks looked at too.
bring them back in, maybe they were put on wrong
They are too small. Its not a problem but quite annoying. You can get as much use of them as possible, then next time make sure you know your exact size. Take care
becuase they still might be new or who ever did em didnt apply enough grease needed. simply get sum grease in the rotors and the squeeking will stop. or if you got dust or dirt in your breaks that will cause them to sqweek also....
I'd be willing to bet you didn't get the most expensive pads available. The composite materials in cheaper pads will aid in bringing your vehicle to rest just as well as the more expensive ones, but you have to deal with the noise and associated residue that will be left on your wheels soon. You get what you pay for!
there usu. is no problem. the reason why brakes squeal is because of brake dust. it happens to all cars no matter how old. its completely normal but if it bothers u, then u can try taking the brakes off and cleaning them. unless there is something wrong with ur breaks like stopping very short etc (then u need ur brakes aligned %26amp; fixed). if no other probs then ur fine
they just need to wear in
their may be some sort of contaminant on them due to the person who changed them. he could have had grease or something on his hands.
They have a anti squeal that you apply to back of pads should have gotten it with breaks although it's probably sold separate now.
It's probably brake dust. It occurs usually when you use a non-metallic pad. There are stop squealing products you could get or you could blow them off with an air gun. If your rims are getting dirty faster than usual dust is probably the problem. This squeal is not a stopping problem just an annoyance.
%26quot;assuming the rotors and drums are in good shape%26quot;They actually sell a lubicant and cleaner designed to clean asbestos residue from break components. I usually use soap and water to clean the rotors and new breaks which works fine too.
First of all, there are SOME systems that will squeak no matter what you do when pressing softly. This is a little rare, however.
You said that you replaced them yourself. This being said, the most likely thing that happened is that the rotors/drums were not machined to match the new pads. This will cause a noise because the set needs to burnish itself to get good contact. This is especially critical on metallic composition pads.
Next, make sure you lubricated every moving part in the system with grease before installing the pads/shoes. Some pads don't come new with shims that go between the pad and the caliper, so watch for that, too.
If you don't want to machine the rotor, then the best thing you can really do (cheating, by the way) is take some sort of circular action sander and some relatively smooth sandpaper and brush a circular pattern into the rotors. Sometimes this helps eliminate noises, other times you just have to rough up the pads, machine the rotors/drums and reinstall.
It needs oil on it.
They need the anti squel applied to the back of the disk. The anti squel is a rubber goop you add to the back and it stops the harmonic vibrations from forming thus your car is quiet when you stop.
Depending on the brake pads that were used and the most important thing is, did you have the rotors machined, by not doing this it can always cause the best pads to squeal.
Advice about changing front brakes on a 2006 Jeep Wrangler? Special tools required like my Pontiac?
I need to change the front disc brakes on my 4X4 Jeep Wrangler and have the rotors turned. My Pontiac requires a special wrench that I never needed on any other vehicles even my previous 4X4 so before starting I want to know will I need any special tools. I have everything that you normally use for most cars. I don't want to start and find out I need something I can not find. Thank you
Advice about changing front brakes on a 2006 Jeep Wrangler? Special tools required like my Pontiac?
Nope, nothing fancy on that vehicle
Advice about changing front brakes on a 2006 Jeep Wrangler? Special tools required like my Pontiac?
nah need nothing more than. a socket set good know how to and a big c clamp.
Advice about changing front brakes on a 2006 Jeep Wrangler? Special tools required like my Pontiac?
Nope, nothing fancy on that vehicle
Advice about changing front brakes on a 2006 Jeep Wrangler? Special tools required like my Pontiac?
nah need nothing more than. a socket set good know how to and a big c clamp.
Does anyone know a good website that demonstrates how to change brake pads on your car?
I know brake drums are another story, but brake discs are fairly easy.
Does anyone know a good website that demonstrates how to change brake pads on your car?
Seriously, there are tons of sites out there on how to change brake pads.
Simply googling it will give many sites, some even with videos.
http://www.********.com/lessons/brakesho鈥?/a>
Does anyone know a good website that demonstrates how to change brake pads on your car?
Just buy a Haynes or a Chilton repair guide. They are full of all kinds of repairs.
this is one of the easiest things to do to a car.
engage parking brake
loosen wheel lugs (dont remove)
jack up car and place on jack stands
remove wheel lugs and wheel
loosen and remove two bolts from brake caliper (varies by car)
remove brake caliper from top (a prying tool may be needed but should ultimately roll towards rear of car from the top.
remove old pads and put on new, you may need to compress the piston depending on wear (to do that remove lid from master cylinder and force piston to fully disengage, taking care not to damage it, a c-clamp and a peice of metal works great)
put everything back on in reverse order starting with the caliper and work your way back.
This one has good photos:
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/frn鈥?/a>
http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityour鈥?/a>
www.autozone.com
Does anyone know a good website that demonstrates how to change brake pads on your car?
Seriously, there are tons of sites out there on how to change brake pads.
Simply googling it will give many sites, some even with videos.
http://www.********.com/lessons/brakesho鈥?/a>
Does anyone know a good website that demonstrates how to change brake pads on your car?
Just buy a Haynes or a Chilton repair guide. They are full of all kinds of repairs.
this is one of the easiest things to do to a car.
engage parking brake
loosen wheel lugs (dont remove)
jack up car and place on jack stands
remove wheel lugs and wheel
loosen and remove two bolts from brake caliper (varies by car)
remove brake caliper from top (a prying tool may be needed but should ultimately roll towards rear of car from the top.
remove old pads and put on new, you may need to compress the piston depending on wear (to do that remove lid from master cylinder and force piston to fully disengage, taking care not to damage it, a c-clamp and a peice of metal works great)
put everything back on in reverse order starting with the caliper and work your way back.
This one has good photos:
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/frn鈥?/a>
http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityour鈥?/a>
www.autozone.com
My car start vibrating above 70 mph and also when I applied brakes at that speed. What could be wrong?
I just bought this car yesterday from another person. I already changed both front tires and balanced it. it is front wheel drive. Could it be axel or brakes? any suggestions?
My car start vibrating above 70 mph and also when I applied brakes at that speed. What could be wrong?
