Problem after changing brakes?
You should also bleed your master cylinder. Remember when bleeding brakes always start with wheel furthest from the master cylinder working towards the closest
Problem after changing brakes?
Bleed your brakes again.
There is still air in the system.
ADDED:
Or, adjust the slack out of the rear brake shoes so they %26quot;just%26quot; touch the drums.
sounds like you still got air in the brake system.
you have air in the lines. bleed each side individually and at the master cylinder.
Sounds to me like theres air in the master cylinder, or maybe its going bad. Thats usually a sign of a bad master cylinder if they get mushy when you put it in gear. Try re-bleeding them. Start with the wheels FARTHEST from the master cylinder, and work to the closest (PR/DR/PF/DF) and see what happens. If that doesnt work, check the master to see if it has a bleeder valve, you might have to bleed it too.
Answer to your edit: Use 2 people. Pump the brakes and hold the pedal to the floor, while you hold it down, 2nd person opens the bleeder valve at the wheel to release the air. Close the valve, and repeat the process until no air is coming out of the bleeder valve. Do this to all the wheels as I described above.
as long as your vehicle is not a diesel you could have a vacuum brake booster with a check valve that could be disfunctional .did your master cylinder leak or was it replaced?if it was it will need bench bleeding .It was probably a brake bleeding issue however in the master cylinder or elsewhere throughout the hydraulic circuit .you could find out how to bleed your master cylinder on autozone.com by looking up your master cylinder after entering your vehicle and becoming a member then on the right hand side of the screen click on repair guides but for the rest of the circuit you would start at the bleeder screw of the wheel closest to the master cylinder and then work your way to the next closest in front then the rear that is closest to the master cylinder and ultimately the farthest away bleeder screw.the way that i have found bleeds brakes the best is to get 2 bottles of brake fluid and overfill the master cylinder then get a pieces of 1/8%26quot; inner diameter tubing for 40 cents from the local hardware about 18 inches long ,with a cigarette lighter heat one end to force it to tightly fit over any bleeder screw then put the other end into a half bottle of brake fluid like a drinking straw ensuring that the end is fully submerged then open the bleeder screw and simply pump the pedal steadily then hold until it drops and refill master cylinder and go under to see all of the bubbles if you want to but usually twice is enough to repeat these steps on each wheel in order unless you you have a short in your fluid circuitry.ok good luck hope this helps you!
U have air in the brake lines also the reason there is pressure on the pedal when its turned off is that it has power brakes and it has a booster and it uses vacuum air to relieve the pressure and make it easy to press the brake so when u turn the car off it has no more vacuum so the pedal is hard. When u bleed the brake again this is how u should do it trust me im very experienced first u need 2 people.Next open the bleeder the press the brake pedal to the floor and hold until u tighten the bleeder then pump the brakes up again and repeat. This will bleed the brakes faster and get out more air than the other way. DON'T bleed it this way u can but its a waist of time. First tighten bleeders then pump them up and hold. While pressing the pedal down loosen the bleeder when pedal hits the floor tighten then repeat. That is how some people do it but it sometimes want get all the air out and u waist allot of time. ALSO on some model cars they have a equalizer and u will have to bleed them like this. Start at the front left wheel then go to the rear right wheel then right front wheel then left rear wheel. That is the only way to bleed it if it has a equalizer. I hope this helps. Good Luck