Possible causes of vibrations:
1. Bent rims.
2. Tire out of round or improperly balanced.
3. Worn out struts, shocks, or steering components.
4. Over tightened wheel lug nuts, especially stamped steel rims.
5. Out of alignment.
6. Mud or other material stuck on rims.
7. Badly warped front disk brake rotors.
8. Axel shafts worn and/or bent.
If you feel the vibration in the steerings wheel the problem is in the front. If you feel the vibration in your seat the problem is in the rear. If your rotors are warped, you will feel it at slower speeds under hard braking. Bent rims or out of round tires you should feel a slight wobble at 10-20 mph.
Have the front end checked for worn or broken parts ASAP as some bad parts in the front end can cause accidents and/or breakdowns.
My car start vibrating above 70 mph and also when I applied brakes at that speed. What could be wrong?
Your tires need to be balanced and your wheels aligned. If that is not it then you have a bump in your tire, but generally it is the first 2. Should be a cheap fix.
if you just got your tires balanced and changed... the mechanic might not have tightened one of the caliburs completely...which has to do with the brakes..
my assumption is that your car need wheel balancing or the suspension system is poor
I have had the same problem, there can be various reasons, the first is obviously the tires, if those are new then the ball bearings are faulty, check those out..
If you have a relativly small car, it is going to vibrate at high speeds. Speed limit laws were made for a reason. Try getting your wheel allignment checked out and your tie-rods (It might be spelled tye-rods - I'm not sure)
it doesn't sound like there is anything wrong with your car - if i were you I'd go to the doctors - its obvious that you have %26quot;Wobbly Eye Condition%26quot;...
could be warped brake rotors if it has disc brakes.
your brake rotors have excessive lateral runout(they are warped) from making stops too quickly, causes alot of heat on the rotors.they need to be either machined or replaced if they become to thin-GM Technician-
My car start vibrating above 70 mph and also when I applied brakes at that speed. What could be wrong?
Possible causes of vibrations:
1. Bent rims.
2. Tire out of round or improperly balanced.
3. Worn out struts, shocks, or steering components.
4. Over tightened wheel lug nuts, especially stamped steel rims.
5. Out of alignment.
6. Mud or other material stuck on rims.
7. Badly warped front disk brake rotors.
8. Axel shafts worn and/or bent.
If you feel the vibration in the steerings wheel the problem is in the front. If you feel the vibration in your seat the problem is in the rear. If your rotors are warped, you will feel it at slower speeds under hard braking. Bent rims or out of round tires you should feel a slight wobble at 10-20 mph.
Have the front end checked for worn or broken parts ASAP as some bad parts in the front end can cause accidents and/or breakdowns.
My car start vibrating above 70 mph and also when I applied brakes at that speed. What could be wrong?
Your tires need to be balanced and your wheels aligned. If that is not it then you have a bump in your tire, but generally it is the first 2. Should be a cheap fix.
if you just got your tires balanced and changed... the mechanic might not have tightened one of the caliburs completely...which has to do with the brakes..
my assumption is that your car need wheel balancing or the suspension system is poor
I have had the same problem, there can be various reasons, the first is obviously the tires, if those are new then the ball bearings are faulty, check those out..
If you have a relativly small car, it is going to vibrate at high speeds. Speed limit laws were made for a reason. Try getting your wheel allignment checked out and your tie-rods (It might be spelled tye-rods - I'm not sure)
it doesn't sound like there is anything wrong with your car - if i were you I'd go to the doctors - its obvious that you have %26quot;Wobbly Eye Condition%26quot;...
could be warped brake rotors if it has disc brakes.
your brake rotors have excessive lateral runout(they are warped) from making stops too quickly, causes alot of heat on the rotors.they need to be either machined or replaced if they become to thin-GM Technician-
2001 s430. I changed the brakes on my lift, and the air ride let the car down. It won't go back up. Pls help
everything worked great before I put it on the lift. Did brake job and the air ride lowered the car in front, and raised in rear. How to fix please.
2001 s430. I changed the brakes on my lift, and the air ride let the car down. It won't go back up. Pls help
Let the car down completely, disconnect the battery, wait 10min. then reconnect the battery. Things should return to normal (unless the battery is dead) or you have broken one of the air shocks air lines.
2001 s430. I changed the brakes on my lift, and the air ride let the car down. It won't go back up. Pls help
on an auto set air ride, you can unhook the battery and drain off the air at each wheel shock. when you hook the battery back up and start it, it should readjust to normal.
Drive it!
Check to make sure you didnt pinch one of the air lines.
Just start the car and let it run. The system will level itself out. Even if you created a leak somehow, the end that is too high will drop down to normal. It is really not that easy to damage these systems. Most horror stories occur when an older system is put on a lift and releases all the air. Then when it is lowered, the air bag is collapsed and can pinch a hole in itself. Possibly tearing an airbag.extension to sqltableprovider bird
2001 s430. I changed the brakes on my lift, and the air ride let the car down. It won't go back up. Pls help
Let the car down completely, disconnect the battery, wait 10min. then reconnect the battery. Things should return to normal (unless the battery is dead) or you have broken one of the air shocks air lines.
2001 s430. I changed the brakes on my lift, and the air ride let the car down. It won't go back up. Pls help
on an auto set air ride, you can unhook the battery and drain off the air at each wheel shock. when you hook the battery back up and start it, it should readjust to normal.
Drive it!
Check to make sure you didnt pinch one of the air lines.
Just start the car and let it run. The system will level itself out. Even if you created a leak somehow, the end that is too high will drop down to normal. It is really not that easy to damage these systems. Most horror stories occur when an older system is put on a lift and releases all the air. Then when it is lowered, the air bag is collapsed and can pinch a hole in itself. Possibly tearing an airbag.
A Question on replacing brakes pad on a 2002 Ford F-150?
I have years of experience changing brakes in older cars, but never changed brakes with 4 disc brakes and ABS. Is there any special tool or procedure I have to use or do to change pads on my truck?
A Question on replacing brakes pad on a 2002 Ford F-150?
nope... On these the rear parking brakes are another set of brakes under the rotors (Usually you hear of special tools needed to do rear disc brakes, this truck doesn't need them)
But nope, no different ways to do it, except I'd recommend lubing the slides (pull them mostly out of the boot and apply slide lube made for brakes)... most forget this step and I find the brakes eat away quicker on abs vehicles if not done..
A Question on replacing brakes pad on a 2002 Ford F-150?
about the same
no they are not i think just c clamp and a 3/8 angle wroung to take them off and to put them back on
A Question on replacing brakes pad on a 2002 Ford F-150?
nope... On these the rear parking brakes are another set of brakes under the rotors (Usually you hear of special tools needed to do rear disc brakes, this truck doesn't need them)
But nope, no different ways to do it, except I'd recommend lubing the slides (pull them mostly out of the boot and apply slide lube made for brakes)... most forget this step and I find the brakes eat away quicker on abs vehicles if not done..
A Question on replacing brakes pad on a 2002 Ford F-150?
about the same
no they are not i think just c clamp and a 3/8 angle wroung to take them off and to put them back on
A car is traveling at 30 mph on a level road when the brakes are applied to bring it to a screaching halt?
a) Describe any change in the car's potential energy, if there is any.
b) Describe any change in the car's kinetic energy, if there is any.
c) During the stop sound is created and the tires become hot. Where did the energy for these actions come from? This is an example of what basic principle of science?
PLEASE HELP !
A car is traveling at 30 mph on a level road when the brakes are applied to bring it to a screaching halt?
a) There is no change in potential energy since the position of the car did not change within the gravitational field (meaning you stayed at the same height while in the car).
b) The car's kinetic energy was decreased as the velocity of the vehicle was decreased KE=.5mv^2 shows this.
c) This is an example of conservation of energy. The energy required for this action came from the kinetic energy, since energy cannot be created or destroyed that kinetic energy had to go somewhere so it went into the braking system which gave off heat energy and sound energy.
b) Describe any change in the car's kinetic energy, if there is any.
c) During the stop sound is created and the tires become hot. Where did the energy for these actions come from? This is an example of what basic principle of science?
PLEASE HELP !
A car is traveling at 30 mph on a level road when the brakes are applied to bring it to a screaching halt?
a) There is no change in potential energy since the position of the car did not change within the gravitational field (meaning you stayed at the same height while in the car).
b) The car's kinetic energy was decreased as the velocity of the vehicle was decreased KE=.5mv^2 shows this.
c) This is an example of conservation of energy. The energy required for this action came from the kinetic energy, since energy cannot be created or destroyed that kinetic energy had to go somewhere so it went into the braking system which gave off heat energy and sound energy.
Why does my car feel like the rotors are wobbling when I press the brakes?
I changed the front brake pads a week ago because it had the same problem but lesser and something I can cruise on.I have to go slower now but anyway it's just very worse and they feel like their going to brake .. I opened it up and they look perfect. When I go fast or slow and step on the brake, it's the same wobble. It's ugly.
Why does my car feel like the rotors are wobbling when I press the brakes?
ugh.
i ALWAYS have problems with my brakes.
ever since i bought the car actually.
anywaysssss.
it sounds like your rotors are warped.
and its really easy to warp them.
its as easy as just driving and hitting a puddle,
while your rotors are warm...
simple things like that will mess them up.
you might also want to look into a new caliper as well.
:]
hope this helps
Why does my car feel like the rotors are wobbling when I press the brakes?
Most likely your rotors are warped.
You can have them turned or get new rotors.
All you have to do is remove the calipers as if you were going to change brakes, and just remove the rotors and replace. I have done this and i always get new rotors... they are just about $10 more than turning them.
Two things to check: #1. Rust inside if rotor where it slides over the studs and rust on wheel bearing hub where studs face you. #2. TIR (total indicated run-out) of either rotor friction face can be a maximum of .003 or your steering column will feel like an electric fence when braking. They need to be turned or throw them away and buy EBC rotors which are cast in Great Britain.
New brake pads do not solve rotor run-out issues. You know what needs to be done.
Changing the pads had nothing to do with the brake vibration. That problem ws there prior to the pads being replaced. Assuming you know how.. Remove the calipers as you did when you replaced the pads and depending on car or truck you own, since you did not tell us, you must remove both the rotors in the front, if the shake is felt in the steering wheel. Take the rotors to a qualified Part store with the proper equipment and have the rotors machined. Should cost you about $10.00 each to turn them down.... In some cases you can buy replacement rotors at a very low price, depending on type of automobile. If you feel the vibration in the seat bottom, go to the back brakes and do the same. Watch hitting the pot holes, curbs, and anything else...
your brake rotors are warped and need resurfaced.
Why does my car feel like the rotors are wobbling when I press the brakes?
ugh.
i ALWAYS have problems with my brakes.
ever since i bought the car actually.
anywaysssss.
it sounds like your rotors are warped.
and its really easy to warp them.
its as easy as just driving and hitting a puddle,
while your rotors are warm...
simple things like that will mess them up.
you might also want to look into a new caliper as well.
:]
hope this helps
Why does my car feel like the rotors are wobbling when I press the brakes?
Most likely your rotors are warped.
You can have them turned or get new rotors.
All you have to do is remove the calipers as if you were going to change brakes, and just remove the rotors and replace. I have done this and i always get new rotors... they are just about $10 more than turning them.
Two things to check: #1. Rust inside if rotor where it slides over the studs and rust on wheel bearing hub where studs face you. #2. TIR (total indicated run-out) of either rotor friction face can be a maximum of .003 or your steering column will feel like an electric fence when braking. They need to be turned or throw them away and buy EBC rotors which are cast in Great Britain.
New brake pads do not solve rotor run-out issues. You know what needs to be done.
Changing the pads had nothing to do with the brake vibration. That problem ws there prior to the pads being replaced. Assuming you know how.. Remove the calipers as you did when you replaced the pads and depending on car or truck you own, since you did not tell us, you must remove both the rotors in the front, if the shake is felt in the steering wheel. Take the rotors to a qualified Part store with the proper equipment and have the rotors machined. Should cost you about $10.00 each to turn them down.... In some cases you can buy replacement rotors at a very low price, depending on type of automobile. If you feel the vibration in the seat bottom, go to the back brakes and do the same. Watch hitting the pot holes, curbs, and anything else...
your brake rotors are warped and need resurfaced.
Approx what will it cost for brakes for my car?
My brakes have just started squeaking and when I took it for an oil change, the garage said the brake fluid was really low. They are not grinding or anything like that. I want to get it looked at this week, so it does not cause any further damage. But, out of curiosity I was just wondering if any might have a ballpark figure? What is better Midas or Meineke? Thanks
Approx what will it cost for brakes for my car?
fluid is low because your pads are low you should not spend over 200 on a basic brake pads and rotor resurfacing job
Approx what will it cost for brakes for my car?
Both of those are very expensive chains. I would find a local mechanic and give him the business, You will also find they are usually a lot less expensive. As for price. Location means a lot. I live in Portland, OR and mechanics here are very expensive, My sister lives in Bristol, VA and mechanics there are 1/3 the price. That being said. If I were in Bristol, I would not expect to pay more than $75 for front brakes and $75 for back brakes or $140 total, without any surfacing. Here in Portland though, you are looking at around $100 per wheel.
Mommy, Midas, Minekie and Monroe are terrible shops for brake jobs. Trust a private mechanic or a new car dealership.
Meinke and Midas probably advertise a price per axle for a basic brake job. The questions is, whether you fluid is low just because the brakes are worn or is there a leak. If there is a leak then you need work on the hydraulics, not just the pads. The squeaking might be because the pads are worn down to the warning signal. What are you worried about? You can always walk away if it is too expensive.
Approx what will it cost for brakes for my car?
fluid is low because your pads are low you should not spend over 200 on a basic brake pads and rotor resurfacing job
Approx what will it cost for brakes for my car?
Both of those are very expensive chains. I would find a local mechanic and give him the business, You will also find they are usually a lot less expensive. As for price. Location means a lot. I live in Portland, OR and mechanics here are very expensive, My sister lives in Bristol, VA and mechanics there are 1/3 the price. That being said. If I were in Bristol, I would not expect to pay more than $75 for front brakes and $75 for back brakes or $140 total, without any surfacing. Here in Portland though, you are looking at around $100 per wheel.
Mommy, Midas, Minekie and Monroe are terrible shops for brake jobs. Trust a private mechanic or a new car dealership.
Meinke and Midas probably advertise a price per axle for a basic brake job. The questions is, whether you fluid is low just because the brakes are worn or is there a leak. If there is a leak then you need work on the hydraulics, not just the pads. The squeaking might be because the pads are worn down to the warning signal. What are you worried about? You can always walk away if it is too expensive.
Why does my car have trouble changing gears when I start it?
It's an automatic 96 Honda Accord. Right after I start my car and I want to go in reverse or put it in drive stepping on the brake and trying to pull the stick does nothing. I literally have to kick the brake for it to start working.
Why does my car have trouble changing gears when I start it?
Just regarding the previous guy's suggestion, there are different methods to check the transmission fluid for different cars.
I believe Honda does it with Engine off and Fluid cold, not engine on and hot. But I may have this mixed up. The point is you should double check the owner's manual to be sure.
Why does my car have trouble changing gears when I start it?
Check the transmission fluid level. it has to be on a level surface and engine running after driving a few milesnetworking how to move on with your life
Why does my car have trouble changing gears when I start it?
Just regarding the previous guy's suggestion, there are different methods to check the transmission fluid for different cars.
I believe Honda does it with Engine off and Fluid cold, not engine on and hot. But I may have this mixed up. The point is you should double check the owner's manual to be sure.
Why does my car have trouble changing gears when I start it?
Check the transmission fluid level. it has to be on a level surface and engine running after driving a few miles
If the brake Lights turn on in your car?
every year at this time I need to change the brakes in my car,but as of two weeks ago the brake light came on in my car and It's using brake fluid and the stopping power is bad.
If the brake Lights turn on in your car?
Since the light is on, it is very easy for a mechanic to hook up to your car with a scanner and get a general idea of the problem your cars computer has found in the brake system. take it back to whoever did your brake job. most likely they made a mistake on something and are required by law to fix it for free.
If the brake Lights turn on in your car?
Then you should take your car in and get the brakes fixed
probly a leak. get it checked out plz
sounds like a blown line or bad master cylinder,even a bad wheel cylinder....you will need a pro to troubleshoot it,and fix it properly.this is one area it doesnt pay to take shortcuts.
It sounds like you have either a leaking brake caliper, or piston seal, or a bad master cylinder. Look at the reservoir for your brake fluid. If the base of the master cylinder (the thing that the reservoir is on) is all wet looking, its the master cylinder. One way or the other, you should take it in to have it fixed.
If the brake Lights turn on in your car?
Since the light is on, it is very easy for a mechanic to hook up to your car with a scanner and get a general idea of the problem your cars computer has found in the brake system. take it back to whoever did your brake job. most likely they made a mistake on something and are required by law to fix it for free.
If the brake Lights turn on in your car?
Then you should take your car in and get the brakes fixed
probly a leak. get it checked out plz
sounds like a blown line or bad master cylinder,even a bad wheel cylinder....you will need a pro to troubleshoot it,and fix it properly.this is one area it doesnt pay to take shortcuts.
It sounds like you have either a leaking brake caliper, or piston seal, or a bad master cylinder. Look at the reservoir for your brake fluid. If the base of the master cylinder (the thing that the reservoir is on) is all wet looking, its the master cylinder. One way or the other, you should take it in to have it fixed.
I am getting new car brakes on my car tomorrow. When you ?
u recommend I get new ones again, what is the time frame to change them out?
I am getting new car brakes on my car tomorrow. When you ?
you usually have them inspected about every 6 months and see how much they have worn down,on most cars good brake pads and shoes will last for about 20-25 thousand miles,so you can use miileage as a factor in determining when to have those checked,good luck.
I am getting new car brakes on my car tomorrow. When you ?
Its very hard to say with any certainty, since so many factors are at play. You should inspect them each time the tires are rotated, since the wheels will be off anyway.
1 to 2 hours
i do brake jobs all day every day. it depends if you are getting new rotors or having yours resurfaced with new it takes me 30-45 min, to resurface may take up to 2 hours depending on how warped yours are. rotate your tires every other oil change.
most new brakes have a metal tab and when they get worn down to the minim you will hear them start to squeak as they touch the rotor%26lt;
I am getting new car brakes on my car tomorrow. When you ?
you usually have them inspected about every 6 months and see how much they have worn down,on most cars good brake pads and shoes will last for about 20-25 thousand miles,so you can use miileage as a factor in determining when to have those checked,good luck.
I am getting new car brakes on my car tomorrow. When you ?
Its very hard to say with any certainty, since so many factors are at play. You should inspect them each time the tires are rotated, since the wheels will be off anyway.
1 to 2 hours
i do brake jobs all day every day. it depends if you are getting new rotors or having yours resurfaced with new it takes me 30-45 min, to resurface may take up to 2 hours depending on how warped yours are. rotate your tires every other oil change.
most new brakes have a metal tab and when they get worn down to the minim you will hear them start to squeak as they touch the rotor%26lt;
How do I change the brake fluid in my car?
According to the car owner's manual, the brake fluid should should be changed every 20000 miles or so. Can it be done at home or do I have to take it to a workshop ?
How do I change the brake fluid in my car?
Sounds like your really interested in maintaining your car. Theoretically your wheel cylinders and/or disc brake calipers will never wear out if you do this maintanance routine about every 20,000 miles or no more than 2 years between flushings. I have been doing this for years on my own vehicles. The reason for this procedure is that break fluid draws moisture and that is what leads to the corrosion of your break lines and wheel cylinders and/or calipers. If you look at the master cylinder of a new car the brake fluid looks almost clear. After about 20,000 miles or two years the brake fluid starts to look like ice tea. That is because it has moisture in it. If your mechanically inclined or like working on your own vehicle this is a job you can do yourself. The way I do it is with a hand operated vacuum pump with a plastic resovour to catch the fluid. Mightyvac makes one for bleeding brakes. You start at the farthest wheel from the master cylinder (rear wheel, passenger side) and remove and save the little rubber boot over the bleeder screw and attach the appropiate adapter (included in the kit) to the bleeder screw and than loosen the bleed screw. Attach the plastic hose from the pump to the adapter and after removing the master cylinder cover start pumping until the little container on the pump is just about full and pour it into a container and continue until you start getting clean fluid. Make sure you dont suck the master cylinder dry. If you have someone helping you they can take a new bottle of brake fluid and keep it topped off. If your working alone you can buy a longer piece of that plastic hose at a hardware store that is long enough to go from the farthest bleeder screw to under the hood where your right there to keep the master cylinder full. Once you have bled that wheel tighten up the bleeder screw and replace the rubber cap. Then go to the next fartest wheel and work you way to the drivers side front wheel which is the closest one. I usually buy 2 quarts to do this job to make sure I dont run out. It usually takes a little more than a quart. If you get a cheap turkey baster you can suck the old fluid out of the master cylinder and replace it with new to save a little time. Also make sure you replace all the little rubber boots on the bleed screws when your done or the bleeder screw can get rusted and may break off the next time you do the job. If they are all dry rotted you can buy some little rubber vacuum caps at the auto parts store to replace them Their cheap. When your done pump ther brakes to make sure they work and thats it. Hope this helps.
How do I change the brake fluid in my car?
Depends on the make of car and how skilled a mechanic you are. If you are a bit unsure it might be best to get it done in a workshop. If you do not bleed the system adequately after changing the fluid, it can cause your brakes to fail without warning.
This can be done at home, however it is not a fun job. 20,000 miles sounds a little extreme and if the car is that new the dealer should do the service for free.
If you are having doubts, then take it and get it done, brakes on newer cars can be tricky and it is not something that you want to be wondering about when some old lady going 50 mph whips it out in front of you in the passing lane at 75 mph.
If you insist on doing it yourself, go to your local parts store and get a manual for the car you have. These manuals are invaluable once you start ripping into things. You will probably need a %26quot;speed bleeder%26quot; or a one man bleeder to.
I would think 25,000-30,000 would be more like it. This is probably best left to a garage, it's actually not that expensive to flush system. You would basically be bleeding the entire system out while adding fresh fluid until clean fluid comes out the bleeder nipple. There are kits you can get so you can do it alone or do it with a second person so one can pump pedal while other opens and closes nipple at wheel. There is a pattern to follow with regards to which wheel to do in what order and of course when to pump and when to release/close nipple. Do it wrong and you end up with a pedal that has no pressure and going to floor(NO BRAKES). You can remove as much as possible the old fluid from the reservoir first and adding your fresh fluid. This will reduce the amount of manual work to get that old fluid from system.
It can be done at home. You need a small wrench and a gallon of brake fluid. It is easiest to jack up the car and get all four wheels off. (put four drip pans under the brake assemblies. Then reach in and open all four bleeder screws. the brake fluid will run out. while the fluid is running open the master cyl and keep fresh fluid in the reservoir when you have reached the full gallon going thru the system shut the bleeder screws. Make sure the reservoir is full put the cap back on and check to make sure you have not gotten any air in the lines.
First time I ever heard of this requirement in an owner's manual. But I have done this on a couple of my cars to help with a soft brake pedal.
I used a turkey baster to remove all of the brake fluid from both master cylinder reservoirs. At this point, it is very important you do not move the brake pedal as you will get air in your brake lines and get a soft pedal.
Fill the brake reservoir with the correct type of fresh, clean brake fluid. Follow the same procedure of bleeding your brakes, starting with brake furthest from the master cylinder, usually the right rear. Bleed the lines until you get clear brake fluid from the bleeder. usually about 12 -14 ounces for the first line, about half that for the second line. The front brakes will take less as their lines are shorter.
During this, do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to become empty as you will get air in the lines and get a soft pedal.
Dispose of the used brake fluid at the recycler.
definitely take it to a pro.
if you are unsure at all brakes are not a good starting point for the backyard mechanic.....
How do I change the brake fluid in my car?
Sounds like your really interested in maintaining your car. Theoretically your wheel cylinders and/or disc brake calipers will never wear out if you do this maintanance routine about every 20,000 miles or no more than 2 years between flushings. I have been doing this for years on my own vehicles. The reason for this procedure is that break fluid draws moisture and that is what leads to the corrosion of your break lines and wheel cylinders and/or calipers. If you look at the master cylinder of a new car the brake fluid looks almost clear. After about 20,000 miles or two years the brake fluid starts to look like ice tea. That is because it has moisture in it. If your mechanically inclined or like working on your own vehicle this is a job you can do yourself. The way I do it is with a hand operated vacuum pump with a plastic resovour to catch the fluid. Mightyvac makes one for bleeding brakes. You start at the farthest wheel from the master cylinder (rear wheel, passenger side) and remove and save the little rubber boot over the bleeder screw and attach the appropiate adapter (included in the kit) to the bleeder screw and than loosen the bleed screw. Attach the plastic hose from the pump to the adapter and after removing the master cylinder cover start pumping until the little container on the pump is just about full and pour it into a container and continue until you start getting clean fluid. Make sure you dont suck the master cylinder dry. If you have someone helping you they can take a new bottle of brake fluid and keep it topped off. If your working alone you can buy a longer piece of that plastic hose at a hardware store that is long enough to go from the farthest bleeder screw to under the hood where your right there to keep the master cylinder full. Once you have bled that wheel tighten up the bleeder screw and replace the rubber cap. Then go to the next fartest wheel and work you way to the drivers side front wheel which is the closest one. I usually buy 2 quarts to do this job to make sure I dont run out. It usually takes a little more than a quart. If you get a cheap turkey baster you can suck the old fluid out of the master cylinder and replace it with new to save a little time. Also make sure you replace all the little rubber boots on the bleed screws when your done or the bleeder screw can get rusted and may break off the next time you do the job. If they are all dry rotted you can buy some little rubber vacuum caps at the auto parts store to replace them Their cheap. When your done pump ther brakes to make sure they work and thats it. Hope this helps.
How do I change the brake fluid in my car?
Depends on the make of car and how skilled a mechanic you are. If you are a bit unsure it might be best to get it done in a workshop. If you do not bleed the system adequately after changing the fluid, it can cause your brakes to fail without warning.
This can be done at home, however it is not a fun job. 20,000 miles sounds a little extreme and if the car is that new the dealer should do the service for free.
If you are having doubts, then take it and get it done, brakes on newer cars can be tricky and it is not something that you want to be wondering about when some old lady going 50 mph whips it out in front of you in the passing lane at 75 mph.
If you insist on doing it yourself, go to your local parts store and get a manual for the car you have. These manuals are invaluable once you start ripping into things. You will probably need a %26quot;speed bleeder%26quot; or a one man bleeder to.
I would think 25,000-30,000 would be more like it. This is probably best left to a garage, it's actually not that expensive to flush system. You would basically be bleeding the entire system out while adding fresh fluid until clean fluid comes out the bleeder nipple. There are kits you can get so you can do it alone or do it with a second person so one can pump pedal while other opens and closes nipple at wheel. There is a pattern to follow with regards to which wheel to do in what order and of course when to pump and when to release/close nipple. Do it wrong and you end up with a pedal that has no pressure and going to floor(NO BRAKES). You can remove as much as possible the old fluid from the reservoir first and adding your fresh fluid. This will reduce the amount of manual work to get that old fluid from system.
It can be done at home. You need a small wrench and a gallon of brake fluid. It is easiest to jack up the car and get all four wheels off. (put four drip pans under the brake assemblies. Then reach in and open all four bleeder screws. the brake fluid will run out. while the fluid is running open the master cyl and keep fresh fluid in the reservoir when you have reached the full gallon going thru the system shut the bleeder screws. Make sure the reservoir is full put the cap back on and check to make sure you have not gotten any air in the lines.
First time I ever heard of this requirement in an owner's manual. But I have done this on a couple of my cars to help with a soft brake pedal.
I used a turkey baster to remove all of the brake fluid from both master cylinder reservoirs. At this point, it is very important you do not move the brake pedal as you will get air in your brake lines and get a soft pedal.
Fill the brake reservoir with the correct type of fresh, clean brake fluid. Follow the same procedure of bleeding your brakes, starting with brake furthest from the master cylinder, usually the right rear. Bleed the lines until you get clear brake fluid from the bleeder. usually about 12 -14 ounces for the first line, about half that for the second line. The front brakes will take less as their lines are shorter.
During this, do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to become empty as you will get air in the lines and get a soft pedal.
Dispose of the used brake fluid at the recycler.
definitely take it to a pro.
if you are unsure at all brakes are not a good starting point for the backyard mechanic.....
Changing brakes on 96 Nissan Maxima?
Hi,
Is it hard changing the brake pads on a 96 nissan maxima?
I was told by a neighbor that whenever you push the piston ring back in the caliper you have to bleed the lines. Is this true?
The car has 185,000 miles on it. Is this considered high? and is there a certain grade of oil i should be using here? im in ohio if it helps.
thanks.
Changing brakes on 96 Nissan Maxima?
Slow down Dan did you find the meter fuse? How does the motor run? 10/30 wt for summer and 5/30wt for winter oil viscosity. When working on brakes It is a good idea not to drive dirty fluid back into the master cylinder while depressing the piston in open the bleeder screw. Rear caliper pistons need to be rotated while depressing so the piston retracts The pad has a pin that lines up with a notch in the caliper piston. Then bleed the brakes in proper order with clean fluid from a new bottle of dot #3 fluid. Procedure is right rear then left front Then Left rear finally right front. Good luck many Maxima make it to 300,000 miles so drive safely.
Is it hard changing the brake pads on a 96 nissan maxima?
I was told by a neighbor that whenever you push the piston ring back in the caliper you have to bleed the lines. Is this true?
The car has 185,000 miles on it. Is this considered high? and is there a certain grade of oil i should be using here? im in ohio if it helps.
thanks.
Changing brakes on 96 Nissan Maxima?
Slow down Dan did you find the meter fuse? How does the motor run? 10/30 wt for summer and 5/30wt for winter oil viscosity. When working on brakes It is a good idea not to drive dirty fluid back into the master cylinder while depressing the piston in open the bleeder screw. Rear caliper pistons need to be rotated while depressing so the piston retracts The pad has a pin that lines up with a notch in the caliper piston. Then bleed the brakes in proper order with clean fluid from a new bottle of dot #3 fluid. Procedure is right rear then left front Then Left rear finally right front. Good luck many Maxima make it to 300,000 miles so drive safely.
Why does my car shut off when i apply the brakes?
My car shuts off when i put on the brakes sometimes but everything else stays on. I have to put it in park and restsrt the car. It did this about a year ago and I put fuel cleaner in it and it hasdn't done it again until now but I put some cleaner in it and it is doing it. Does it sound like the fuel filter needs to be changed or maybe the fuel pump replaced or maybe the fuel lines? HElp Please!
Why does my car shut off when i apply the brakes?
Depending on the make and model or your car it sounds like teh fuel injectors could be gunked up. The carberator could be gunked up. Try using some gunk cleaner and fuel cleaner if that does not work then take it to a mechanic and he can flush out the system.
Why does my car shut off when i apply the brakes?
short term solution is to increase the idling speed -but have your fuel filter checked and caliberate your fuelpump - fuel line blocks can also present the same problem only your service people can tell
I agree with sheena. It definitely sounds like a vacuum leak. Listen under the hood for air escaping from any small lines.
Have to take it to a garage . It seems serious
sounds to me like a vaccum problem to the engine when you apply the brakes it robs as much vaccum as the engine is producing causing it to go into a load and stall. maybe check the brake booster for leaksi enjoy an extra barrier fish
Why does my car shut off when i apply the brakes?
Depending on the make and model or your car it sounds like teh fuel injectors could be gunked up. The carberator could be gunked up. Try using some gunk cleaner and fuel cleaner if that does not work then take it to a mechanic and he can flush out the system.
Why does my car shut off when i apply the brakes?
short term solution is to increase the idling speed -but have your fuel filter checked and caliberate your fuelpump - fuel line blocks can also present the same problem only your service people can tell
I agree with sheena. It definitely sounds like a vacuum leak. Listen under the hood for air escaping from any small lines.
Have to take it to a garage . It seems serious
sounds to me like a vaccum problem to the engine when you apply the brakes it robs as much vaccum as the engine is producing causing it to go into a load and stall. maybe check the brake booster for leaks
Changing pads and brakes on vectra?
is changing pads and brake discs on a vectra any harder than any other car? somenbody I spoke to who said they were ,something to do with the handbrake?
Changing pads and brakes on vectra?
Front and rear pads are easy to change and are just standard pistons so no need for winding them back.The handbrake is located inside the the rear discs which you have to remove the caliper mount if you want to service.If the handbrake was working ok then dont bother taking it off,Ive never seen the handbrake shoes worn on a vectra as they get so little use,except for once when the handbrake had been left on inadvertently.
Changing pads and brakes on vectra?
most every car made they work the same... once you knwo how to do one you got it.... they are a few that has a screw in type piston way of knowing they wil be notchs cut in the piston for the tool to fit....... sorry hand brakes are also about the same in how they work .. you might have to adjust them more or less after puting on new pads but still i dont see any problems if you have done any before
Buy a Haynes Manual (拢20) and stay alive.
hello. the frount pads and discs are normal to change. as for the back the pads are ok to change but you must srew the piston in with a special tool which you can get from any car shop for that vehicle. also if you push the piston in on the front make sure you clamp the flexi hose and undo the bleed nipple as if not you will turn the seals the wrong way round and then you have got big problems. good luck.
I don't know what year you have, or what tranny style (some parking brakes on large vehicles are located on the rear of the tranny instead of the rear wheels). The front disc brakes should be like any other disc brakes on a medium duty vehicle, though depending on the year you may need to replace grease seals and pack bearings. It may have disc or drum rear. If it is disc rear, then there were several styles of disc rear, and some can be a bit more difficult, but this is because of a floating rear axle and an inboard rotor (you need to pull the axle to get to the rotor). If you are advanced enough of a technician to be working on what is essentially a bus, you've got nothing to worry about. If you have worked only on small cars and nothing 1 ton or above, I suggest you leave at least the rear to a qualified medium duty tech if it has inboard rotors so you don't wind up damaging the differential.
make sure when you push the piston you do it slowly as on some vauxhall it turns the seals over
Changing pads and brakes on vectra?
Front and rear pads are easy to change and are just standard pistons so no need for winding them back.The handbrake is located inside the the rear discs which you have to remove the caliper mount if you want to service.If the handbrake was working ok then dont bother taking it off,Ive never seen the handbrake shoes worn on a vectra as they get so little use,except for once when the handbrake had been left on inadvertently.
Changing pads and brakes on vectra?
most every car made they work the same... once you knwo how to do one you got it.... they are a few that has a screw in type piston way of knowing they wil be notchs cut in the piston for the tool to fit....... sorry hand brakes are also about the same in how they work .. you might have to adjust them more or less after puting on new pads but still i dont see any problems if you have done any before
Buy a Haynes Manual (拢20) and stay alive.
hello. the frount pads and discs are normal to change. as for the back the pads are ok to change but you must srew the piston in with a special tool which you can get from any car shop for that vehicle. also if you push the piston in on the front make sure you clamp the flexi hose and undo the bleed nipple as if not you will turn the seals the wrong way round and then you have got big problems. good luck.
I don't know what year you have, or what tranny style (some parking brakes on large vehicles are located on the rear of the tranny instead of the rear wheels). The front disc brakes should be like any other disc brakes on a medium duty vehicle, though depending on the year you may need to replace grease seals and pack bearings. It may have disc or drum rear. If it is disc rear, then there were several styles of disc rear, and some can be a bit more difficult, but this is because of a floating rear axle and an inboard rotor (you need to pull the axle to get to the rotor). If you are advanced enough of a technician to be working on what is essentially a bus, you've got nothing to worry about. If you have worked only on small cars and nothing 1 ton or above, I suggest you leave at least the rear to a qualified medium duty tech if it has inboard rotors so you don't wind up damaging the differential.
make sure when you push the piston you do it slowly as on some vauxhall it turns the seals over
How to fix Brakes?
My brother bought new brake pads online and received them today. I asked him why hes not changing them and he said he doesn't have the tools to do it. I'm positive we do but I could be wrong. So anyone know what he is talking about. Another thing, how does one change a cars brakes, i think their disk brakes.
How to fix Brakes?
I recommend taking the car to a professional and have them do the work. Brakes are not something to take a chance on. Think of all the people who ride in the car and the others who encounter it on the road. Neither of you sound like you know how to properly do the work. To all those who are suggesting they do it themselves.....You aren't the one riding in the car wondering if the work was done right. Brakes can be easy...IF you know what you are doing. If not....leave them to the Pro's.
How to fix Brakes?
my friend, it is a very important thing about brake, please ask your mechanic, no idea what car is yours, one thind to note if that please do not let your new brake get into contact with oil.
Its real easy to change brake pads in a car, but it does very from car to car, you can pick up a book at any auto parts store that is a repair manual for a specific car. You can even get an online service for about 20 bucks a year via alldata that is searchable and has pictures.
This will also tell you exactly what you need to do the job.
If its an older car you can run into problems with calipers seizing or problems bleeding brakes, most repair shops can do this for you in less than an hour and on average that is 65 bucks where I live.
on disc brakes you
- lift the vehicle and secure it on jack stands
- remove the wheel
- remove the caliper (usually a 3/8 or 1/4 inch hex adapter)
- remove old pads
- use a c-clamp to compress piston
- apply an anit squeal lubricant to the back of new pads
-reinstall in opposite order
it is not necessary to bleed the brakes as long as you do not remove the hose from the caliper or open the bleeder valve
check this out:
http://mockster.net/how_to/brakes.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityour鈥?/a>
%26quot;Import guy%26quot; has the break down of the things you do when replacing these... Although if neither of you have ever tackled this project before I really suggest you ask your friends and locate one that can walk you through it, or take it to a shop to have it done. If you don't put things back together they way they are supposed to be the money saved would be completely lost if something went wrong and got into a wreck.
Still if you guys decide to go ahead with it on your own, take your time and be aware of what you are doing, also only take one side apart at a time so if you need reference to how it goes together you can always look at the other side.
it depends on what kind of car. usually you need a c-clamp, a ratchet and sockets, or sometimes they are allen or star bolts.
How to fix Brakes?
I recommend taking the car to a professional and have them do the work. Brakes are not something to take a chance on. Think of all the people who ride in the car and the others who encounter it on the road. Neither of you sound like you know how to properly do the work. To all those who are suggesting they do it themselves.....You aren't the one riding in the car wondering if the work was done right. Brakes can be easy...IF you know what you are doing. If not....leave them to the Pro's.
How to fix Brakes?
my friend, it is a very important thing about brake, please ask your mechanic, no idea what car is yours, one thind to note if that please do not let your new brake get into contact with oil.
Its real easy to change brake pads in a car, but it does very from car to car, you can pick up a book at any auto parts store that is a repair manual for a specific car. You can even get an online service for about 20 bucks a year via alldata that is searchable and has pictures.
This will also tell you exactly what you need to do the job.
If its an older car you can run into problems with calipers seizing or problems bleeding brakes, most repair shops can do this for you in less than an hour and on average that is 65 bucks where I live.
on disc brakes you
- lift the vehicle and secure it on jack stands
- remove the wheel
- remove the caliper (usually a 3/8 or 1/4 inch hex adapter)
- remove old pads
- use a c-clamp to compress piston
- apply an anit squeal lubricant to the back of new pads
-reinstall in opposite order
it is not necessary to bleed the brakes as long as you do not remove the hose from the caliper or open the bleeder valve
check this out:
http://mockster.net/how_to/brakes.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityour鈥?/a>
%26quot;Import guy%26quot; has the break down of the things you do when replacing these... Although if neither of you have ever tackled this project before I really suggest you ask your friends and locate one that can walk you through it, or take it to a shop to have it done. If you don't put things back together they way they are supposed to be the money saved would be completely lost if something went wrong and got into a wreck.
Still if you guys decide to go ahead with it on your own, take your time and be aware of what you are doing, also only take one side apart at a time so if you need reference to how it goes together you can always look at the other side.
it depends on what kind of car. usually you need a c-clamp, a ratchet and sockets, or sometimes they are allen or star bolts.
Should you change brake fluid when changing a transmission?
I had a new transmission put in my car, a week later my brake light comes on and they tell me someone put power steering fluid in my brakes. Now I need a new brake system.
Should you change brake fluid when changing a transmission?
You dont need brake fluid
You need a new mechanic.
Should you change brake fluid when changing a transmission?
sue the dang mechanic!
Either you need to do some reading in your car manual or else find a mechanic who knows what fluid goes where. Only an idiot would do that.
The two systems are independent of each other.
So changing a transmission doesn't necessarily mean you need to change your brakes/brake fluid.
However if it's been contaminated with another fluid, and someone really put power steering fluid in the brake system, yes you need to have your brake system flushed completely out.
they are not connected. so no.
Should you change brake fluid when changing a transmission?
You dont need brake fluid
You need a new mechanic.
Should you change brake fluid when changing a transmission?
sue the dang mechanic!
Either you need to do some reading in your car manual or else find a mechanic who knows what fluid goes where. Only an idiot would do that.
The two systems are independent of each other.
So changing a transmission doesn't necessarily mean you need to change your brakes/brake fluid.
However if it's been contaminated with another fluid, and someone really put power steering fluid in the brake system, yes you need to have your brake system flushed completely out.
they are not connected. so no.
How long do front brakes last on a 2005 ford focus?
I changed the brakes on my car at 30000 miles and i am at 43000 miles now, and the service technician said i need new brakes on my front wheels. Is this normal? I dont drive abnormal, i havent went on any long trips since installing the new brakes? What gives????
How long do front brakes last on a 2005 ford focus?
Maybe the first brake job had a problem with it that caused the friction pads to wear abnormally. Then, the pads may be worn thin at only one corner or edge of the surface, but you still have to replace them. So I would ask the technician if the pads show normal uniform wear and if so, why have you only gotten 13,000 miles on them when you got 30,000 miles on the OEM pads. Not all pads are the same quality and your car probably requires %26quot;semi metallic%26quot; type pads which are more expensive. They may have installed a cheaper set of pads on the first brake job. The safest thing to do is have the Ford dealer replace the pads.
PS, It isn't the long trips that wears the brakes as much as short stop and go driving because your not using the brakes as much on the open highway.
How long do front brakes last on a 2005 ford focus?
it depends on your driving conditions %26amp; habits. also what quality
of brakes were installed.
It depends on your drive... but I work for auto dealers maintenance group.. and you should take your car in every 3k miles for a check up!
A regular service may sound costly... but preventative maintenance is a lot cheaper.. and save your car and you headaches.
average brake life is 15-20000 miles, can change drasticlly depending on driving habits/style. if you drive all highway milles you will get more life as you are driving farther and stopping less if you do a lot of stop and go you will get less because you are driving shorter distances and braking more often. No offense but the focus is a lower end vehicle and is built with low cost parts, that means less brake pad as well, also if you think you are not getting the life you should still check hydrolic issues like the pistons and hoses, they can make the parts work harder as can worn shocks and struts.
How long do front brakes last on a 2005 ford focus?
Maybe the first brake job had a problem with it that caused the friction pads to wear abnormally. Then, the pads may be worn thin at only one corner or edge of the surface, but you still have to replace them. So I would ask the technician if the pads show normal uniform wear and if so, why have you only gotten 13,000 miles on them when you got 30,000 miles on the OEM pads. Not all pads are the same quality and your car probably requires %26quot;semi metallic%26quot; type pads which are more expensive. They may have installed a cheaper set of pads on the first brake job. The safest thing to do is have the Ford dealer replace the pads.
PS, It isn't the long trips that wears the brakes as much as short stop and go driving because your not using the brakes as much on the open highway.
How long do front brakes last on a 2005 ford focus?
it depends on your driving conditions %26amp; habits. also what quality
of brakes were installed.
It depends on your drive... but I work for auto dealers maintenance group.. and you should take your car in every 3k miles for a check up!
A regular service may sound costly... but preventative maintenance is a lot cheaper.. and save your car and you headaches.
average brake life is 15-20000 miles, can change drasticlly depending on driving habits/style. if you drive all highway milles you will get more life as you are driving farther and stopping less if you do a lot of stop and go you will get less because you are driving shorter distances and braking more often. No offense but the focus is a lower end vehicle and is built with low cost parts, that means less brake pad as well, also if you think you are not getting the life you should still check hydrolic issues like the pistons and hoses, they can make the parts work harder as can worn shocks and struts.
Subscribe to:
Posts
(Atom)